Author Topic: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.  (Read 1031 times)

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Offline evanphi

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I'm about to get into a top-end job. Bike was a basket case assembled by PO.

Is there a way to know if I have HD studs or standard ones?


Use a torque wrench when loosening nuts and see when they let go?
--Evan

1975 CB750K "Rhonda"
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Offline Garage_guy_chris

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2014, 06:57:03 PM »
OE studs are turned down (smaller diameter) in the center between threaded ends and HD studs are the same diameter the whole length
 Found this on google Top stud is OE, bottom is heavy duty

« Last Edit: October 16, 2014, 06:59:25 PM by Garage_guy_chris »
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Offline Old Scrambler

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2014, 07:07:36 PM »
BTW..........according to a few reliable motor builds in my garage..........my motor builder, Dave Murre, relates that the original studs are more reliable and have a better design.  Note the threads are 'rolled-on' versus 'cut' and the small diameter centers are designed to stretch with the motor when hot.
Dennis in Wisconsin
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Offline ekpent

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2014, 07:08:37 PM »
Skinny in the middle stock-fat in the middle aftermarket--How do you like yours ?

Offline Don R

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2014, 07:51:38 PM »
Skinny ones need retorqued, fat ones more likely to not need retorqued.
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Offline Stev-o

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2014, 09:14:59 PM »
-How do you like yours ?


Fat on the top and skinny in the middle
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Offline mick7504

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2014, 04:33:59 AM »
Big Jays stud threads are rolled, thick in the middle and aint going nowhere.
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Offline evanphi

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2014, 05:10:12 AM »
Cool. Thanks everyone.


Also, FWIW, I like mine skinny in the middle. ;D
--Evan

1975 CB750K "Rhonda"
Delkevic Stainless 4-1 Header, Cone Engineering 18" Quiet Core Reverse Cone, K&N Filter in Drilled Airbox
K5 Crankcase/Frame, K4 Head and Cylinders, K1 Carbs (42;120;1 Turn)

She's a mix-matched (former) basket case, but she's mine.

CB750 Shop Manual (all years), searchable text PDF
Calculating the correct input circumference for digital speedometers connected to the original speedometer drive

Offline SOHC

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Re: How to tell the difference between HD and Standard cylinder studs.
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2014, 06:46:57 PM »
Every good stud uses rolled threads, from a sohc4 all the way to a 6000hp top fuel dragster. If they dont its inferior.

Seen head stud arguments all over the internet, especially in High boost Diesels. I have heard both sides of arguments that the ford originals are better and designed to stretch, and using ARP head studs that have less stretch tend to crack cylinder heads.

Experience can vary wildly, I always look at all scenarios to see if things varied, and if that was the cause of the failure.

The use of a torque lubricant, like ARP's will give much better consistent torque readings than dry, and also takes less torque to get the same result, which also keeps the studs happier, because it puts less stress on the studs.

I used the ARP lube when i built my 347 for my mustang, and it had 15,000 hard miles on it, and I never had to retorque a bolt or stud, and probably still hasnt after i sold the car.
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