Topic: Patina Hyena - 550/650 674cc Hybrid Cafe Build

[calj737]

vapor blasting is a "peened" finish so despite the lustre, it should be equally resistant to staining. And both finishes should clean equally well.

[DaveBarbier]

vapor blasting is a "peened" finish so despite the lustre, it should be equally resistant to staining. And both finishes should clean equally well.

Haha, ok then, looks like I'm good to go!

[DaveBarbier]

My valve/cam cover was blasted with the rockers and shafts in place. I'm thinking I want to remove them to clean debris and such, but they're a real pain to remove. It's mainly the pins holding the rocker shafts which is the hardest part. I've read about people cracking the cover while trying to remove them using heat and hammers.

How safe is using a hydraulic press? Do you think I should remove them even though they all slide well and there doesn't seem to be any grit in there from blasting?

[MRieck]

My valve/cam cover was blasted with the rockers and shafts in place. I'm thinking I want to remove them to clean debris and such, but they're a real pain to remove. It's mainly the pins holding the rocker shafts which is the hardest part. I've read about people cracking the cover while trying to remove them using heat and hammers.

How safe is using a hydraulic press? Do you think I should remove them even though they all slide well and there doesn't seem to be any grit in there from blasting?

I use a press Dave. Just support the piece properly. They come out with a "bang"......be prepared.

[DaveBarbier]

My valve/cam cover was blasted with the rockers and shafts in place. I'm thinking I want to remove them to clean debris and such, but they're a real pain to remove. It's mainly the pins holding the rocker shafts which is the hardest part. I've read about people cracking the cover while trying to remove them using heat and hammers.

How safe is using a hydraulic press? Do you think I should remove them even though they all slide well and there doesn't seem to be any grit in there from blasting?

I use a press Dave. Just support the piece properly. They come out with a "bang"......be prepared.

Haha, sounds fun. I'll give it a shot.

[DaveBarbier]

Just got the carbs from Godffery's Garage. CR26 Specials. I love new carbs. Also got K&N pods and the remote idle adjuster. Intake and exhaust is now taken care of, yay!

[calj737]

Check for fitment with your stock petcock, Dave.

[DaveBarbier]

Check for fitment with your stock petcock, Dave.

Yeah, that's something I need to do. I'll have to do some measurements but it seems like I won't really know the exact placement until I can get the 650 in the frame and see how/where the carbs sit. I don't yet know the length of the rubbers to the head or exactly how the top end sits in the 550 frame.

But because the 550 has a longer intake tract than the 650 and the petcock sits between the head and carbs, I suspect there will be interference issues.

[Blackfin5]

Dave.  I have the same CR26 set up from Godfrey.  I can assure you that the stock petcock, as Cal infers, is too small for the fuel line needed for the CR26s.  I stuck with stock, but had to rig a sleeve in order for it to fit the larger ID hose.  My first attempts leaked.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

On my hybrid 550 frame/650 engine build, I am anticipating interference issues -- note I am also using a 750F tank.  I am using a Pingle petcock and relocating it.

Dave, I think regardless of the tank difference, you will likely have interference issues.  I think Kevin's or Jim's re-route is the solution.

[DaveBarbier]

I was looking into Pingle petcocks a few months ago when I had a issue which felt like fuel delivery (it ended up being a bad condenser). Of the one's I saw they were pretty expensive, but I could see what Blackfin says being an issue.

I'll just play it by ear and see what needs to be done.

Don, I don't think I'm familiar with Kevin or Jim and their re-route solution. Can you link something? For yours do you mean that you'll end up welding a new bung?

[Retro Rocket]

On my hybrid 550 frame/650 engine build, I am anticipating interference issues -- note I am also using a 750F tank.  I am using a Pingle petcock and relocating it.

Dave, I think regardless of the tank difference, you will likely have interference issues.  I think Kevin's or Jim's re-route is the solution.

Don, do you know if the pingles fit the F0/F1 tanks...?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The Pingle I have does not fit the F0/F1 bung.  I am having it relocated to clear the valve cover and carburetors.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I was looking into Pingle petcocks a few months ago when I had a issue which felt like fuel delivery (it ended up being a bad condenser). Of the one's I saw they were pretty expensive, but I could see what Blackfin says being an issue.

I'll just play it by ear and see what needs to be done.

Don, I don't think I'm familiar with Kevin or Jim and their re-route solution. Can you link something? For yours do you mean that you'll end up welding a new bung?

Jim's aka FunJimmy's solution is shown above.  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,27159.0.html
Kevin aka Blackfin F1 Blaster Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,131956.0.html

[Retro Rocket]

The Pingle I have does not fit the F0/F1 bung.  I am having it relocated to clear the valve cover and carburetors.

I thought so....

[calj737]

I was also referencing that he's using a 650 motor, which the intakes are different too, right?

[DaveBarbier]

I was looking into Pingle petcocks a few months ago when I had a issue which felt like fuel delivery (it ended up being a bad condenser). Of the one's I saw they were pretty expensive, but I could see what Blackfin says being an issue.

I'll just play it by ear and see what needs to be done.

Don, I don't think I'm familiar with Kevin or Jim and their re-route solution. Can you link something? For yours do you mean that you'll end up welding a new bung?

Jim's aka FunJimmy's solution is shown above.  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,27159.0.html
Kevin aka Blackfin F1 Blaster Build http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,131956.0.html

Thanks Don. After seeing those I'm not too concerned. Yeah, I'll probably have to alter something somehow but there's a couple of routes I could take.

[Blackfin5]

I ended up using a smaller bodied petcock and slightly shimmed the front tank mounts to move the tank off the carbs about 1/8th in.

[DaveBarbier]

Just picked up an old (probably late 50's or early 60's) little Craftsman 618 lathe. It's pretty sweet and in great shape. Those of you with lathes, is a 6x18 too small for motorcycle work? What's the average size of work you have chucked in there?



Next up is either a milling attachment or a standalone mill/drill press. Fun times.

[70CB750]

That is sweet.

You will be able to do a lot for your bike when you have the tooling 

I have Logan 210, pretty much the same size.  Can't imagine life without it anymore.  Of course I would take bigger lathe but I miss metric threading more than size.

[DaveBarbier]

That Logan looks like a really nice machine, but I have no idea what I'm talking about, haha. This 618 is meant to cut standard threads but apparently with changing the gears out you can cut metric threads. It's not really a metric thread but it's close enough. For a short piece they say there's no issue but the longer you go the more off it is. Like nothing longer than 1 foot of threads which isn't a problem for me.

[calj737]

...but the longer you go the more off it is.

True of any machine. Rigidity is key. And the closer to the headstock you work, the more rigid your part is, the better the part machines. If you were to cut a long piece of rod with threads, expose only enough of the rod to cut threads, leaving the extra in the headstock (I'm assuming you can load from the backside with that dude?).

And you can still cut metric threads with that. But not all the way. Simply use an SAE pitch as close as possible to "rough" your threads (maybe 2-3 passes only), then switch to a metric die with the correct pitch. That way, your threads are square to the rod, and the die is perfectly aligned/centered on the rod.

[DaveBarbier]

Ah, I didn't think of going partial threading and then finish with a die. I like that. I'm not sure if I can load from the rear, I think so, but I have to verify that. It came with the original manual and exploded view with part numbers, so that's awesome.

And I've been reading and watching about how important rigidity is. Not only for the finish and accuracy of the piece you're turning, but for the reliability of the lathe.

It's a whole new world I've entered into, it's insane.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Prepare for custom parts orders.

[DaveBarbier]

Prepare for custom parts orders.

Now taking orders for small chips and swirls of metal, various sizes.