Author Topic: A few problems to think about after first ride. (Read 5226 times)

cakey · « **on:** October 09, 2014, 12:57:56 AM »

Went down to put the bikes over the pits to get my green slip for rego. Did 21 miles total and synced the carbs before I left.

Had a really good ride there and the bike ran great. The mechanic was more interested in the bike and the inspection. He picked up on the inspection that my rear brake light was set to come on too early. Three of my air box rubber manifolds were not sitting in the air box correctly. Got my green slip and about too leave.

Problems started. Upper Tripple tree clamp bolt was flopping around. No nut. Went back looked around couldn't find it so he grabbed one of his. Must have fallen off on the way. He notices number 4 carb is leaking. Looks like it not sitting on correctly. Tried too adjust it there but couldn't get it too seat properly.

Went on the highway up and cruising at about 50 mile and the bike starts surging and then keeps surging. I thought it was going to brake down but every time I gave it a bit of gas it would get going again and then start surging and spluttering. Pulled up at the lights 5 mile down the road then took off and it didn't do it again.

Then the neutral light comes on and doesn't go off for the rest of the way home. Get in the gate at work and give it a couple of little revs and the red oil light goes on (start really freaking out) give the gas a bit of a squirt and the light goes out. When the revs go down the light goes on.

Reach over and turn it off straight away. Walked away not sure what's going on.

Neutral light stays on
Bike was surging now it's not
Red oil light cam on and then went off with revs, when it came back on it was flickering and lighter in colour.
Front brake squeaking like a wounded mouse
Carb bowl not sitting in correctly.

scunny · « **Reply #1 on:** October 09, 2014, 02:10:36 AM »

best you get a manual, they are available on this site. do a good look over your bike and fix whats wrong.

70CB750 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 09, 2014, 02:14:43 AM »

What oil are you running?

Neutral switch is under, near the shift lever. Take it out and check it.

We talking 750, correct?

cakey · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2014, 02:23:08 AM »

Quote from: 70CB750 on October 09, 2014, 02:14:43 AM

What oil are you running?

Neutral switch is under, near the shift lever. Take it out and check it.

We talking 750, correct?

CB750k1

Been doing a lot of searching in the forum and will start checking out once the kids go to bed. I see the flickering oil light can be a problem with some bikes in relation to the oil.

I am running Castrol RX Super 15w-40

Quote from: scunny on October 09, 2014, 02:10:36 AM

best you get a manual, they are available on this site. do a good look over your bike and fix whats wrong.

Got the manual.

martin99 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 09, 2014, 03:40:53 AM »

The fact it was surging and has now stopped suggests you may have pulled some crap through the mains and it has now cleared itself. Not uncommon on a freshly built bike. An inline filter may help, if only to give you a visual check to see if there is any crud coming down the fuel line. Worth dropping the bowls and checking the mains are clear, other than that you just have to see if it does it again.

Disconnect the wire from the neutral switch. If the light stays on, you've got an earth somewhere along the wire. If the light goes out, but comes on if you ground the wire against the case, your switch could be faulty.

Your oil light sounds like it's doing what it should, as long as it goes out when you rev it I wouldn't worry too much. Does raising the idle slightly extinguish it?

cakey · « **Reply #5 on:** October 09, 2014, 03:53:15 AM »

Thanks Oldschoolnuts, I was just about to post a thought that maybe it's electrical somewhere for both the neutral and the oil light to play up.

With the ignition on the neutral stays on wether in gear or not and the oil light doesn't even turn on now?

Fixed the Carty. I don't know why but the internal of the Darby wall was 64.10mm and the outside of the Darby bowl was 64.45mm so it wouldn't fit in. Just gave a light file on the edge and it hasn't leaked again.

Am on second beer and checking electrics which I am hopeless at.

cakey · « **Reply #6 on:** October 09, 2014, 04:00:06 AM »

Two things

Oil light stays off but when I toggle the ignition key switch up and down between the different settings the oil light comes on and off randomly. Sometimes it flickers.

