Topic: Senior project for high school - 78 CB750K

[toytuff]

I have not been following this thread but let me know if you are in need of anything. Don't have much left from my 77 K7 build but always glad to help. Especially with a School Project such as this. 

I do have a pair of stock rear shocks and some nice "F" handlebars that look good on a K model. Have some K model handlebars also.

Just drop me a PM. Give me a few days to reply as I am not lurking here much as of late. If you are "good" on parts I'll save them for someone else in need.

tt

[toytuff]

The 4 nuts on the rear wheel all have a small tab on the nut, which make it such that a socket doesn't want to seat on the nut properly to try & turn the nut to remove it.  Are we supposed to pop that tab up or something in order to remove that nut?

Bend it down with punch.

tt

[Stoli]

Those are safety locking tabs to keep those nuts from loosening while riding. If you bend them back carefully you can reuse them although I doubt new ones cost a whole lot.

[toytuff]

WASHER A7, TONGUED
 94108-17000

NLA.

Might find some but yes, easy does it.

tt

[flybox1]

no need to completely bend them flat to get the nut off. 
flat will surely crack the tab off.  just enough to get a spanner on it.

[Restoration Fan]

no need to completely bend them flat to get the nut off. 
flat will surely crack the tab off.  just enough to get a spanner on it.

Thank you all for the advice.  We were able to get them to bend down and got the nuts off. 
Just finished with Logan painting triple tree top and bottom, center stand, and kickstand.  They're drying in the garage as I type.

Now we just have to work on getting the tires off the rims so we can see about getting the spokes either cleaned up or replaced.  The good news is that I had thought I would have to replace the tires but now I'm not sure.  They're Bridgestone Spitfires front and back and both are so lightly used that they still have the little rubber things sticking up (I apologize but we've always called those rubber tits....someone please provide me the proper name so I can avoid being a sexist  ).

[Rocky2010]

Great project wish I had a project at school like that, I may have enjoyed school much better and wouldn't have taken so many days off :-)

[Restoration Fan]

Check their production date (tires). Despite their apparent lack of wear, 5 years old and they're likely not suitable for safe riding.

Good call.  I just went and learned how to tell when a tire was manufactured and apparently both of these tires were manufactured very early in 2001.  So 13/14 year old tires.  I should be good to go, right? 

[grcamna2]

Check their production date (tires). Despite their apparent lack of wear, 5 years old and they're likely not suitable for safe riding.

Good call.  I just went and learned how to tell when a tire was manufactured and apparently both of these tires were manufactured very early in 2001.  So 13/14 year old tires.  I should be good to go, right? 

maybe you could run down the rear tire w/ extended Dyno runs when you get the bike fully assembled/running and then fine tune her. 

[70CB750]

WASHER A7, TONGUED
 94108-17000

NLA.

Might find some but yes, easy does it.

tt

Or you can use nylocks, that's a clean solution.

[Restoration Fan]

You are good to go; straight to a tire shop! Cmon now, Dad, part of the resto is learning to operate safely 

Small details like those are hard to think of when you're neck deep to a giraffe in a total rebuild. Bet you keep looking at bins of parts thinking, "Sure hope I remeber where that went..." Been there. Done that.

LOL.  Yeah that was my lame attempt at humor there.

All advice you guys give is welcomed and I assure you that the safety advice will be heeded.  As my dad always told me, "Good rubber is always important...no matter what you're doing."  And it's a wise son who listens to his father's advice. 

And you're dead right about the parts.  I actually have two 8'x6' bookshelves that are stacked full of sorted and bagged parts right now.  The ONLY way I would undertake such a project with Logan is with the help of my buddy, Mike, who's serving as Logan's project coordinator and you guys on this message board.

[Restoration Fan]

WASHER A7, TONGUED
 94108-17000

NLA.

Might find some but yes, easy does it.

tt

Or you can use nylocks, that's a clean solution.

That's a good suggestion as well.  Thank you.

We were able to get them off without breaking the tabs and I checked eBay and there were 4 or 5 on there...ranging from a few bucks to $25....but there were some available.

[Restoration Fan]

Question:  I saw in maduncle's thread where he mentions that he may end up losing the center stand once he fits a muffler onto his 4-into-1's.  Since I'm likely going to be putting those 4-1 pipes shown earlier in the thread onto this bike, where is the usual conflict point between the muffler and the center stand?  Is it that the pipe on some of them just ends up being routed underneath enough that it is in the way of the stand as it comes down?  Because I would think that any hangers needed to hold the pipe could be adjusted and moved to another place to accommodate if they were the problem.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Looks like you guys are learning a lot. I'm joinin' in!

