Author Topic: 1973 CB750 Four K3 -- Project "Terry's Fault" -- BUILD RESUMED (Read 61855 times)

edwardmorris · « **Reply #75 on:** January 30, 2015, 09:30:53 AM »

Oh and also, as hard as I tried, the custom exhaust work is on hold, will get back to it for bike 3 (DAMN! I've got the bad fever, already dreaming up ideas for the next one

;D). I found help with getting the cones built but no luck with getting the proper collector made. Will watch ebay for the one I was modeling mine after and go with that when I find it.

Davez134 · « **Reply #76 on:** January 30, 2015, 09:46:45 AM »

Quote from: edwardmorris on January 30, 2015, 08:47:56 AM

Ford dealership, about $50 for the red and clear. Had a local body shop do the paint as I didn't want to ship it out. They didn't want to touch anything motorcycle related like all other shops here . But after constant pestering and imploring, and the fact that it was a new tank already primed and sanded, they agreed to do it.

I hate that response "we don't do motorcycles." Just tell em it's a modified tank for your car!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #77 on:** January 31, 2015, 02:35:05 PM »

What took weeks last time, got done in half a day today. Amazing what a difference the right tools make. Don't yet have a pic but I ripped out everything I need to get the engine out. Got to the points and found a dyna installation instead. I couldn't figure out how to separate it from the advancer so pulled it as well and put the banged up cover back on. Look at the amazing plumbing silicone seal gasket

Also, the friggin rear grab rail is welded to the damned frame

edwardmorris · « **Reply #78 on:** January 31, 2015, 03:41:42 PM »

Bit of a snag with the controls. Turns out the K4 controls (that came with my K2) I had have been modified to let the wires through instead of snaking them through the handlebars. The rotten set that came with the K3 has also been modified the same way. The parts set I bought from a member here has also been modified, but differently. Instead of making a cutout on the side of the lower shell like all the other sets, the parts set has holes made at the bottom.

I hadn't decided yet but its likely I will be going with a set of custom bars. I still have the superbike bars from the K2 that seem good enough but don't have holes drilled on them. The cutout on the sides are a bit worrying, good chance water will get through. In fact I wonder if THAT is why the set on this K3 are so totally rotted beyond belief.

I pondered going with custom controls, but that seems like a lot of splicing and figuring out what does what. Also, I simply HATE having a kill switch on the LHS

What should I go with? Cutouts on the bottom of the lower shell and chance it? Perhaps use a rubber seal like the one found on the crankcakses by the points? Or find an unmolested set?

edwardmorris · « **Reply #79 on:** January 31, 2015, 08:31:48 PM »

The carbs, got to them this evening, they were stuck as you can recall and I'd pretty much given up on them. Then I consulted with James, sent him that same pic I posted here. One pic is all he had to look at and tell me EXACTLY what was wrong with them

He noticed that #3 slide was down while the others were up. He figured that the slide lifter foot bent and let go. He suggested using some WD-40 and heat. I sprayed WD-40 liberally then carefully took off the spring. The moment I took it off, all but the stuck #3 slid down buttery smooth! A little heat and gentle persuasion, the #3 slide came out, but I'm more than certain that the needle seat is shot to hell, just seeing how far down the slide was.

The carbs look like they were worked on fairly recently. Like new after market floats, valves and 40 idles, but Keihin #130 mains, possibly the needles too. Outer two bowls are chrome plated, inner two aren't and aren't right either. Gaskets look recent too. Best part is, these are 7As! No corrosion anywhere, so I might actually save these for the K2. I had a great set of 7As from Bill for the K2, but I was always bummed about the little corrosion they had on the outside of #1 and #4 bodies.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #80 on:** January 31, 2015, 08:34:36 PM »

The master cyl got the usual treatment, removed all old junk, cleaned out corrosion, Ultrasonic clean and its ready to go to Marc/Powderman for some magic.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #81 on:** February 02, 2015, 04:29:06 AM »

Got more carb parts, lots, if anything needed, Bill

edwardmorris · « **Reply #82 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:20:48 AM »

Thanks Bill, but I think I'm set with the carbs. If you recall, I bought a single 657A from you last year and fixed up the franken carb rack that came with the K2, that's the back up plan. What should I do about the controls? Do they need to be modified like above for use with non stock bars? If not, I'll be needing an unmolested set...

