Author Topic: 1973 CB750 Four K3 -- Project "Terry's Fault" -- BUILD RESUMED (Read 63323 times)

edwardmorris · « **Reply #75 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:20:48 AM »

Thanks Bill, but I think I'm set with the carbs. If you recall, I bought a single 657A from you last year and fixed up the franken carb rack that came with the K2, that's the back up plan. What should I do about the controls? Do they need to be modified like above for use with non stock bars? If not, I'll be needing an unmolested set...

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #76 on:** February 02, 2015, 07:53:18 AM »

Going to look today for you. You looking for good base plate with points? Maybe work a trade or you keep Dyna for this or another one? May have different coils too. Got a few sets of stockers also, Bill

edwardmorris · « **Reply #77 on:** February 02, 2015, 08:42:23 AM »

Thanks Bill, haven't decided on the ignition yet, but check emails. Coils were black on this bike so could still be stock, will check once I dig a way through all the snow to my garage. How do you separate the advancer and this ignition?

edwardmorris · « **Reply #78 on:** February 02, 2015, 08:57:32 PM »

Started cleaning the carbs a bit, really digging the chrome bowls with matching drain screws but annoyed that only the outer two are plated

Would have used them if they were all plated even though they aren't right for the 7As. Jets cleaned out nicely, what a diff it is looking through a #105 vs a #130

edwardmorris · « **Reply #79 on:** February 07, 2015, 05:43:06 PM »

Well, tore her down almost all the way, just waiting for some buddies to show up tomorrow to get the engine out. Midst all the random metric and sae bolts jumbled all over, the biggest pain was that the front lower engine mounting long bolt was installed backward. Had to prop the engine on a jack and pull it out and install back the correct way. Looked through an open port, there is definitely no porting done whatsoever so this is most likely a stock motor. Ignore the mess in the garage, I've gotta clean it up soon

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #80 on:** February 07, 2015, 05:52:40 PM »

edward,
Even with friends, I suggest laying the bike over on its right side to remove the engine. Just remove the bolts and then slide the frame up and off the engine, instead of the other way around. To make it easier and less likely to scratch, we used SOHCRon's method and laid a couple of 2x4's on the ground. We actually went ahead and laid towels on top of the 2x4's though. (The 2x4's give you room to reach underneath the frame and remove any nuts and/or washers that need to come off.)

Plus, having it on its side means that a good portion of the weight is removed from the engine bolts you're trying to remove.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #81 on:** February 07, 2015, 06:00:04 PM »

That's what I did with the K2, works well

It is why I also went through the trouble of reinstalling the long bolt the right way.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #82 on:** February 12, 2015, 10:09:41 PM »

Buddies still haven't shown up

Got the carbs all Ultrasonically cleaned. These are easily the best looking set I have, so they're going on the K2. The second best set will go on this K3, but after some special treatment

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #83 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:09:47 AM »

Ed,
What did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
Looking Good!!!!!! I really like the chrome bowls!!!

Thanks,

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #84 on:** February 13, 2015, 12:03:38 PM »

50-50 Simple Green Pro HD and water, just like last time

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126735.msg1542350#msg1542350

tweakin · « **Reply #85 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:31:11 PM »

Carbs cleaned up well.
Is that a bloody rag under them???

Quote from: edwardmorris on February 12, 2015, 10:09:41 PM

Buddies still haven't shown up

Got the carbs all Ultrasonically cleaned. These are easily the best looking set I have, so they're going on the K2. The second best set will go on this K3, but after some special treatment

edwardmorris · « **Reply #86 on:** February 13, 2015, 10:24:52 PM »

Thanks Tige, and no, its not blood. All my bloody ones are out in the garage

That's the clean up towel from the kill switch I painted for the K2 (pic few posts above).

edwardmorris · « **Reply #87 on:** February 17, 2015, 06:41:08 PM »

The goons finally showed up, engine is out!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #88 on:** February 17, 2015, 06:42:18 PM »

Deja Vu http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126735.msg1465823#msg1465823

edwardmorris · « **Reply #89 on:** February 21, 2015, 04:34:18 PM »

Got into the engine today. Funny how (over)confident I feel doing it the second time, need to pull back and review the books before proceeding, but so far, common sense and past experience hasn't failed me.

All covers are chromed, no polish, some cover screws were forced in, I could tell from the wobble when they came out. Gordon's JIS #3 with built in impact driver made quick work of them all.

Under the cover, is a bone stock R6 cam albeit in surprisingly good shape. Someone has already centerpunched marks on the cam towers. They were torqued down pretty hard in place, had to tap them out as if breaking some kind of a seal.

The pucks, seems like the outers were holding pretty good but the inner ones let go of some oil.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #90 on:** February 21, 2015, 07:58:03 PM »

Head came off with ease, another MLS top end. The cylinders were a pain as usual, there is always that one little rusted bugger of a dowel. Only this time I kinda know what I'm doing, so wasn't that big a deal. A sumo wrestling match later they were off to reveal bone stock pistons. So much for the bling, pods, and a wiiiiiiiiiiiide 16" rear wheel, this thing was abused on stock settings

edwardmorris · « **Reply #91 on:** February 21, 2015, 08:00:04 PM »

Cylinders seem undamaged, but there is this one little corner on the head that's busted bad. High visibility too, I hope it can be fixed. Terrible shame if I have to get another one as the rest of is pretty good looking (save for all the threaded holes, I can't tell if they're all good yet).

