Author Topic: CB750 K4 Build - The Cafe Tracer (Read 118797 times)

budman · « **Reply #100 on:** February 13, 2015, 07:46:58 AM »

It's a Derek Weaver TX-1000. Looks like the same table that's sold all over the net under different names but still seems to retain the "1000" no matter who's selling it. Ships out of Fort Worth. I should have it next week.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #101 on:** February 13, 2015, 10:51:20 AM »

Bud,

It looks like you cut off the rear cross-member (that rises above the frame rails). If so, you will probably want to weld in a new cross-member or a rear tail hoop to preserve structural rigidity.

budman · « **Reply #102 on:** February 13, 2015, 12:04:17 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on February 13, 2015, 10:51:20 AM

Bud,

It looks like you cut off the rear cross-member (that rises above the frame rails). If so, you will probably want to weld in a new cross-member or a rear tail hoop to preserve structural rigidity.

Yep. I still have a lot to do. I left the cross member that holds the battery/electrics tray in place for now, but it will eventually get cut out. I've also already welded in two new cross members that hold the inner fender in place (upper and lower). There's going to be a rear hoop. I've already got the tubing. I'm trying to finish shaping the café rear section and seat before I make the hoop to match. There will probably be three or four more cross members welded in place when it's all said and done.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #103 on:** February 13, 2015, 03:09:44 PM »

Quote from: budman on February 13, 2015, 12:04:17 PM

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on February 13, 2015, 10:51:20 AM
Bud,

It looks like you cut off the rear cross-member (that rises above the frame rails). If so, you will probably want to weld in a new cross-member or a rear tail hoop to preserve structural rigidity.

Yep. I still have a lot to do. I left the cross member that holds the battery/electrics tray in place for now, but it will eventually get cut out. I've also already welded in two new cross members that hold the inner fender in place (upper and lower). There's going to be a rear hoop. I've already got the tubing. I'm trying to finish shaping the café rear section and seat before I make the hoop to match. There will probably be three or four more cross members welded in place when it's all said and done.

Bingo!

budman · « **Reply #104 on:** February 19, 2015, 05:31:46 PM »

My Tarozzi rearsets arrived today. I'm ditching the bolt on mounts and making my own weld on mounts. I was going to buy just the rearsets and linkage, but I priced everything out and it was cheaper just to buy the whole kit with the bolt on mounts. I'm about to take the sets apart to see if the levers are made out of aluminum. If they are I'll probably bead blast them to get the two tone effect that will match the rest of the bike.

budman · « **Reply #105 on:** February 20, 2015, 06:50:01 AM »

Cast aluminum. I think this looks much better. Probably shoot the levers with a coat of flat clear for the short term.

Stev-o · « **Reply #106 on:** February 20, 2015, 06:54:46 AM »

Quote from: budman on February 20, 2015, 06:50:01 AM

Cast aluminum. I think this looks much better.

Agreed.

PS. I have a line on a couple 836 motors in Austin. Text me if you want the info.

budman · « **Reply #107 on:** February 20, 2015, 07:08:39 AM »

Quote from: Stev-o on February 20, 2015, 06:54:46 AM

Quote from: budman on February 20, 2015, 06:50:01 AM
Cast aluminum. I think this looks much better.

Agreed.

PS. I have a line on a couple 836 motors in Austin. Text me if you want the info.

For sure.

budman · « **Reply #108 on:** February 21, 2015, 08:30:38 PM »

I started building a new oil tank today. I want to run hard lines. I could have bought the adapters from Cycle X, but with the 1/4" NPT threads they use on their adapters I figured I would be limited to 3/8" lines. I did some digging and found some 1/2" stainless steel adapters from McMaster Carr that will allow me to run 1/2" oil lines. I had to modify the stock aluminum adapters to accept the McMaster adapters by shortening and threading them with 3/8" NPT threads. I used JB Weld as a thread sealer and for a little extra security since I wasn't able to get a full course of threads on to the narrow end of the stock adapter. Still I got a good bite and tightened it pretty good. Should hold just fine. These adapters utilize a compression fitting that's good up to 1900 PSI, way beyond average oil pressure. The JB Weld should handle the hot oil. Supposed to hold up to 550 degrees. Looks like there's enough clearance for everything. I only bought one adapter to see if it'll work. Think it's time to order the second one.

budman · « **Reply #109 on:** February 21, 2015, 08:32:11 PM »

More oil line adapter pics.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #110 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:01:07 AM »

Nice work. What's your reasoning on the hard lines versus the flexible ones? Just personal preference, looks, or is there some other reasoning involved?

mystic_1 · « **Reply #111 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:52:37 AM »

Quote from: budman on February 21, 2015, 08:30:38 PM

compression fitting that's good up to 1900 PSI, way beyond average oil pressure.

FWIW, the oil lines on a CB750 don't really have any real pressure in them. The intake line is gravity-fed from the tank, and the return line just dumps oil back into the tank with no constrictions, so almost no pressure at all.

mystic_1

budman · « **Reply #112 on:** February 22, 2015, 12:45:25 PM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on February 22, 2015, 07:01:07 AM

Nice work. What's your reasoning on the hard lines versus the flexible ones? Just personal preference, looks, or is there some other reasoning involved?

