Topic: CB750 K4 Build - The Cafe Tracer

[Davez134]

It will be worth the work. The lines of the bike and stance are looking good!

[budman]

It will be worth the work. The lines of the bike and stance are looking good!

Thanks.  Can't throw in the towel at this point.  I found a low profile adapter, but I don't think there's enough room for an elbow and a setup like that would mean I would have to use an inline fuel valve and loose my reserve.

[budman]

Looking online I found this Golan low profile outlet.  This looks like it might work with an inline valve.

[Davez134]

Worth a shot, better than relocating outlet under the tank. Do they give measurements, so you can make a mock up one and see?

[budman]

Worth a shot, better than relocating outlet under the tank. Do they give measurements, so you can make a mock up one and see?

I'm going to call them today and see if they will give me the dimensions.  Also I can't find a distributer that sells them online so I'll need to find out where I can get one.  I hope this works.

[budman]

I called the manufacturer and bought the low profile outlet directly from them.  They said they would ship it today.  The dude said they were an inch tall.  It's hard for me to get an accurate measurement of exactly how much clearance I really have, but I think that will work.  Fingers crossed.

[Stev-o]

Hoping that works out, Bud.  Would hate to see you cutting on that tank.

[budman]

Hoping that works out, Bud.  Would hate to see you cutting on that tank.

Thanks.  Me too.  I really need this work.  It would be some major work to fix my screw up.  I'd have to strip the sealant from the inside of the tank, weld in a patch where the existing bung is and weld in a new bung in a new location.  That would require grinding away a bunch of paint and body filler.  Then once all the welding was done I'd have to redo the body work, reprime, block sand, repaint, clean the inside of the tank, reseal the inside...big nightmare.  Would set me back weeks.

[calj737]

If have to relocate that petcock, you could buy a weld in bung, but silver solder it. Then locate and carefully drill another weld in to fit. Again solder it. Solder would generate less heat, less damage to your paint, and the liner might actually survive to the point that it would seal the soldered bung, obviating a weld/paint job.

There are numerous very low profile types if you have to cap that original location.

[budman]

FYI, regarding the engine mounting rods.  I don't know what I was thinking.  There are only three rods, not four.  I was thinking there were two on the bottom and two on the top, but there's only one on the top at the rear of the engine.  The front of the engine uses bolts, which I'm sure you all know.  Since I got the engine installed I was able to measure for the top rod and dropped it off at the machine shop today.  My buddy is out of town this week so his foreman is going to thread the last rod for me.  When my buddy gets back next week I'm going to get a price from him to do the threading.  The only reason I need help threading the rods is because of they made from stainless steel and it's super hard and requires a special dye.  I think the machine shop is actually cutting the threads on a cnc lathe.  If anyone was interested making their own rods they can easily be made using carbon steel.

But...for those interested in the stainless steel rods would you also be interested in having me supply the hardware (stainless steel nuts & washers)?  It would be cheaper if you supplied your own hardware.

[budman]

If have to relocate that petcock, you could buy a weld in bung, but silver solder it. Then locate and carefully drill another weld in to fit. Again solder it. Solder would generate less heat, less damage to your paint, and the liner might actually survive to the point that it would seal the soldered bung, obviating a weld/paint job.

There are numerous very low profile types if you have to cap that original location.

I found an adapter, in conjunction with an npt plug, that I could use to plug the existing bung, but I think it would drive me nuts knowing it was there.  Silver soldering sounds like it requires some skill.  I would still have to remove paint and body filler at the new bung location.  I don't think I could get a clean looking repair without having to do body work and paint.  The tank doesn't have a large flat surface on the bottom like a regular CB750 tank.

[calj737]

The tank doesn't have a large flat surface on the bottom like a regular CB750 tank.

Ah. Yeah, that makes it very tricky. 

[budman]

The tank doesn't have a large flat surface on the bottom like a regular CB750 tank.

Ah. Yeah, that makes it very tricky. 

