Topic: Any other mods I should do while its apart?

[bambuhiphop]

As the title states I am looking for some advice on anything else I should do to the engine internals while it is apart. I am still a good month away from putting it back together and at this point this project will be done when it's done.

What I have so far:
- lightened crank from APE
- new primary chain
- new clutch
- new cam chain, guide and slipper
- adjustable cam sprocket
- DP592/61s pistons
- Yoshi billet A grind cam
- motogpwerks 4 into 1 stainless exhaust
- case decked, cylinders bored and honed
- rebuilt starter
- hondaman digital ignition  --- No more late posting for me. Should say "Electric Transistorized" ---
- HD studs and nuts
- all new seals and rubber
- stainless steel case bolts

Upcoming on the purchase list:
- CR26 carbs from burning barn
- Stage 3 head from Mike
- glyptal interior of case

Thoughts in my head:
- undercutting the trans gears
- Carrillo Rods (just so flippin expensive)
- hard weld rockers or coating
- oil cooler and remote oil filter (it gets hot here)

[Sam Green Racing]

Put the thoughts that are in your head on the Upcoming purchase list.
You will have already spent a lot of money tuning, spend some on reliability.

Sam.

[calj737]

And treat your pistons with DFL and Cermet.

[Lostboy Steve]

And treat your pistons with DFL and Cermet.

+1 I did cerakote piston coat and microslick on my 550 valves and pistons.

[MRieck]

Hondaman digital ignition? I thought it used mechanical points?? Did he make a new plate and pick ups??

[bambuhiphop]

@Sam - The oil cooler was a for sure. The others, aside from rockers, I just recently learned about. I am still struggling with the cost on the Carrillo Rods. I don't really know much about them. Is there another alternative with helping the stock rods or just wasting time at that point?

@ Cal - Not familiar with DFL and Cermet. I can search but would you be able to expand?

@MRieck - I meant to say electric (transistorized)... No more late posting for me.

Anything I don't have on my list I should look to add?

[MRieck]

@Sam - The oil cooler was a for sure. The others, aside from rockers, I just recently learned about. I am still struggling with the cost on the Carrillo Rods. I don't really know much about them. Is there another alternative with helping the stock rods or just wasting time at that point?

@ Cal - Not familiar with DFL and Cermet. I can search but would you be able to expand?

@MRieck - I meant to say electric (transistorized)... No more late posting for me.

Anything I don't have on my list I should look to add?

It's cool....I was just poking fun.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Stock rods should be fine on the little guys.

[calj737]

DFL is dry film lubricant. It gets sprayed onto the skirts to provide constant lubrication to the piston and protect the sleeves from cold start, and decrease friction.

Cermet is a thermal reflective coating that is applied to the top of the piston. It's primary function is to reflect heat from the combustion event back up towards the head, and insulate the oil from the case from absorbing heat thru the piston. Protects pre-detonation also.

You can go 1 step further and shoot an oil shed coating on the underside of the piston and this prevents hot oil from the case from clinging to the piston, absorbing more heat, and thereby transferring that heat to the oil.

All these coatings are about longevity and thermal control of the oil/piston.

[bambuhiphop]

Stock rods should be fine on the little guys.

I reached out to get current prices on the carrillo's but I am thinking I can get away with shot peen and a magnuflux of the stock rods. Perhaps then I could just pick up the CARR bolts to use with the stock rods...

[bambuhiphop]

DFL is dry film lubricant. It gets sprayed onto the skirts to provide constant lubrication to the piston and protect the sleeves from cold start, and decrease friction.

Cermet is a thermal reflective coating that is applied to the top of the piston. It's primary function is to reflect heat from the combustion event back up towards the head, and insulate the oil from the case from absorbing heat thru the piston. Protects pre-detonation also.

You can go 1 step further and shoot an oil shed coating on the underside of the piston and this prevents hot oil from the case from clinging to the piston, absorbing more heat, and thereby transferring that heat to the oil.

All these coatings are about longevity and thermal control of the oil/piston.

Thanks Cal, just what I needed to know. I will look into who could do this in the area and get some costs.

[teebee67]

Take a look at the Cycle X Superods - much cheaper than Carrillos.

