Topic: Senior project for high school - 78 CB750K

[madmtnmotors]

Mine came today as well:



I was sure to order them by make, model, and part number (HS-27) as what was indicated on their original site:

http://www.marblesmotors.com/partsforsalehondabadges.htm

as well as what I believe is their actual Australian source:

http://www.badgereplicas.com.au/badges_honda.htm

Did you give a part number when you ordered? Randy seemed pretty good to work with, give him a call and see what he can do to help.

[Restoration Fan]

Mine came today as well:



I was sure to order them by make, model, and part number (HS-27) as what was indicated on their original site:

http://www.marblesmotors.com/partsforsalehondabadges.htm

as well as what I believe is their actual Australian source:

http://www.badgereplicas.com.au/badges_honda.htm

Did you give a part number when you ordered? Ron seemed pretty good to work with, give him a call and see what he can do to help.

I'm going to call tomorrow and see about getting them swapped.  I didn't give him the actual part #; I guess I should have.  I told him I needed the one for the 78K model and just assumed that someone who was making the badges would know what that was.  Little did I know at the time that they were just a reseller for the Australian company. 

[madmtnmotors]

Yeah, normally make ,model and year is usually enough, but due to the fact that these are year and model specific (one year, one model) as well as the confusion exhibited by other members here that happen to be quite familiar with these bikes, I knew I couldn't be too careful so I made sure he understood the part number I was talking about. Add to that the number of different types of badges they are dealing with, and it was bound to happen to someone.

Sorry to hear it happened to you. So close, and yet so far! Shipping was pretty reasonable (ten bucks from Australia?), so I don't think you'll have much trouble getting it sorted.

[Stev-o]

Mine came today as well:



I was sure to order them by make, model, and part number (HS-27) as what was indicated on their original site:

http://www.marblesmotors.com/partsforsalehondabadges.htm

as well as what I believe is their actual Australian source:

http://www.badgereplicas.com.au/badges_honda.htm

Did you give a part number when you ordered? Ron seemed pretty good to work with, give him a call and see what he can do to help.

I'm going to call tomorrow and see about getting them swapped.

Hope you have better luck than me.  I received a broken badge for my H1 from Marble and have been waiting a month for a replacement.  Safe to say I won't be ordering from him again especially since we now know they come from Oz anyway. 

[martin_uk]

Mine came today as well:





http://www.badgereplicas.com.au/badges_honda.htm

When I try to connect to Oz site I get

"Error. Page cannot be displayed. Please contact your service provider for more details. (1)"

Maybe preventing sales to UK?

[madmtnmotors]

Hope you have better luck than me.  I received a broken badge for my H1 from Marble and have been waiting a month for a replacement.  Safe to say I won't be ordering from him again especially since we now know they come from Oz anyway. 

Definitely hate to hear that Steve. I was thinking that in both yours and Ron case it might be worth offering to pay for shipping (at least one way?) just to get things resolved. It ain't right, but it might help, and would be a somewhat inexpensive lesson regarding a particular vendor. 

Good luck guys. 

[Restoration Fan]

I just spoke with Randy earlier and he promised to make it right.  It actually wasn't his mistake.  I found the email where I had actually sent him the photo of the desired badge (the one linked earlier in the thread).  And he requested the correct part number because we pulled up his email.

He did say the guy was going to be out for the next 3 or 4 weeks so it would take some time but he assured me he would make it right.  I have the 77K badges on it right now, so as long as I eventually get the correct badges, it's all good.

[Maurice]

Are you going to wait for the correct badges to show up before firing up the damn thing? Let me know so I can get on with my life, thanks

[Restoration Fan]

Are you going to wait for the correct badges to show up before firing up the damn thing? Let me know so I can get on with my life, thanks

Ha.  No we are troubleshooting why it isn't starting but have been hampered by Logan needing to study for his AP Calculus finals.  Why they are holding them a month early is strange but they are having them Thursday.

[Restoration Fan]

When I try to connect to Oz site I get

"Error. Page cannot be displayed. Please contact your service provider for more details. (1)"

Maybe preventing sales to UK?

It's possible, Martin.  If you need me to order some and send them to you, just let me know.

Ron

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

^^^ those are from F model. Did they send you wrong ones or you just don't care??

