Topic: Tight, Newly Installed Bearings

[1bugstains1]

I just finished installing new SKF sealed bearings in the front wheel of my CB750F with comstar wheels. When I drove the bearings in I drove them to the bottom, as the manual indicates, BUT, I had a feeling that they went in a couple of thou too far. Before I put in the axle the inner races wouldn't turn if I tried to turn them with my finger in them. I suspect that they are clamping down on the internal spacer too much. Now that the axle is in and all is assembled, I still can't turn the axle by hand, it takes a wrench on the axle to do that, although the torque required is light, say 3 pounds on the end of a 6 inch wrench. I am concerned that with that amount of friction that the bearings will overheat. Does anybody know how stiff new bearings should be?

[jerry h]

Hi,
The inner race should turn freely.  The bearings should just barely touch the spacer, but not quite.  Sounds like you drove the bearings in too far.  I've done that before too, you learn to go VERY slow when putting the second one in.  I'd remove one side, get a new bearing and try again.  Also are you only pressing on the outer race and not the inner when installing?

Take care,
jerry

[bjbuchanan]

It seems like you drove it a little too far. Spinning by finger can have some resistance bit if it binds torqued in the forks it is a little too tight. Remember that a little wivggle is okay. Set in place and try to sneak up on it

[flybox1]

How did you drive them in?
If you drove them by the inner race, and.put them out of alignment, you would have the same result....

[1bugstains1]

Thanks, everybody for the quick response. I drove them in using the old bearings up against the new bearings and tapped only on the outer race. I chilled them in the freezer first, which helped a bit. Looks like I'll have to remove one of them and try again, with a new bearing. Does anyone have any advice on how to approach the optimum insertion point without going past and getting the same result? How do I ensure that I don't get the opposite result with the whole assembly being free until seizing up when the axle is tightened on the spacer..

[bjbuchanan]

You don't have to get another bearing. Try to carefully work a flat head in there to steal just a little space. It shouldn't require enough force that you mess up the bearings. If you are really worried heat the hub to help.

I start with chilled bearings and move in no great hurry because it helps me sneak up on seating them with a little play. One time I heated the hub and froze the bearings and they sandwiched in tight from one little whack, not what I wanted. I drive the bearings until it takes light sideways pressure with a flat head screwdriver to move the inner collar. I have taken apart factory 400f hubs and the thing was practically flopping around and at the same time my one 750 was tight like I like to set it. I guess my point is that as long as it is not pinned tight or not falling out of place you are fine. Vague

[Johnie]

I did that in my early years too. I took a flat punch and lightly taped around the circle and you should be able to get a little space. Just don't wack the heck out of it. You did good though taping it in with the old bearings. I do that all the time.

[MCRider]

Thanks, everybody for the quick response. I drove them in using the old bearings up against the new bearings and tapped only on the outer race. I chilled them in the freezer first, which helped a bit. Looks like I'll have to remove one of them and try again, with a new bearing. Does anyone have any advice on how to approach the optimum insertion point without going past and getting the same result? How do I ensure that I don't get the opposite result with the whole assembly being free until seizing up when the axle is tightened on the spacer..

You're probably going to feel some resistance since it didn't go right the first time. But that's the reason one bearing "floats" It will align itself after rolling and turning and leaning in a few miles.

[Phoenix]

I just did that on the rear wheel.  I'm NO expert.  I went to Autozone and borrowed a blind bearing puller.  I gave it a couple of taps and got my space.

[754]

It probably just needs quick rap again the inner element of the bearing opposite of the one that can move, ie the one with no retainer.
 Use a soft drift or hammer handle..done.

[1bugstains1]

754:
That's exactly what I did and that did the trick. Thanks to all for their advice.