Topic: Powdercoat Finishes $?

[thelowmax]

Howdy all:

I would recommend www.tomscyclerecycling.com which is very near your home.  He has done black and silver on my 1100F and the upper triple tree top from my 1969 SOHC and his price and his work is above excellent.  I recommend him highly.  Go try his website.

Thanks so much for such a great recommendation.  Unfortunately, frames are the one thing I don't do.  My blast cabinet and oven aren't quite big enough to accomodate a full frame, but I sent a PM to the OP for a shop in the area that does great work on MC frames.

Regarding price - $600-$1000 is outrageous, especially since a lot of the prep work will be done in this particular case.  On the other hand, anyone charging $125 to blast and PC isn't making much money.  It takes a good blaster 1-2 hours just to blast a frame.  Then it has to be washed and outgassed before zinc primer, color coat, and clear coat.  Most old frames have some rust, so even after blasting, a coat of zinc primer is highly recommended.  The clearcoat isn't a must, but it adds a nice depth to the color.

A good shop that does the job right (blasting included) will get at least $250 and upwards of $400.  Some will probably do the swingarm and center stand as well.  I'm not saying that the guys paying $125 got a bad job, but being a powder coater myself, I can't imagine taking the time to do a job like that properly for such a low price.  It really is a LOT of work.

Tom

Hi Tom, Thanks for the info. I actually found a place right near me ($75 per hour) but that's where I was informed about the discoloration due to the process. Any thoughts? I don't want to put a faux chrome and topcoat on it as that defeats  the bare metal concept. Unless I'm guaranteed the finish I want, I think I may be better off just can spraying the frame with 2k or something.

[Powderman]

Here I am. The shops doing the basic colors are probably production shops who run a conveyor line and your part gets hung on the line and run through with a gazillion other widgets being coated. These places do not and will not take the added time to properly prep a custom piece for your bike.
I always cringe when the posters say to go with paint over powder because it's easier to fix. While this is correct why would you use a product that you know has a defect going in, lack of durability. The chances of powder chipping if done correctly is greatly reduced over a good paint job so the need to fix is almost completely eliminated. Paint a piece of aluminum foil and powder coat a piece. Wad them up a number of times and see which you would rather have on your parts.
Depending on the frame I start at $150 and go up to around $250 for frame alone. Swing arms, sub frame, etc. are all separate pieces and get priced accordingly.
I'm surprised there were actually 4 places in your area wanting to rip you off so badly. I worked for a place that restored CBX's and while I gave him a deal because he did so many restorations a month we still were coming in around $500 for everything that was black on the bike.
You didn't mention if your frame is steel or aluminum. Steel will flash rust with in minutes if there is any moisture in the air. In your prep you will have to be sure all of the polishing compound has been cleaned off or it will wreak havoc on the finish in the oven.

[thelowmax]

Here I am. The shops doing the basic colors are probably production shops who run a conveyor line and your part gets hung on the line and run through with a gazillion other widgets being coated. These places do not and will not take the added time to properly prep a custom piece for your bike.
I always cringe when the posters say to go with paint over powder because it's easier to fix. While this is correct why would you use a product that you know has a defect going in, lack of durability. The chances of powder chipping if done correctly is greatly reduced over a good paint job so the need to fix is almost completely eliminated. Paint a piece of aluminum foil and powder coat a piece. Wad them up a number of times and see which you would rather have on your parts.
Depending on the frame I start at $150 and go up to around $250 for frame alone. Swing arms, sub frame, etc. are all separate pieces and get priced accordingly.
I'm surprised there were actually 4 places in your area wanting to rip you off so badly. I worked for a place that restored CBX's and while I gave him a deal because he did so many restorations a month we still were coming in around $500 for everything that was black on the bike.
You didn't mention if your frame is steel or aluminum. Steel will flash rust with in minutes if there is any moisture in the air. In your prep you will have to be sure all of the polishing compound has been cleaned off or it will wreak havoc on the finish in the oven.

Hey Powderman! Thanks for chiming in. As I said, there's a place around the corner that just opened that does a lot of one off pieces. Young guys that do a lot of bicycles and wheels rims and such. I like the fact that they plainly state $75 an hour for all work, and were the first to tell me about the challenges I may have bare metal powdercoating with just clear.  http://www.pikepowdercoating.com/

 Also, I have heard, everything from weld points to wall thicknesses effects the color of the metal, so, not only will it be darker but also uneven?

Given your expertise, what would be your recommendation for getting a clear coat (of, whatever) on a high gloss polished bare metal (steel) without changing the color?

I certainly appreciate your input.

[Powderman]

Here I am. The shops doing the basic colors are probably production shops who run a conveyor line and your part gets hung on the line and run through with a gazillion other widgets being coated. These places do not and will not take the added time to properly prep a custom piece for your bike.
I always cringe when the posters say to go with paint over powder because it's easier to fix. While this is correct why would you use a product that you know has a defect going in, lack of durability. The chances of powder chipping if done correctly is greatly reduced over a good paint job so the need to fix is almost completely eliminated. Paint a piece of aluminum foil and powder coat a piece. Wad them up a number of times and see which you would rather have on your parts.
Depending on the frame I start at $150 and go up to around $250 for frame alone. Swing arms, sub frame, etc. are all separate pieces and get priced accordingly.
I'm surprised there were actually 4 places in your area wanting to rip you off so badly. I worked for a place that restored CBX's and while I gave him a deal because he did so many restorations a month we still were coming in around $500 for everything that was black on the bike.
You didn't mention if your frame is steel or aluminum. Steel will flash rust with in minutes if there is any moisture in the air. In your prep you will have to be sure all of the polishing compound has been cleaned off or it will wreak havoc on the finish in the oven.

Hey Powderman! Thanks for chiming in. As I said, there's a place around the corner that just opened that does a lot of one off pieces. Young guys that do a lot of bicycles and wheels rims and such. I like the fact that they plainly state $75 an hour for all work, and were the first to tell me about the challenges I may have bare metal powdercoating with just clear.  http://www.pikepowdercoating.com/

 Also, I have heard, everything from weld points to wall thicknesses effects the color of the metal, so, not only will it be darker but also uneven?

Given your expertise, what would be your recommendation for getting a clear coat (of, whatever) on a high gloss polished bare metal (steel) without changing the color?

I certainly appreciate your input.

If you're concerned about the metal turning try using a lower cure temp clear, there are some that cure at 325*-345*. You're going to lose 15-20% of the gloss when you clear coat the bare metal.

[lrutt]

didn't read the whole thread, but have to ask...if you do 'historical' restos then why would you PC your bike?

Just paint the damn thing with enamel for $30 and be done with it. I've got enamel frames that were just rattle canned 20 years ago that still look great.

[thelowmax]

didn't read the whole thread, but have to ask...if you do 'historical' restos then why would you PC your bike?

Just paint the damn thing with enamel for $30 and be done with it. I've got enamel frames that were just rattle canned 20 years ago that still look great.

Yes. Somebody already posed that question. I just know a powder coat looks and lasts longer. I would do it myself,  but I don't have an oven big enough. That's all. But after reviewing all the info, regarding color, sheen (the biggest issues), cost, etc., more than likely, I'll just do it myself for cheap.