Author Topic: Solid vs drilled idle screws, burbling/stumbling when rolling on?  (Read 532 times)

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Offline Dunk

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Solid vs drilled idle screws, burbling/stumbling when rolling on?
« on: September 21, 2014, 12:34:30 PM »
Bike is a K1 recently restored and fresh top end (rings, hone, under .001" taper, guides, seats cut/lapped, new valves, mild port work, stock cam). I didn't do a full rebuild on the carbs as they were done by PO a few years ago. Popped the bowls and just sprayed through all passages, everything was pretty darn clean so I didn't bother. One this that made me wonder was the idle screws seemed to be best around 1/2 turn out instead of ~1 turn out as they are supposed to be. These were drilled air screws and the rack may not be from a K1, though I do have the original set of carbs which was replaced as one body is cracked around the bowl. Bike ran well with drilled air screws but there was little or no difference from 1/2 out to fully in.

So this AM I took the solid air screws from the original rack, cleaned them up, put them in, and adjusted. I have them set about 5/8 turn out, they will go slightly farther out (about 1/8 turn farther) than the drilled screws for highest idle RPM/smoothest idle and screwing all the way in reduces idle quality slightly but noticeable and it's definitely rich when seated lightly.

Anyhow, changed to solid screws 5/8 out this AM and went for a ride down some twisting along the river and did some cloverleaf racing on the way back. I feel the idle is a bit better with these but the bike is having some sort of stumble/burble/misfire when easing into the throttle at 2k-3k RPM or slightly higher at light to moderate load. It is not consistent every time but seems almost like it's richer and loading up on fuel a bit. Does not feel quite like a lean misfire but definitely skips a beat briefly a fair amount of the time under those conditions. Could very well be anything though, I'm just guessing. Higher RPM say 4k-9k it performs flawlessly Tried backing out air screws after returning as the bike was definitely up to temp vs just a brief jaunt around town before setting idle mixture this AM. On two of them I was able to go about another 1/16-1/8 turn out, the other two stayed where they were. Engine good and hot, head and cylinder temps around 250-260 across most of the head and cylinders. #4 on right side of head is hotter, around 270* and that pipe is blued a little more than the others.

Could also be ignition, don't know. It's a Dyna S with Dyna 3 ohm coils, newer wires and iridium plugs. Which idle screws should I be running? Should I be concerned that I'm not in the ballpark of the recommended 1 turn out? Any thoughts or suggestions? Tempted to just throw the holey screws back in and call it good enough but I'd read filling the holey screws is a good improvement and obviously things were detuned with the later bikes for emissions reasons so I'd imagine keeping things closer to original for a K1 would be preferred rather than use K2 and up parts.

Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Re: Solid vs drilled idle screws, burbling/stumbling when rolling on?
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2014, 05:36:28 PM »
I bought a set of Keyster kits years back just because I wanted to freshen up the carbs. I'm thinking those were drilled. Don't remember for sure. I couldn't keep plugs in it as they were fouling all the time at low rpms. Took them out and put my used stockers back in and my problem went away. One set drilled and the other solid. I also removed the needles that came with the kits and put the used ones in. The keyster needles did not have a smooth surface, more machined look. Guess I ended up with a set of Keyster mains and bowl o-rings out of the deal.

I wouldn't blame the Dyna (probably). Those 3 ohm coils are probably actually helping you keep the plugs clean in your situation vs the stock coils.
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline Old Scrambler

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Re: Solid vs drilled idle screws, burbling/stumbling when rolling on?
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2014, 06:19:26 PM »
According to their literature...........Dyna S should have 5-Ohm coils..............

Your description intimates the classic 'stumble' when transitioning from pilots to mains while changing gears on corners. Raising the needles (lower slot) or shimming the needles will usually solve the problem.
Dennis in Wisconsin
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