I'm fabbing a new oil tank so I figure it's a good opportunity to go with my personal preference.

budman · « **Reply #113 on:** February 22, 2015, 12:45:59 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on February 22, 2015, 07:52:37 AM

Quote from: budman on February 21, 2015, 08:30:38 PM
compression fitting that's good up to 1900 PSI, way beyond average oil pressure.

FWIW, the oil lines on a CB750 don't really have any real pressure in them. The intake line is gravity-fed from the tank, and the return line just dumps oil back into the tank with no constrictions, so almost no pressure at all.

mystic_1

Even better. Thanks.

budman · « **Reply #114 on:** February 22, 2015, 06:20:12 PM »

I made some new brackets for the rearsets. I designed them so the pegs would end up in the same location as the bolt-on brackets would have located them and so all the linkage works without modification. I had my buddy, who owns a machine shop, turn the cylinders for me. I cut the flat plate out at work on the plasma table. I'll weld them up solid to the frame tomorrow after work.

Stev-o · « **Reply #115 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:00:14 PM »

Looks good, Bud.

That guy with the parts emailed me back. He has an 836 motor left that he'll sell for $250.

budman · « **Reply #116 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:15:36 PM »

Sent you a text, Steve.

budman · « **Reply #117 on:** February 27, 2015, 07:05:35 AM »

Tiny battery tray for a tiny LIB.

budman · « **Reply #118 on:** February 28, 2015, 06:57:16 PM »

I pretty much finished building the new oil tank. There's a drain plug in the bottom that I should have easy access to. I also used a vent tube on the inside of the tank like the factory oil tank. I'll install a fitting into the coupling in the bottom and run a rubber line down through the frame.

I mounted the battery tray to the oil tank with a little bit of a stand off. I made a cardboard battery mockup to check for clearance. Gave myself a little wiggle room for when I get the actual battery.

Everything is nice and solid. Pretty pleased with the outcome. Just have to make it look good now. I still have to squeeze the electrics to the rear of the battery. I'll probably make a panel that follows the fender so I'll have a larger surface area to be able to mount everything to.

budman · « **Reply #119 on:** March 01, 2015, 04:14:23 PM »

Rearset brackets welded solid.

Stev-o · « **Reply #120 on:** March 01, 2015, 04:40:58 PM »

Looks good, Bud, nice beads. What's the plan for the brake shaft?

budman · « **Reply #121 on:** March 01, 2015, 05:44:45 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on March 01, 2015, 04:40:58 PM

Looks good, Bud, nice beads. What's the plan for the brake shaft?

Thanks. I'm going to shorten the shaft. Those splines sticking out would bug me. I'm also going to make another stop that will replace the factory one that's welded to the frame. The stock one blocks the hole in the Tarozzi supplied lever where the brake switch spring goes.

budman · « **Reply #122 on:** March 07, 2015, 07:14:30 PM »

I've been working on the seat pan and rear section. It started with a tail light I had laying around. Thought it would look good on a café rear end so I hacked it off of the license plate frame. I was thinking fiberglass, but decided to use some of my woodworking abilities. Thought it would be different. The dark wood is Claro walnut and the light colored wood is basswood. I hadn't seen anything like this before until I spotted a photo on the internet a few weeks ago. The bike in the photo had a rear section and side covers made from walnut, but no stripes. I had already started mine before I saw the photo.

I made the stripes the same width as the ridge on the Suzuki gas tank I'm using. I'm going to paint the tank to sort of match the rear section. I'm not doing a faux wood grain or anything cheesy like that. It won't be a perfect color match, but I think it'll be interesting when it's done.

Even after all the work I have it at this point I'm not sure if I'm really digging it. I wanted the tail light to be more recessed, but because the mounting base is wedged I couldn't get it as deep as I had envisioned. It kind of reminds me of a 50's or 60's style car tail light, something like and old Cadillac, even though it's horizontal. I still have a lot of sanding a fitting to do on it, but the basic shape is there. Hopefully it's one of those things that will look good when it's all done.

Now that I have the shape I can make the hoop.

calj737 · « **Reply #123 on:** March 08, 2015, 05:50:00 AM »

That's a great looking start! Did you consider pushing the tail light "out" from inside the hump, instead of installing from outside the back? Might allow you a smaller opening to aide in trenching in the tail light.

Here's another great example of a wooden tail section on a bike-

budman · « **Reply #124 on:** March 08, 2015, 06:27:37 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on March 08, 2015, 05:50:00 AM

That's a great looking start! Did you consider pushing the tail light "out" from inside the hump, instead of installing from outside the back? Might allow you a smaller opening to aide in trenching in the tail light.

Here's another great example of a wooden tail section on a bike-

That's a good idea. Thanks for the suggestion. I can probably hog out some wood from the inside and make an angled mounting bracket out of steel for the tail light. I think I want to shorten the overall length a bit while I'm at it.

So I'm not the first or the second. I can say it's an original idea, at least for me.

News:

Author Topic: CB750 K4 Build - The Cafe Tracer (Read 118797 times)