Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[DaveBarbier]

I'm looking through my connectors and I see quite a few have corrosion already. I crimped and soldered these connections. I'm thinking I may have not completely burned off all the flux and that could be causing corrosion. I probably should have bought the crimper and just crimped as others have recommended. Any good way of cleaning these things? Small brass brush and electric cleaner?

Plus one on the double crimp tool. According to Hondaman, the double crimp is a "gas tight" connection and is corrosion resistant due to the fact that the connection is so tight that corrosive elements can't even get into the crimp:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494


I can refurbish the entire stock harness in about two weeks, working evenings and weekends:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

Ok, that crimp is nice. I'll be doing this too.

Thanks

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Dave,

Are you going to re-wire the bike before or after the 650 engine swap?

[DaveBarbier]

Dave,

Are you going to re-wire the bike before or after the 650 engine swap?

Before. Want to get it all buttoned up before the engine goes in. It deserves some nice new wiring!

By the way, I ordered the 674cc kit .

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Nice. My engine is fully diassembled. The head and cylinders are about to go to blasting and the the machinist.

Trying to find a new output shift seal.

[calj737]

These are the ones I use:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/motogadget/products/m-switch-3-push-button-housing-7-8-black-black

If you have smaller hands, these are quite nice too:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/motogadget/products/motogadget-m-switch-mini-push-button-housing-7-8-black
And those are "pre-wired" form the buttons.

It's hard to find the stock striped colors, so I use solid versions of the stock colors as much as I can. If you use the m-button, I'd suggest following the MotoG color scheme then. And last knock against the m-button, it's not as a clean to use it with clip-ons. You wiring will leave the bars thru the end then want to turn around the steering neck, and run under the tank to the backbone to connect to the m-button. There, all the wires will cross up and over the backbone to connect, then a single wire from the m-button to the m-unit. Problem is, the m-button is hanging out with all the wires connections.

Or, you put the m-button in the headlight bucket, and the wiring exits handle bars and turns into the bucket, then a single wire back out. (This is a ton less clean). I'm telling you, for simplicity, for clean looks, and ease of connections, ditch the button. Save that money and spend it on something that actually makes your bike run better, faster or jump higher.

There is also a potential electrical interference with the m-button if you are not using resistor spark plug wires. The 650 is a CDI if I'm correct, so this is something to plan for.

The m-switch I linked at the top has another button on the "front" of that housing for the 3rd function. I use it as a my START, then the right lower is my Turn R, right top is my menu (for a MotoG gauge). Left side is front Horn, top is HI/Lo and lower is Turn L. So you can either get a 3 button and a 2, or have the spare function on yours in case you ever swap to an electronic gauge.

You send me a detailed list of which components, and I'll send you a colored diagram back, and I'll do it in stock colors so the next owner of your bike can decipher the wiring from the stock diagram.

[DaveBarbier]

Nice. My engine is fully diassembled. The head and cylinders are about to go to blasting and the the machinist.

Trying to find a new output shift seal.

Are these hard to find? I haven't even looked for seals yet. Looks like we're pretty much at the same stages.

[70CB750]

Nice. My engine is fully diassembled. The head and cylinders are about to go to blasting and the the machinist.

Trying to find a new output shift seal.

Are these hard to find? I haven't even looked for seals yet. Looks like we're pretty much at the same stages.

Plenty of places carry those:

http://www.cb750supply.com/products/4/engine

25x62x7 is the size I believe.

[DaveBarbier]

These are the ones I use:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/motogadget/products/m-switch-3-push-button-housing-7-8-black-black

If you have smaller hands, these are quite nice too:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/motogadget/products/motogadget-m-switch-mini-push-button-housing-7-8-black
And those are "pre-wired" form the buttons.

It's hard to find the stock striped colors, so I use solid versions of the stock colors as much as I can. If you use the m-button, I'd suggest following the MotoG color scheme then. And last knock against the m-button, it's not as a clean to use it with clip-ons. You wiring will leave the bars thru the end then want to turn around the steering neck, and run under the tank to the backbone to connect to the m-button. There, all the wires will cross up and over the backbone to connect, then a single wire from the m-button to the m-unit. Problem is, the m-button is hanging out with all the wires connections.