[Restoration Fan]

Two questions:
1.  To remove the stator, did all of you guys purchase the tool from Honda or do you have some other method?
2.  Is there a secret to splitting the front part of the speedometer from the chrome rear part of it?  The black paint portion of ours needs to be repainted and, while it could be done with a lot of careful taping, I would like to know how to take the thing apart.

[madmtnmotors]

Is there a secret to splitting the front part of the speedometer from the chrome rear part of it?

Remove the two acorn nuts from the back of the chrome cup. Feed the wires through the back of the cup as you lift the speedo out. The chrome cup is just for looks.

[Stoli]

The tool to remove the rotor is really just a bolt so you don't need to shell out for the Honda tool. If you want to take the rotor off, then you will need the bolt/tool. On one bike I screwed the bolt in all the way and gave it a good wack with a hammer and the rotor fell right off. On another I had to use an impact wrench on the bolt to get the rotor off. The bottom line is that you really don't have to take it off if you don't want to. It does make the reassembly a little easier by reducing the weight of the crank shaft.

Regarding the gauges, read the last few posts of the first page of my a Project #1 thread.

[Restoration Fan]

The bottom line is that you really don't have to take it off if you don't want to. It does make the reassembly a little easier by reducing the weight of the crank shaft.

The manual says to remove the stator as well as the gear shift levers etc to the right of the stator before splitting open the top and bottom of the case.  Is that not necessary?

[grcamna2]

The bottom line is that you really don't have to take it off if you don't want to. It does make the reassembly a little easier by reducing the weight of the crank shaft.

The manual says to remove the stator as well as the gear shift levers etc to the right of the stator before splitting open the top and bottom of the case.  Is that not necessary?

if you didn't remove the stator or gearshift lever you couldn't replace the oil seals that need to be done for a rebuild.

[Stoli]

First of all, I could have my terminology wrong but I thought the "stator" coil is mounted to the inside of the cover. The "rotor" is mounted to the end of the crankshaft. The rotor, and rest of the alternator, sits in oil and there is no seal behind it. There is an oil seal on the other end of the crank by the points. You don't have to remove the rotor to change a seal or crack the case. It just makes reassembly a little easier but not much.

You do want to remove the gearshift mechanism. Still no oil seals that I am aware of but if memory serves, you wouldn't be able to remove the transmission unless you took off the gearshift mechanism. Take lots of pics while you do that. Will make reassembly easier.

What oil seals are you referring to grcamna?

[Stoli]

I know the manual says to remove the rotor but I can assure you that when I completed my first engine rebuild on a 750 K8,  I never pulled the rotor off.  Didn't buy the tool until rebuild 2 and that was because the rotor was a little rusty and I had one that I wanted to put in its place.

[Restoration Fan]

Guys, as always, I can't thank you enough for the advice and willingness to share your knowledge on this forum with a bunch of newbies like us. 

We have a bunch of stuff going on this weekend with senior portraits and what not but Sunday we'll see if we can get the cases split open by removing just the shifting mechanisms and leaving the rotor on.  (And Stoli, you were correct...I was saying stator but the stator coil is already off the engine.  I meant the rotor.)

[grcamna2]

First of all, I could have my terminology wrong but I thought the "stator" coil is mounted to the inside of the cover. The "rotor" is mounted to the end of the crankshaft. The rotor, and rest of the alternator, sits in oil and there is no seal behind it. There is an oil seal on the other end of the crank by the points. You don't have to remove the rotor to change a seal or crack the case. It just makes reassembly a little easier but not much.

You do want to remove the gearshift mechanism. Still no oil seals that I am aware of but if memory serves, you wouldn't be able to remove the transmission unless you took off the gearshift mechanism. Take lots of pics while you do that. Will make reassembly easier.

What oil seals are you referring to grcamna?

sorry,I was wrong;I was thinking of another bike.

[Stoli]

Cool. Maybe someone else will chime in between now and then and let us know their thoughts on this. I go by the book, like yourself, but this is one of those things that I found to be a big hassle and not really necessary. The removal bolt and an air impact wrench make quick work of it, but without both of those, you could be unnecessarily fighting with it for quite a while.

[Stoli]

As a reminder, be ready to drill out some or all of the screws that hold on the countershaft bearing holder. Those puppies are staked in there pretty tight and don't like to give up very easily, even with an impact driver there is a good chance you will strip the heads.