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #83 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:53:18 AM »

Going to look today for you. You looking for good base plate with points? Maybe work a trade or you keep Dyna for this or another one? May have different coils too. Got a few sets of stockers also, Bill

edwardmorris · « **Reply #84 on:** February 02, 2015, 08:42:23 AM »

Thanks Bill, haven't decided on the ignition yet, but check emails. Coils were black on this bike so could still be stock, will check once I dig a way through all the snow to my garage. How do you separate the advancer and this ignition?

edwardmorris · « **Reply #85 on:** February 02, 2015, 08:57:32 PM »

Started cleaning the carbs a bit, really digging the chrome bowls with matching drain screws but annoyed that only the outer two are plated

Would have used them if they were all plated even though they aren't right for the 7As. Jets cleaned out nicely, what a diff it is looking through a #105 vs a #130

edwardmorris · « **Reply #86 on:** February 07, 2015, 05:43:06 PM »

Well, tore her down almost all the way, just waiting for some buddies to show up tomorrow to get the engine out. Midst all the random metric and sae bolts jumbled all over, the biggest pain was that the front lower engine mounting long bolt was installed backward. Had to prop the engine on a jack and pull it out and install back the correct way. Looked through an open port, there is definitely no porting done whatsoever so this is most likely a stock motor. Ignore the mess in the garage, I've gotta clean it up soon

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #87 on:** February 07, 2015, 05:52:40 PM »

edward,
Even with friends, I suggest laying the bike over on its right side to remove the engine. Just remove the bolts and then slide the frame up and off the engine, instead of the other way around. To make it easier and less likely to scratch, we used SOHCRon's method and laid a couple of 2x4's on the ground. We actually went ahead and laid towels on top of the 2x4's though. (The 2x4's give you room to reach underneath the frame and remove any nuts and/or washers that need to come off.)

Plus, having it on its side means that a good portion of the weight is removed from the engine bolts you're trying to remove.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #88 on:** February 07, 2015, 06:00:04 PM »

That's what I did with the K2, works well

It is why I also went through the trouble of reinstalling the long bolt the right way.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #89 on:** February 12, 2015, 10:09:41 PM »

Buddies still haven't shown up

Got the carbs all Ultrasonically cleaned. These are easily the best looking set I have, so they're going on the K2. The second best set will go on this K3, but after some special treatment

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #90 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:09:47 AM »

Ed,
What did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
Looking Good!!!!!! I really like the chrome bowls!!!

Thanks,

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #91 on:** February 13, 2015, 12:03:38 PM »

50-50 Simple Green Pro HD and water, just like last time

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126735.msg1542350#msg1542350

tweakin · « **Reply #92 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:31:11 PM »

Carbs cleaned up well.
Is that a bloody rag under them???

Quote from: edwardmorris on February 12, 2015, 10:09:41 PM

Buddies still haven't shown up

Got the carbs all Ultrasonically cleaned. These are easily the best looking set I have, so they're going on the K2. The second best set will go on this K3, but after some special treatment

edwardmorris · « **Reply #93 on:** February 13, 2015, 10:24:52 PM »

Thanks Tige, and no, its not blood. All my bloody ones are out in the garage

That's the clean up towel from the kill switch I painted for the K2 (pic few posts above).

edwardmorris · « **Reply #94 on:** February 17, 2015, 06:41:08 PM »

The goons finally showed up, engine is out!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #95 on:** February 17, 2015, 06:42:18 PM »

Deja Vu http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126735.msg1465823#msg1465823

edwardmorris · « **Reply #96 on:** February 21, 2015, 04:34:18 PM »

Got into the engine today. Funny how (over)confident I feel doing it the second time, need to pull back and review the books before proceeding, but so far, common sense and past experience hasn't failed me.

All covers are chromed, no polish, some cover screws were forced in, I could tell from the wobble when they came out. Gordon's JIS #3 with built in impact driver made quick work of them all.

Under the cover, is a bone stock R6 cam albeit in surprisingly good shape. Someone has already centerpunched marks on the cam towers. They were torqued down pretty hard in place, had to tap them out as if breaking some kind of a seal.

The pucks, seems like the outers were holding pretty good but the inner ones let go of some oil.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #97 on:** February 21, 2015, 07:58:03 PM »

Head came off with ease, another MLS top end. The cylinders were a pain as usual, there is always that one little rusted bugger of a dowel. Only this time I kinda know what I'm doing, so wasn't that big a deal. A sumo wrestling match later they were off to reveal bone stock pistons. So much for the bling, pods, and a wiiiiiiiiiiiide 16" rear wheel, this thing was abused on stock settings

edwardmorris · « **Reply #98 on:** February 21, 2015, 08:00:04 PM »

Cylinders seem undamaged, but there is this one little corner on the head that's busted bad. High visibility too, I hope it can be fixed. Terrible shame if I have to get another one as the rest of is pretty good looking (save for all the threaded holes, I can't tell if they're all good yet).

Davez134 · « **Reply #99 on:** February 21, 2015, 10:45:11 PM »

Nice! I'm sure that fin can be fixed By a good welder. Had similar damage on my cylinders that turned out great.

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Author Topic: 1973 CB750 Four K3 -- Project "Terry's Fault" -- BUILD RESUMED (Read 61855 times)