[bambuhiphop]

Thanks teebee. I will look into those.

[turboguzzi]

quite few of us road racing 500/550/600 with stock rods without problems: me, bwaller, colin. unlike the 750 they hold just fine, often saw 13,000 in my 500.

teebee are you sure that cycle x do super rods for 500/550?

in my experience a big chunk of power and above all, resistance against detonation will depend on the squish band you are managing to create. not familiar with the crown of those DP592, maybe post a pic? in a big bore 550 they should have an initial flat band and then a 15 degs slope that closely follows (like 0.8-1mm) the head.

[bambuhiphop]

Super Rods are not available for the 500/550. Only the 750's as I found out today.

I have been chatting with Pat from APE this morning and I am going to send my rods down to them to be shot peened. I will then get some new bolts. Maybe the CARR's or the F2's that I have been starting to read about...

Here is a pic of the pistons from Dynoman's website.

[01Thomas]

I've had good success with shotpeened and polished conrods. My Moto Guzzi 1000 sees 10 000 rpm regularly - and it now has about 100 000 km on the clock. That's pretty good going for two heavy 500cc slugs going up & down rapidly.

[bambuhiphop]

Could I confirm some part numbers for the conrod bolts and nuts. These are what I understand the F2 part numbers to be that will work with the 550 stock rods, correct?

Bolt: Not sure what the difference is between the two part numbers??

13213-410-003 (Bike Bandit has this one) $4.71 each or 13213-KV0-000 (Not listed on Bike Bandits site but is on cmsnl)

Nut: 13214-410-003

[turboguzzi]

if that's how the crown looks am a bit afraid that all you can try to do is get a some squish just form the flat area. the bump in the middle will be too far from th e15 degs slope surface in the head to get any squish.  will try to dig some pics form my kawasaki racer build to explain....

I've had good success with shotpeened and polished conrods. My Moto Guzzi 1000 sees 10 000 rpm regularly - and it now has about 100 000 km on the clock. That's pretty good going for two heavy 500cc slugs going up & down rapidly.

hei thomas, i have a le mans III, like to rev her but would would never dream of taking her to 10K, and dont think shell rev that high anyway..... knowing the Veglia clocks accuracy, i'd say yours might be a bit optimistic?  never mind that the revcounter's scale  ends at 9000  on my 850

[turboguzzi]

hei bambu
here are some pics of testing the squish in my 810 wiseco big bore gpz750 racer
aim for 0.9-1mm if its a street bike, racers can go down to 0.75mm
kind of self explanatory i think

[CBGhia]

Where did you score the new cam chain guide and slipper?

[bambuhiphop]

Where did you score the new cam chain guide and slipper?

Both from eBay. Not cheap.

Slipper (still some available) http://www.ebay.com/itm/221537934859?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

A different chain but from same seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-New-350-Primary-Chain-400-500-550-650-CB350F-CB400F-CB500K-23131-426-003-/321572953898?vxp=mtr

[edwardmorris]

Just and FYI for anyone interested, the seller in the links above jtmarks77 has pretty much everything but the pricing is killer on ebay. But, he's a nice guy and can work with you outside of ebay. He also works with yamiya directly. I asked him for a few things I needed I couldn't find on ebay and he had them all. After that, I've pretty much purchased every NOS piece I needed from him at significantly lower prices than those on ebay for the same items (pretty much matched my Honda dealer + small paypal surcharge). I even bought yamiya products without paying yamiya price and shipping from him.

Not trying to promote him (he does well on his own) just posting here in case someone is looking for hard to find bits at non ebay pricing..

[MiGhost]

Where did you score the new cam chain guide and slipper?

Both from eBay. Not cheap.

Do a part number search on DSS. You may get a surprise!

[CBGhia]

OMG, they have an aftermarket slipper!

https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB550K-1976-USA/part_224402/

David Silver is my hero!

[turboguzzi]

he deserves praise not only for keeping plenty of bikes on the road but also for being willing to slug it out legally with Mama Honda. Poor big H got offended by him selling quality parts at good prices and tried to block him on many ocassions. Nice of him able to find work arounds too.

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