I remember an episode of American Chopper where they forgot to weld in the fuel bung and didn't discover it until after the tank was painted and the bike had to delivered.  The tank had a flat bottom and they used a hole saw to cut a ring through the paint, primer and body filler just down to the sheet metal.  Then they hand scraped the paint and filler out of the middle of the circle.  The circle was quite a bit larger than the OD of the bung flange.  They drilled a hole for the bung and carefully tig welded it in.  I think they used some wet rags on the tank to keep the surrounding paint cool while they welded the bung in place to keep it from peeling up.  Then they were able to repaint the bottom.  I think they might have painted just inside the circle.  I can't remember exactly.  I don't think they had sealed the tank either.

[mrbreeze]

Ha ha!!!.....American chopper!!! Hey Pauly....I got this idear!!!

[budman]

Ha ha!!!.....American chopper!!! Hey Pauly....I got this idear!!!

You've seen that show too?

[mrbreeze]

But of course!!...but it's been awhile. I sure hope the adaptor works out for you. I would gladly give up having reserve than to start hacking up a finished tank. Would it be possible to raise the tank a smidge to get the needed clearance?

[budman]

But of course!!...but it's been awhile. I sure hope the adaptor works out for you. I would gladly give up having reserve than to start hacking up a finished tank. Would it be possible to raise the tank a smidge to get the needed clearance?

I've been thinking about how I could gain some clearance if needed.  I could put a washer (shim) under the rear mounting point of the tank.  Maybe even shave a little bit off the outlet adapter if I had to.  I'll just have to wait for it to get here.

[budman]

The machine shop knocked out the top mounting rod so I installed it.  Looks clean.  Waiting on some new mounting bolts for the top front.

[budman]

So I talked to my buddy and got a quote for threading the stainless steel mounting rods, and I priced out the cheapest stainless steel metric round bars I could find.  It doesn't look pretty.

To make a set of three mounting rods available I would need to charge $115 a set...and I'm not making a lot of money per set.  That price doesn't include the hardware either.  The price per thread isn't cheap and neither is the price per foot for the round bar, plus shipping.

If it sounds like a lot of money, I completely agree.  I've got that much in the rods I made for myself.  I paid too much for the round bar in the first place and while I didn't pay my buddy for the threading I did tip his shop foreman and the machinist who did the work, handsomely.

I doubt I'll get any takers at that price and to be honest I would need to get at least 10 orders to make it worth my while.  I'm just too busy to do a few sets.  Sorry I couldn't do better.

[calj737]

I've made them too. They are a work of love and if you charge just $50/Hr., they would run about $200 the way I make them.

I've used 303, 304, 316L and even 416. Have even welded a nut onto one end, then faced it in the lathe to make it look original (thats a $200 bolt by shop rates). But they do look sexy when they're made up...

[budman]

I've made them too. They are a work of love and if you charge just $50/Hr., they would run about $200 the way I make them.

I've used 303, 304, 316L and even 416. Have even welded a nut onto one end, then faced it in the lathe to make it look original (thats a $200 bolt by shop rates). But they do look sexy when they're made up...

I think the entire process of restoring and customizing motorcycles is a work of love.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I've made them too. They are a work of love and if you charge just $50/Hr., they would run about $200 the way I make them.

I've used 303, 304, 316L and even 416. Have even welded a nut onto one end, then faced it in the lathe to make it look original (thats a $200 bolt by shop rates). But they do look sexy when they're made up...

I think the entire process of restoring and customizing motorcycles is a work of love.

Three parts love, one part frustration/pain.

[budman]

Three parts love, one part frustration/pain.

Yes, I think your statement is more accurate than mine.

[edwardmorris]

I've made them too. They are a work of love and if you charge just $50/Hr., they would run about $200 the way I make them.

I've used 303, 304, 316L and even 416. Have even welded a nut onto one end, then faced it in the lathe to make it look original (thats a $200 bolt by shop rates). But they do look sexy when they're made up...

Calfab (as in fabricated by Cal) hangers 

[budman]

Sweet!