They sent me the wrong ones and I didn't notice until you said that.

Ron

What are you going to do with those?

[Restoration Fan]

What are you going to do with those?

I told Randy that I would send them back to him when I receive the proper ones.

[Restoration Fan]

We removed the #1 spark plug and tried to crank it today.  After hooking the plug back up to the spark plug wire and starting the motor, we held the spark plug to the engine casing and we didn't get spark at all.  So we're thinking the issue might be spark and not gas.  (Smart, huh?  ).  We're using a PAMCO ignition system and new PAMCO coils.  We wired them up according to the online instructions, but I supposed it's possible that we don't have those set up correctly.  If I'm thinking straight, not getting spark would likely indicate a problem between the coils and the spark plug.  Correct?  Because the battery is still showing over 12 volts.

Also, we are definitely getting gas through to it.  I put clear lines on from the tank to the carb and gas is flowing through it.  If you keep twisting on the throttle, you can actually make it piss gas out of the overflow lines beneath the bike.  Is that normal or does that signify that the floats aren't adjusted properly?

[vfourfreak]

If you have gas coming out of anywhere, please be careful testing for sparks !! Wait till any gas has evaporated and keep the workshop well ventilated.

Kev

[70CB750]

The gas should not be coming  out of bowls, floaters are supposed to stop it.

Kill switch is in run position?

[Restoration Fan]

I think I have them adjusted to the improper height then because gas was coming out of all 4 overflow tubes. 

Once we saw that, we stopped the testing of the spark because I tend to like my eyebrows where they are...still on my face.  It may be time to take them off the bike and run them with me over to Bill Benton's house to see if he can help me get them all adjusted correctly.

We didn't get a chance to test the spark on #2 or #3 or to confirm 12V after the kill switch due to the need to work on AP Calculus.  By the way, how would you test that you have 12V after the kill switch?  Take the headlight back off and test one of the wires there?  The only other way I can think of would be to remove the screws and take the kill switch assembly off the handlebars and test it internally there.

[ivanhoew]

ron , with the switch set to run ,see if there's a live 12v  at the coils .

robert

[70CB750]

Check the voltage on the black with white wire at the coil.

On my build I used a timing gun/light to check for spark.  Cranking the engine with starter and getting strobo flash for every spark plug wire - and none for the Kill swith to Stop.

[evanphi]

Confirm you have 12v at the coils, and after the KILL switch. Do you have spark on 2/3?

Was also going to suggest this... 12V at the battery can be lost very quickly by the time it gets to the coils!

[70CB750]

My Pamco is wired from the kill switch too, btw.

[Restoration Fan]

My Pamco is wired from the kill switch too, btw.

Did yours come with two of the same coils?  The instructions listed online said in step 5:

5. With the trigger magnet positioned as shown above, the green wire from the trigger on the right goes to the coil for cylinders 1 and 4 (blue wire), and the other green wire goes to the coil for cylinders 2 and 3 (yellow wire). If you assemble the rotor with 2-3 in place of 1-4 as shown, then you can either do it again, or just reverse the wires for each cylinder.


But we don't have a yellow wire coming from either coil.  Instead, both of the coils they sent us have blue wires.  Not that it should really matter, I wouldn't think.  So we used that other blue wire instead of the yellow wire.

[evanphi]

The colour from the coils shouldn't matter... as long as the wire connecting TO the 1/4 coil is blue, and the one going to the 2/3 coil is yellow.

[70CB750]

He has generic wires on coils is what I understand.

No, it would not matter, it would still produce a spark even if the spark was on wrong time of the cycle for given pair of cylinders.

[70CB750]

But you still have to resolve the 12v issue. Even if you had the coil signal wires (blue, yellow, pink, green) reversed, you'd have spark, but crappy timing. Look for the BLK/WHT.

Thanks Cal, I always remind myself how much I would suck as a teacher when I am trying  to explain something 

[NobleHops]

Sometimes I write too much, but I suspect when explaining something someone is reading, they may not fully picture what is being written. Best to take them step-by-step when helping them through "new territory".

And, it's often likely that my explanations are already obvious to the reader, so I'm just prattling on-

Bollocks, your explanations are among the clearest and most helpful of anyone's, and so referencable for other people's projects too.