Neutral light goes off when I disconnect the wire at the switch but if I touch the switch wire against the gear change splined shaft the light goes on again.

Anyone good with electrics and suggestions?

cakey · « **Reply #7 on:** October 09, 2014, 04:28:09 AM »

With the wire not connected to the neutral switch. I get continuity between the switch and ground in neutral and no continuity in gear.

With the wire connected to the switch switch I get continuity all the time wether in gear or not.

I don't know what this means. Or which way the test was done correctly. Wire on or wire off.

martin99 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 09, 2014, 04:50:49 AM »

I'm pretty sure the neutral switch for the CB750 and GL1000 have the same part number. Easiest thing to do would be to take the switch out of the Wang and try it in the 750 and see if that cures that problem.

cakey · « **Reply #9 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:01:25 AM »

It's only a Wang whilst in Japan!

Just kidding. I have a spare neutral switch to try. I just didn't want to drop the oil after 21 miles. Oil light still playing up when moving the switch. It's a new wiring loom and new switch.

Maybe the reving changing the light was just vibration moving something. Hopefully on a good note it means the engines not going to seize shortly. I'd rather electrical than mechanical fault in this instance.

70CB750 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 09, 2014, 05:59:39 PM »

Get an oil presure gauge to actually know what the pressure is. The light is on/off around 7 psi. Gauge will tell you more. When I idle at oil pressure 20 psi, i consider the engine completely warmed up - with 20w50 oil.

cakey · « **Reply #11 on:** October 09, 2014, 06:53:17 PM »

Makes really good sense what your saying. I have couple of problems being I don't have a parts bike so if I mess up that big nut cap that is above the pints plate then I don't have another to replace it. The head looks angled and wants too round off. Also I don't know the thread size. If I could get something here in Darwin then I would but I can't do that until I know what the thread is. Then I could put on and off as I wanted.

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #12 on:** October 09, 2014, 08:22:22 PM »

Quote from: cakey on October 09, 2014, 06:53:17 PM

Makes really good sense what your saying. I have couple of problems being I don't have a parts bike so if I mess up that big nut cap that is above the pints plate then I don't have another to replace it. The head looks angled and wants too round off. Also I don't know the thread size. If I could get something here in Darwin then I would but I can't do that until I know what the thread is. Then I could put on and off as I wanted.

Should be 17 mm, put a six point box end wrench on it.

Make sure the little screws that tightens down the oil and neutral lights are in place. The neutral is prone to screwing out after screwing with it. Another place for the wires to get inadvertently grounded is the sprocket cover. If you aren't careful it will pinch them and trigger the light

cakey · « **Reply #13 on:** October 09, 2014, 10:29:29 PM »

I can get a 2" mechanical oil pressure gauge here in Darwin with 1/4 BSP thread. They can give me an adapter but I need to know the thread size to go into the crankcase. Anyone know the size. I don't want to drill and tap into the cap in case I need it again.

They said that they had 18 and 20mm adapters by 1.5 so I am hoping its one of these. ANYONE?

??

70CB750 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 10, 2014, 01:37:57 AM »

M20x1.5 is the thread of the plug. Some people just tap the original but there isnot much meat. Replacement is much better.

cakey · « **Reply #15 on:** October 10, 2014, 02:10:14 AM »

Should be 17 mm, put a six point box end wrench on it.

Make sure the little screws that tightens down the oil and neutral lights are in place. The neutral is prone to screwing out after screwing with it. Another place for the wires to get inadvertently grounded is the sprocket cover. If you aren't careful it will pinch them and trigger the light
[/quote]

I will check the sprocket cover out for pinches. It was 14mm but I rounded it off on the first go.

Quote from: 70CB750 on October 09, 2014, 05:59:39 PM

Get an oil presure gauge to actually know what the pressure is. The light is on/off around 7 psi. Gauge will tell you more. When I idle at oil pressure 20 psi, i consider the engine completely warmed up - with 20w50 oil.

You beat me too it 70CB750. Just got it off. It doesn't look pretty but I am guessing that by tomorrow I should have a gauge installed.

