Author Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build (Read 350988 times)

MiGhost · « **Reply #25 on:** September 05, 2014, 03:53:37 PM »

CSMNL is showing the cam chain tensioner, and guide still available.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k3-four-1977-usa_model1015/partslist/E++05.html#results

Bootsey · « **Reply #26 on:** September 05, 2014, 04:09:31 PM »

David Silvers has the cam chain guides. They also have the primary chain for a bit cheaper than that, but too late I assume

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #27 on:** September 05, 2014, 04:30:01 PM »

Thanks guys, yeah, Bootsey, it's too late. Oh well. I looked for a long time but don't know who David Silvers is.

And thanks MiGhost, I see that but I'm not sure I really need one yet. If I do, hopefully it'll still be available. Any one else with a 550...DON'T BUY THAT ONE! Haha

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1978 Honda CB550K

MickB · « **Reply #28 on:** September 05, 2014, 04:33:54 PM »

Dave sometimes it's worth checking with your Honda dealer, I did and the chains were available and cheaper.
Just a novice mistake (I made plenty), you won't make again.

Bootsey · « **Reply #29 on:** September 05, 2014, 06:08:17 PM »

http://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB550K-1978-USA/

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #30 on:** September 06, 2014, 05:30:15 AM »

I didn't even think of checking the dealer. I usually avoided them because at least with cars they tend to be more expensive. Thanks Mick, there'll be many more novice mistakes to come. Hopefully none (or few) that cause serious problems.

And thanks Bootsey, I could have saved around $60. If I need to replace the tensioner I see that they have it. I'm definitely bookmarking this site.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #31 on:** September 13, 2014, 09:01:57 AM »

Hey guys, I'm starting the tear down of the motor. I can't seem to get the valve cover off. It seems there are 2 dowel pins in the back of the motor that are not coming loose.

Was I supposed to turn the motor to top dead center or some other magic place for the tappets to all be loose? The Clymer doesn't say anything about that. All are loose except the exhaust for cylinder 1. And now the valve cover is coming up but it's not lifting off the rear. All bolts are out.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #32 on:** September 13, 2014, 09:12:23 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 13, 2014, 09:09:28 AM

To confirm: you've also released all the tension of the tappets first?

It's easiest to tap gently some wooden wedges in to help persuade the cover off when they get stuck on the dowel pins.

Yup, I backed the tappet screws almost all the way out and am using rubber bands to keep them elevated and off the valve stems. But still, that one is still a little tight on the valve...I guess only with the weight of the valve cover resting on it.

I'll try the wood, I have some small shims lying around.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #33 on:** September 13, 2014, 09:32:54 AM »

Seems to be really stuck. Are these dowel pins notorious for being this difficult to get off? Of all videos and posts I've seen I haven't come across anyone who was really complaining about these. There aren't any "secret bolts" anywhere, right?

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #34 on:** September 13, 2014, 10:03:05 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 13, 2014, 09:52:20 AM

Try gently rotating the crank to insure the tappets aren't binding on the valve stems too. #1&#4 exhaust look to be perhaps a bit tight still.

Now all 8 tappets are loose. That seemed to help that. But these dowel pins are still binding. PB blaster has been sitting in the holes for about 20 minutes. I'm lightly rapping on the cover with a rubber mallet. I don't want to pry one side off too much and then have the dowel pins skewed which would make them grab more. I have wood shims in there but it doesn't seem to be budging.

It's funny, about 6 times I have checked and rechecked that I took out all the bolts, they're definitely all out, haha.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #35 on:** September 13, 2014, 10:31:53 AM »

Yeah that's what I'm trying to do. I've just been braking shims. If I tap one in it doesn't lift the rest of the edge to get the next one in. It just brakes off. I'm still looking for that secret bolt that I missed, ha.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #36 on:** September 13, 2014, 10:59:53 AM »

Ok, got it. I had to put shims by the cam ends are and lightly rap on the exhaust side...using the shims as a fulcrum. It came right off.

