Topic: cb350 four cylinders 1(most left) and 4(most right) not firing

[Dos]

No  the numbers go up and down but I'll go back and find the peak or neutral level

[Dos]

If the coil for cylinder 3 and 4 doesn't pass the spark test could it just be that coil then?

[TwoTired]

When you take the reading with the meter, insert the probes and take your hands off everything.  Do the numbers still hunt when your hands are off?

You said the wires were replaced.  The stock coils don't have replaceable wires.  Please provide details about this.

[TwoTired]

If the coil for cylinder 3 and 4 doesn't pass the spark test could it just be that coil then?

I think you're going to replace the coil regardless of what we say.

[Dos]

Nono I want to make sure of everything. They might have just been NGK tops I'm not to sure.. But if both of them aren't firing then I think it eliminates there being s problem with the wire

[Dos]

But what would be the cause of no spark on spark plus going to cylinders 2 and 3? Cdi box?

[Dos]

They are NGK tops I believe but I know for a fact these are original coils
http://m.ebay.com/itm/140890173614?nav=SEARCH

[2strokeTrush]

Its your coils, replace them

[Dos]

Will do. Can someone explain to me this though its been boggling me... Problem was 1 and 4 aren't firing.. Spark plugs fire at 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3 and 2 and 3 were firing

[TwoTired]

You have not done the proper troubleshooting procedure, and haven't proven any of your coils are defective.  Strong change you'll replace them and have the exact same problem.  That's the risk of part substitution as a method of repair.

When did you install a CDI box?  The stock bike never had one.

Did you ever test for voltage across the points both open a closed?

I'm beginning to wonder if flail is a way of life for you.   

The ignition system is so very simple on this bike.  Yet you refuse to isolate the individual components for verification.  Slow down take it step by step, and you should get the proper results.  Or, you could replace everything on the hope that fixes the problem.   ...which may yet be a simple adjustment or connection issue you are overlooking.

[Dos]

I won't get the new coils yet I don't have the box I have spark from both points but the right one is weak and orange

[Dos]

I will test voltage tomorrow morning

[Dos]

You are absolutely right.

What else should I check besides the point's voltage open and closed?

Could this possibly have anything to do with the alternator/stator?

[trueblue]

FYI, in an ideal world points shouldn't spark, in reality they will just a tiny bit.  Any spark should be barely visible.  It is possible for a condenser to short out and kill your spark. 

DOS, the best piece of advice I can give you is slow down, do EXACTLY what TT says no more no less, he will help you to get it going.  I could walk you through it myself but I don't have the patience.  I would have given up long ago.

[calj737]

Will do. Can someone explain to me this though its been boggling me... Problem was 1 and 4 aren't firing.. Spark plugs fire at 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3 and 2 and 3 were firing

Re-read this ^^^^ it makes absolutely no sense!

The problem is NOT your stator. In fact, your stator has nothing at all to do with generating spark. The problem lies somewhere between your points plate and your spark plug.

If you have determined the correct, final resistance numbers for your coils, post them (after doing as TT instructed). Those numbers will confirm the coil and plug wires are good (we have already determined that 12v is reaching them).

If the above is true, then all attention gets turned to the points and condensers on the timing plate. I will go out on a limb and wager that your condensers are shot, and you might also need points. BUT, confirm it via TT's advice. Then;
- you will know for certain what is wrong
- you will know how to accurately diagnose these problems in the future
- you will spend more time riding and less time pulling your hair out
- you might actually save some money

Doesn't that all sound appealing! So do as TT and others have suggested; settle down, go step-by-step and be methodical. You CAN solve this easily. Speculating about what might be wrong is worthless until you have verified what is actually correct.

You ever heard of the Computer/IT Help Desk guys answer to most problems? "The problem is between the chair and the keyboard".

We all know you're learning, we all know you're anxious to ride against a limited weather window. The slower you go right now, the faster it gets resolved.

Lecture over.

[Dos]

When the bike was running cylinders 1 and 4 were not running .. How ever there sparks are when I do the spark plug test. When the bike was running only cylinders 3 and 4 would be running. But when I do the spark test the coil that has the 2 chords with the spark plugs in them that would go to 3 and 4 doesn't spark. and I could tell by touching the exhaust pipes coming from 1 and 4 that they weren't running

 But you guys are right I'm going to rest the votlage across the points

[Dos]

I get a reading of 10.50 volts when the points are open.

[Dos]

I also want to say thank you for everyone that's helped me out thus far and dealing with my $#!t

I looked out the points again and I can see a healthy spark when I crank down with the bike on. Right one isn't showing.. There's a spark advancer behind the plate could that have anything to do with it? I'm just shooting blanks here

[TwoTired]

I shouldn't have to, but I will spell it out, as you only reported 25% of what data is needed.

You have to report 4 voltage readings across the point contacts when the key switch and kill switch are both enabled (in run mode), and with a fully charged battery.

1.4 points open _______
1.4 points closed _______
2.3 points open______
2.3 points closed_____

This is to verify the points are able to function in the circuit.

The next step is to verify that the points are electrically connected to the coils at the blue and/or yellow terminal.

The points control current flow through the coils, provided it's primary winding is intact and connected.  I believe you previously reported ~ 4.7 ohms measured on each coil's primary when disconnected from the bike.  Please verify this data point.

Sparks at the points are NOT wanted, though they might give an indication to a lesser problem to be addressed after we know some of the fundamentals are in place and reliable for your specific bike.

Have you checked both the gap when fully open and the static timing of the points?  What procedure did you use?

imo, you have wasted days, being in a hurry.  Have you other distractions stealing your time and focus?

[Dos]

1.4 I'm getting 10.40 volts. Open
1.4 I'm getting nothing. Closed
2.3 I'm getting 9.80 volts. Open with orangey spark
2.3 I'm getting nothing closed.

I just touched connectors from the condensors by having the red touching the connector point and the black on the exhaust(to ground..I'm learning!)  And I get nothing but when I do it on the other side I get Around 8 volts... My battery is some what low but not that bad so everything is down 3 volts or so

[Dos]

The picture I sent is 2.3 but its 1.4 that shows nothing with the condensers when i tested with one prong grounded and the other connected to the connector.

[calj737]

Which condenser is not showing voltage? Yellow side or Blue side?

An engine bolt might be a better ground source, FYI.

[KiefRichards]

That gap looks pretty big in the last pic

[Dos]

Yeah I just adjusted it the one with no voltage has blue and blue wire its the 1.4 side which makes sense because the bike wouldnt run on 1 and 4. One wire comes from condenser the other comes from a wire that goes all the way to where all the circuit are.

[Dos]

I swapped out the condenser for 1.4 and it still reads nothing I am concluding that it's the blue wire that goes into the electrical box. Idk what to do next though because I try to trace the blue wire to the box and idk where it connects to