Bit disappointed about the oil though. I just bought 20lt drum of the 15-40 but if the 20-50 or similar is the way to go then so be it.

Wobbly · « **Reply #16 on:** October 10, 2014, 02:49:16 AM »

Quote

Bit disappointed about the oil though. I just bought 20lt drum of the 15-40 but if the 20-50 or similar is the way to go then so be it.

There is nothing wrong with the 15-40.

cakey · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2014, 04:00:47 PM »

Oil warning light fixed I think, thanks AJK

The one on the left is what was in it and the black plastic in the middle was free spinning. The one on the right is out of one of my GL1000's and is the same part number for this bike. I put one of those in and I have the oil light back consistently now. Still heading off soon after I have a crack at the neutral light to go get the pressure gauge to put on. It's extra insurance and I should be able to put on or off as I desire. Happy days. Neutral switch here I come.

cakey · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2014, 05:22:35 PM »

So that's why when you order new parts from overseas you accidentally order two neutral switches and kick yourself at the time. But when one of the new ones is faulty you can just swap it over instead of waiting weeks for a new one.

Can't beleive a new switch was faulty. Swapped it around with my other spare new one and it's working again. I will keep it to pull apart and clean. Maybe it got a bit of crap in it from the build?

Also made a little tool from one of those multi tools that you get when you buy a kids toy or bike and have to put it together. Just cut the ends off and got rid of the size I didn't need and then rounded off the end with a grinder. It had a ring end and open end. I could bend it by hand so it got in between the fram and case to get to that 10mm bolt. It made life a breeze.

Oil light fixed
Neutral light fixed
Leaking Darby fixed
Putting on a couple of small inline filters for the fuel line to see if that stops the surging.

Nic · « **Reply #19 on:** October 10, 2014, 05:39:45 PM »

Quote from: Wobbly on October 10, 2014, 02:49:16 AM

Quote
Bit disappointed about the oil though. I just bought 20lt drum of the 15-40 but if the 20-50 or similar is the way to go then so be it.
There is nothing wrong with the 15-40.

There is if you live in Darwin. 30C+ all year round.

cakey · « **Reply #20 on:** October 10, 2014, 06:00:02 PM »

Quote from: Nic on October 10, 2014, 05:39:45 PM

Quote from: Wobbly on October 10, 2014, 02:49:16 AM
Quote
Bit disappointed about the oil though. I just bought 20lt drum of the 15-40 but if the 20-50 or similar is the way to go then so be it.
There is nothing wrong with the 15-40.
There is if you live in Darwin. 30C+ all year round.

Come on Nic, it doesn't get that cold

Nic · « **Reply #21 on:** October 10, 2014, 07:09:19 PM »

I seem to remember one day not long ago it was 28

cakey · « **Reply #22 on:** October 10, 2014, 11:35:27 PM »

No luck with inline filters, couldn't get them to fit in. Will worry about another day.

Gauge works great. I went for a bit bigger gauge instead of small but it really appeals to me. Sits at 65 at start up and then starts to come down a bit. It was 1/4 BSP thread down onto brass elbow and the into the brass 20 x 1.5 adaptor into the case. I normally don't like anything aftermarket on my bikes I like the original look but IMO I think it would have been an awesome factory extra at the time, just makes it look mean. Love it. Two years of bloody nuckles, sore elbows and throwing cash at it and today I can say it's finished...............for now

Nic · « **Reply #23 on:** October 11, 2014, 12:02:34 AM »

Good one mate, make sure to keep the threaded cap in the tool kit under the seat just in case you lay it down on the right side the gauge will more than likely be snapped off so you'll need to put the cap back in, better keep a spanner that will undo the fitting too.

cakey · « **Reply #24 on:** October 11, 2014, 12:28:14 AM »

Yeah Nic, if I lay it down on the right side I can use that right size spanner to stab myself through the heart. But your correct I should keep the cap in the kit. LOL

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Author Topic: A few problems to think about after first ride. (Read 5226 times)

Wobbly

Nic

Nic

Nic