Topic: Rod Bolts?

[timbo750]

I have been looking for some aftermarket Rod Bolts and no one seems to sell them for the stock rods. am I to assume then that the standard bolts are sufficient and don't need replacing? I have noticed that some people replace them with factory Honda units saying that you can only re-torque them 1 or 2 times. as I don't know what has been done to the engine in the past would I be correct in assuming that I should get new bolts.

[Retro Rocket]

The 750 F2-F3 rod bolts are stronger than the K model bolts Tim, ARP in the states have heavy duty rod bolts for the 750 as well but they are not cheap.. I think the F2-F3 rod bolts can still be bought from Honda, someone here  may confirm that for you, The F2-3 rod bolts are a mild performance enhancement for the 750 up to about the 836 kits as far as i know, I'm using aftermarket rods in my bikes so i'm sorry i can't be of more help.........

[timbo750]

Retro, thanks.  I had a look on the ARP site and couldn't find them. I will have to have a better look or send them an email.  I believe the size M7 0.75

[Retro Rocket]

What other engine mods are you doing Tim, excuse my memory...

[timbo750]

836cc
Head ported
Slightly larger valves
Cam not decided yet

[Garage_guy_chris]

About 10 days ago I received the F2-F3 rod bolts from Western Hills Honda, they were about $80 for the 8 bolts and nuts, i also happen to know the Canadian network has them on back order till early sept

[timbo750]

Had a look on CMS as I know the Aus Honda dealer will be expensive. They have 2 different bolts listed for the F2, which I have seen listed in other threads as well but with no answer as which one is the better. The later serial number $3 compared to $8.50. the rod bolts listed in Yamiya are $10 each. Its always the little things that require the most amount of research.

[Retro Rocket]

If it was my engine Tim i would buy some aftermarket rods mate, CycleX has super rods at $599 that will do the trick {i'm using them on one of my engines} and are a bit of insurance. I wouldn't just use stronger rod bolts, you will be right at the rods limit with the head work and kit {weisco?} I've had a stock rod snap in half and come out the front of the block spewing oil all over the place, half way round a corner and 2 up, I survived the experience but ended up stopped in the bush   , missed everything  ,, it gave NO WARNING, just boom,   anyway that will never happen to me again as i won't use stock rods on any hot rodded engined Honda....

http://www.literalracingproducts.com/honda-high-perf-engine-parts.html

ARP rod bolts half way down the page, 2 for $75 dollars so $150 a set...

[timbo750]

I had wondered about upgrading the rods but the cost put me off doing it. However when I hear stories like yours I guess I will have yo find the funds.

[Garage_guy_chris]

Ive been iffy about the stock rods with my 836 build. The one thing i never hear anyone talk about is shot peening the stock rods. I cant seem to find much data on how much strength it would add but i do know its an old trick with muscle cars to get just a little more out of the rods..

[Retro Rocket]

Yes, shot peening and stronger rod bolts would work but if i was going to have stock used rods done i would want them crack tested and xrayed first.....Call me paranoid...

[Garage_guy_chris]

you bring up a valid point, so factor in the magnaflux, or die penetrant plus the shot peening and you probably have spent $300 or so might as well just upgrade them to cycle x super rods.  I do plan on running this past the engine builder and see what he thinks maybe get some pricing too.

[PeWe]

New rods need new bearings + rebalance of the crank....

If I should have my engine open today, Cycle X ( Lamb chop ) Lightened and Balanced Crankshaft Assembly should be something. Complete crank + rods ready to be installed. + lightened alternator.
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Cranshfts%20and%20Connecting%20Rods%20Page.htm

Then HD primary chains. I bought mine from Classic Cycle City. Seems to be slightly tighter and with less rattling sound than OEM.

I did not upgrade from OEM rods during my engine restore 2012 when I saw a too expensive domino effect... It was when I thought I could restore the bike for not that much.... I got higher needs when restoring, new parts taking the bike back to how it looked like from the beginning except for the tuned engine.

[MCRider]

Ive been iffy about the stock rods with my 836 build. The one thing i never hear anyone talk about is shot peening the stock rods. I cant seem to find much data on how much strength it would add but i do know its an old trick with muscle cars to get just a little more out of the rods..

At the time, it was either RC Engineering or ACtion 4s or both + others, that did shot peening, heat treating, and big bolts. The claim back then was unbreakable. Until they started makinng forged and/or alloy, and they were unbreakable, etc.

The stock rods can be made pretty strong for most uses except Turbo or such. But RR is right in wanting to crack test them. I had a bunch of parts magnafluxed and it wasn't cheap. Due to the small lot mainly.

Seems to lean towards some CycleX (or APE?) rods for cost effectiveness.

You could cryogenic treat them cheap but still doesn't answer the crack question.