Davez134 · « **Reply #92 on:** February 21, 2015, 10:45:11 PM »

Nice! I'm sure that fin can be fixed By a good welder. Had similar damage on my cylinders that turned out great.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #93 on:** February 22, 2015, 08:20:23 PM »

I hope so, gonna ask around about that fine.

Had a few hours to kill so went right back to the engine. Took off pistons, covers, starter motor (wiring is atrocious on this one), dynamo, shifter assembly, basically everything to split the cases. The infamous four flat screws on the countershaft bearing holder. Went straight for the big boy impact driver and it made quick work of the first three. The fourth, the crosspoint basically strip on contact so had to be drilled out, thankfully without much trouble (pic1).

Next undid all the case bolts, there is just insane amounts of the powdery anti-seize from the factory (pic2).

Then the cases put up a good fight refusing to split, but eventually the seal gave in. They weren't coming apart because the tranny wasn't in neutral and somehow grabbed on to the shifter fork (OCICBW, but there was resistance). I turned the final drive sprocket to get it into neutral and they came apart.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #94 on:** February 22, 2015, 08:26:53 PM »

Before the split, I did take the clutch lifter assembly off. I could hear Terry in the back of my head yelling "Be careful and go criss cross, gently only half turn at a time

" Undid the main shaft retainer, but for some reason the nut isn't budging. I don't have the tool for it but on my K2, I gently tapped it loose with a flat head, then used a large socket with some welding wire (details somewhere in the K2 thread). This one seems to be on there pretty bad as it ain't budging. Left it for now, will order the tool for it (good to have anyway, K2 assembly is on the horizon).

Everything on the inside looks pretty good, cases have markings BBBBB, just hoping that the crank has all As, makes getting bearings easier. Notice the final drive bearings, this one has the fatso kind, and neither has a groove in it. This engine too, wasn't ever opened before so that's how they came from the factory (people following my K2 thread know what I'm talking about here), so the fiche has to be wrong.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #95 on:** March 01, 2015, 02:51:33 PM »

Emptied the cases today, all ready to head out for cleaning blasting and PC.

The little kick start bugger was being a pain as usual, had to introduce him to my good friend Wagner

Got the trans out, mineral spirits bath and bagged away. Was ready to pull the oil pump out when this drilled oil pan bolt nearly gave me a cardy

Looks like someone drilled it out at one point and reused it.

Oil pump is surprisingly clean. Thankfully the bolt wasn't drilled too deep, won't matter anyway, going all stainless.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #96 on:** March 01, 2015, 02:56:40 PM »

Having the right tools is half the battle. The clutch basket nut was on there pretty bad, had to set it up in my trusty vise and used the motion pro tool, came off after a little fight.

I distinctly remember having clearance issues using my Craftsman deep wells when removing the connecting rod bolts on the K2. Since I was removing them, I ended up using an open ended wrench to get them out. Shortly after that, I noticed that Ed Haeuser went through his K1 build and ran into the same issue. Only he thinned out his socket to make it work

. I bought that socket from him to use during my K2 assembly, but it sure came in handy today!

Finally the crank, my wish came true, its all AAAAA, meaning all green bearings

The rods are 3333 and H/2, need to look that up, but I'm glad they're all the same. K2 had them both different

edwardmorris · « **Reply #97 on:** March 15, 2015, 04:43:12 PM »

The cases, cylinders and head are at the machine shop getting cleaned and blasted. Been cleaning up bits and pieces to get to the powder coater as I find time. Covers cleaned up nicely to reveal several places where the chrome is chipping off and some rather deep gouges. Will level those out and have the coated. Was going to save the chrome tappet covers but those are the worst with the chipping

edwardmorris · « **Reply #98 on:** March 15, 2015, 04:47:00 PM »

Goodies from Marc/Powderman arrived Friday. Haven't had much time between work and taking care of my lady as she recovers from the season illness, but found some time today. Gotta love Marc's work, I told him I didn't want a stock look on the controls and he nailed it! Functions and OFFs are gloss white, parameters are flame red. Master cyl looks so naked without its decal, need to order that now.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #99 on:** March 15, 2015, 04:52:29 PM »

The lower shells for these are a big thanks to Bill Benton, this guy is AMAZING. He sent me a whole bunch of controls to figure out what I needed. The lower shells on mine were modified to fit non stock bars, so that's all I needed. Found just one that matched the LHS, and a few for RHS in Bill's inventory. Of course, I only have one left side, pressure is on, and a damn screw refuses to budge and strips. I made things worse by drilling it cockeyed

Then after a lot of cursing and crapping out, I found a machine screw, cut it to the right length and it tapped itself in there nicely. LHS is done with new sleeving, cleaned and lubed controls, nice and smooth. Have I mentioned how much I LOVE my JIS drivers and how much I HATE spring loaded balls

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Author Topic: 1973 CB750 Four K3 -- Project "Terry's Fault" -- BUILD RESUMED (Read 63323 times)