Or, you put the m-button in the headlight bucket, and the wiring exits handle bars and turns into the bucket, then a single wire back out. (This is a ton less clean). I'm telling you, for simplicity, for clean looks, and ease of connections, ditch the button. Save that money and spend it on something that actually makes your bike run better, faster or jump higher.

There is also a potential electrical interference with the m-button if you are not using resistor spark plug wires. The 650 is a CDI if I'm correct, so this is something to plan for.

The m-switch I linked at the top has another button on the "front" of that housing for the 3rd function. I use it as a my START, then the right lower is my Turn R, right top is my menu (for a MotoG gauge). Left side is front Horn, top is HI/Lo and lower is Turn L. So you can either get a 3 button and a 2, or have the spare function on yours in case you ever swap to an electronic gauge.

You send me a detailed list of which components, and I'll send you a colored diagram back, and I'll do it in stock colors so the next owner of your bike can decipher the wiring from the stock diagram.

Yeah, I don't feel like spending close to $300 on switches. They're beautiful, though. But sh*t, the more I think about it the easier I bet it'll be. Plus, I can't find a good alternative. Unless I go with the typical big block plastic switches. Ugh...I'll return to this later.

OK OK, no m-button! Haha, I see what you're saying with interference and cleanliness. That's out!

I couldn't find the wire on McMaster that you were talking about. I just see white, black and red for automotive. Wire Barn has a bundle of GXL wire in 10 colors, 25 ft of each wire. Something like $30. But I do want to get 18 and 22awg like you mentioned for ease of routing. Is the McMaster wire good quality or the same as what you'd buy in a basic auto parts store? Want to link me to it?

Awesome, I'll write up the components for the diagram. Thanks brother!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Nice. My engine is fully diassembled. The head and cylinders are about to go to blasting and the the machinist.

Trying to find a new output shift seal.

Are these hard to find? I haven't even looked for seals yet. Looks like we're pretty much at the same stages.

Plenty of places carry those:

http://www.cb750supply.com/products/4/engine

25x62x7 is the size I believe.

No. It is a different size than any other CB model. Waiting to hear back from Western Hills Honda.

91205-426-013   OIL SEAL (36X57X13)      

[calj737]

Here's the 22awg I use:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=ygfnim
And the 18awg
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=ygfogh

[DaveBarbier]

Here's the 22awg I use:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=ygfnim
And the 18awg
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=ygfogh

Thanks, the link doesn't actually bring me to a specific wire, just the overall wire page. But no worries, WireBarn.com seems to have a good deal on good quality wire. I'll get 18GXL and 22TXL and I should be good to go. But for some circuits would it be better to use a thicker gauge or is 18 sufficient?

[calj737]

for the battery POS to solenoid, nothing smaller than 10awg, preferrably 6awg. I use 10AWG for new GROUND cable to frame. OR, you can pry open the factory lug connector on the stock cables, cut the cable shorter (if needed) then tin and close the lug back on it. This gets you into cleaner cable with no corrosion at the ends. Solenoid to STARTER is the same too.

[DaveBarbier]

for the battery POS to solenoid, nothing smaller than 10awg, preferrably 6awg. I use 10AWG for new GROUND cable to frame. OR, you can pry open the factory lug connector on the stock cables, cut the cable shorter (if needed) then tin and close the lug back on it. This gets you into cleaner cable with no corrosion at the ends. Solenoid to STARTER is the same too.

Ok, cool. I have a bunch of good 6awg black and red wire.

[DaveBarbier]

Just moved the sensing wire up by the key switch. Voltage dropped from 14.8 but only to about 14.74. Not as big of a drop as I was hoping but a bit better...hoping that along with the fixing of the short by the key will remedy my headlight blowing issue. Going for a ride now.

[DaveBarbier]

Light is still good but I noticed even more of this blue stuff right where the bulb connects to. It's for the white wire which I think is the low beam wire. 


Thoughts?

[DaveBarbier]

Ok, blew out in about 5 minutes, haha. I have an aftermarket three prong plug that I got with one of my headlights. I'm going to throw that in and see if anything changes. Maybe the plug and soldered connections there are dirty and have more resistance? Maybe battery is still over charging too. I remember a piece of paper that the Rick's Reg/Rec came with that said what voltage parameters it was set to. I thought I took a picture of it but I may have just thrown it out without doing so. I looked on their website but couldn't find that info. Anyone know?