On to the head.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #37 on:** September 13, 2014, 12:19:12 PM »

Yup, that was step something or other in the Clymer. Beheaded and now for the jugs. The head came off really easily...there are little slots on the side that look like they're for a screw driver. I used those to help pry it off and it was butter.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #38 on:** September 13, 2014, 12:20:03 PM »

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #39 on:** September 13, 2014, 01:13:01 PM »

So my cam shaft bearing surfaces look worn. The cam feels smooth but there's this pattern on pretty much all the rotating round part. Not the lobes. Are these things toast?

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #40 on:** September 13, 2014, 02:37:15 PM »

The manual says to remove the rotor with a puller. I've been reading I can use a longer nut of the same size/thread pitch. But do I really need to remove this? It looks like the cases will separate without this coming off. I'm saying this because this nut is really hard to get off. I wish I had an air or electric impact gun. All I have are hand tools, beer and PB blaster.

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1978 Honda CB550K

dave500 · « **Reply #41 on:** September 13, 2014, 03:00:49 PM »

the cam bearing journals look ok,so do the lobes.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #42 on:** September 13, 2014, 03:23:16 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on September 13, 2014, 03:00:49 PM

the cam bearing journals look ok,so do the lobes.

Great, haha. That saves me a lot. Even though on one of the journals I feel texture/maybe scratches with my nail?

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1978 Honda CB550K

Bootsey · « **Reply #43 on:** September 13, 2014, 04:06:44 PM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on September 13, 2014, 02:37:15 PM

The manual says to remove the rotor with a puller. I've been reading I can use a longer nut of the same size/thread pitch. But do I really need to remove this? It looks like the cases will separate without this coming off. I'm saying this because this nut is really hard to get off. I wish I had an air or electric impact gun. All I have are hand tools, beer and PB blaster.

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1978 Honda CB550K

You are correct, you can separate the cases with rotor on. If you want to change the main seals, you need to take it off though. If you can hold the crank from spinning, you can put a socket and bar on the bolt shown in the picture, and rap the bar, with a rubber mallet to get that bolt out.
Then to get the rotor off, grab yourself a M16 x 1.5 bolt, and a rubber mallet, tighten the bolt, give it a rap with the hammer. Repeat, and the rotor will just pop off.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #44 on:** September 13, 2014, 04:37:52 PM »

Thanks Bootsey, not sure if I want to change the main seals. Don't know if that came with my gasket set. Maybe I'll cross that road later.

In the mean time, I broke one screw on the clutch cover and had to drill another out. Super stripped. The cover is/was almost impossible to remove. Looked all over the forum and tried all that a stuff. So instead I just tapped one of the cover holes with an M8 1.25 tap and threaded in a bolt. As I tighten it the cover is slowly being pulled off (but first in the hole I put a long nail so the bolt has something to push off of.) Seems to work very well.

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1978 Honda CB550K

Bootsey · « **Reply #45 on:** September 13, 2014, 06:39:32 PM »

Nice idea with the cover. I had a bit of trouble getting my clutch cover off too, it was pretty baked on there. Took a fair bit of persuasion from the rubber mallet.

Seals don't cost too much, might be worth it, if you cracking the cases anyway. You can buy them individually, or get a kit like this. You can probably find it cheaper somewhere too.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CB550-CB550F-Engine-Oil-Seal-Kit-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-550-Four-/380988988460?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b4b69c2c&_uhb=1

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #46 on:** September 13, 2014, 06:49:26 PM »

Hmm, decisions decisions. I'll check it out tomorrow morning when I get back out there. I'll probably end up doing it because...when will the next time be when I'm in here. I'd hate to have it start leaking next season and think...crap, should have just replaced that.

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1978 Honda CB550K

dave500 · « **Reply #47 on:** September 13, 2014, 07:31:30 PM »

its mostly those steel alignment dowels that rust and cause covers to be hard to remove.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #48 on:** September 13, 2014, 08:00:56 PM »

Yeah, when ever I expose the dowels they're all pretty rusted up.

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1978 Honda CB550K

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #49 on:** September 14, 2014, 08:00:26 AM »

Clutch: Just doing some inspection while I have it out. The manual says to measure the thickness of the friction plate...singular. It means friction plateS, right? The main large one on the end is about 3.5mm and the other 6 are about 2.6mm in thickness. The spec minimum is 3.0mm. I just want to make sure I'm doing the right measurements. Looks like I need new friction plates.

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1978 Honda CB550K

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Author Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build (Read 350988 times)