[calj737]

More likely that the headlight is drawing too much voltage for the wire feeding it. That would be my suspicion. What are the specs on the headlight current draw?

[DaveBarbier]

More likely that the headlight is drawing too much voltage for the wire feeding it. That would be my suspicion. What are the specs on the headlight current draw?

You mean the bulb specs or the bucket itself? Now, I mentioned earlier that I'm pretty sure this started happening after I changed to a smaller bucket. Going from a stock size metal bucket to a 6.5".

This is the headlight I am currently running. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161529059977&globalID=EBAY-US

[calj737]

Looking for the bulb wattage specs. Bucket doesn't matter to fuses 

[madmtnmotors]

Per the ad it's a 55/60 watt H4 HID bulb. I think this taxes the 550 electrical system.

[calj737]

Per the ad it's a 55/60 watt H4 HID bulb. I think this taxes the 550 electrical system.

It's the upper end sure, but I'd be more concerned about the quality of the wiring (too small a gauge?) or a cheap connector. I've never bought anything with the name Emgo on it that wasn't an absolute piece of CR@P!

If you're blowing fuses, your over-drawing the fuse. What size fuse are you running for the head light? And have you made any mods up front where the Head light circuit is also powering something new/extra?

[DaveBarbier]

Looking for the bulb wattage specs. Bucket doesn't matter to fuses 

All the bulbs that have blown for me are 60/55w. That's all that I've used in this bike. But I just read in my wiring diagram that the stock bulb is 50/40...I thought that it used an H4 bulb stock and that all H4s were 60/55w? Ok, so what does this mean? If you put a 6 volt bulb in a 12 volt system then it'll glow very bright and quickly burn up. But if I use a bulb that requires higher wattage then it'll create more heat, right? And possibly melt wires? But then why would the bulb blow...I just don't have enough of a basic understanding of electrical systems.

[calj737]

It means you're pulling too much current thru the system for its designed amperage, hence you're blowing fuses/bulbs. I'd suggest grabbing the H4 LED bulb from CognitoMoto (~$65). It uses 12w/18w lo to hi. It's unreal bright too! That's a lot less draw on the charging system, easier on the fuses, and still brighter.

Once you swap to the M-unit, this fuse/charging issue goes away. The light is separated into 2 circuits: LO and HI and each are independently fused. But I'd still encourage the LED bulb.

[DaveBarbier]

Per the ad it's a 55/60 watt H4 HID bulb. I think this taxes the 550 electrical system.

It's the upper end sure, but I'd be more concerned about the quality of the wiring (too small a gauge?) or a cheap connector. I've never bought anything with the name Emgo on it that wasn't an absolute piece of CR@P!

If you're blowing fuses, your over-drawing the fuse. What size fuse are you running for the head light? And have you made any mods up front where the Head light circuit is also powering something new/extra?

Well, I'm not blowing fuses. Just the low beam is burning up. Haven't blown a headlight fuse yet. I'm sure if I kept the high on that would blow too. It's a 7.5 amp blade fuse. I don't think they come in just 7 amp which the original glass fuse was.

No mods, the headlight circuit isn't powering anything else...there is a wire tapped into the high beam connector for the LED high beam indicator, though, but that's stock.

I've read a bit of the 60/55 watt bulbs taxing the system, but then it would melt wires or blow fuses, not blow the bulb, right?

[madmtnmotors]

Test the wiring harness by bypassing it:

>Get a new bulb
>Get an inline fuse
>Get enough 18ga wire to wire the new bulb straight from the battery using the inline fuse at the battery connection.
>Get an on/off toggle switch. You can get a three position if you want (hi/lo/off) but it's more wiring. You are only testing here, so if you just use a two position (on/off) then wire the low beam first and ride it. Once you're satisfied that it won't blow then wire the high beam through the switch and ride it some more.

If you can't get it to blow then you need to start checking switches and connections. Over amping from excessive resistance can manifest itself in many different ways with many different symtoms (i.e. blown fuses, melted wires, melted connectors, etc.)


http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494