Topic: 1973 CB750 Four K3 -- Project "Terry's Fault" -- BUILD RESUMED

[calj737]

nearly everyone uses new SS fasteners in their motors unless they go back with stock. When installing, apply a small amount of AntiSieze to prevent corrosion and to prevent galling. Done, over, simple!

The issue with torque is that SS is much harder than aluminum. And too many dolts (as you know) don't understand side covers are maximum of 6-8# of torque. They grab an Allen key, stuff it into a socket head cap screw, and twist like its their first ejaculation. Next thing you know, they've torn the threads out.  Hand snug is all you need for nearly every cover. Let the seals, gaskets, o-rings do their job. Or use an "/# torque wrench if you must.

By the way, the stock zinc plated hardware have the exact same issue as SS with aluminum, so it requires the same approach. Funny how people overlook that issue, huh?

Now get back to building it up Rafi!

[edwardmorris]

I already have a set of stainless screws made by James Spillane for the covers and I think I have just about located all the bolts except for the two odd ball fat ones.

Anyway, skipped the bearing pulling for today but I did finish the modification on the tail light bracket. That was the last piece holding up a drop off at the chromer. He's gonna look at me funny when he sees that I have a tiny box this time around Sorry about just posting boring text replies, doing things the second time around I'm not terrified of ruining something so I've been pretty lazy with taking pix. I'll definitely do better during assembly 

[edwardmorris]

So some progress today, unfortunately no before pix. The swingarm has new bushings and collar from Mark, but pretty much all the tabs on it were butchered by the PO. There was a wiiiide 16" rear that probably didn't work well with the rear brake panel and stay, so not only was the stay rod bent outta shape, but the PO had bolted it on from the outside of the brackets in pic 1, then tightened it down till they crushed together, then he bent it to match the bent stay rod . Took some work on my trusty bench vice and straightened it out.

Next big fail was the end cap threaded holes. During disassembly, I found that he had forced through some poor grade SAE size bolts through the 8mmx1.25 threads  . As sihtty as that is, since he cheaped out, the threads weren't fully gone on the swingarm (tough steel). Thread chasers didn't quite cut it, so I had to use a tap with tons of lube to fix them. Tested, we're good to go there.

Next up were the upper tabs that were butchered to install a gungho chain guard. I just don't get why did he have to drill a fat-ass hole through a 6mm nut ? And to make it worse, it was cock-eyed  . Even the 8mm tap was slipping right through so I went up to the next size without looking. Now this one has a 9mmx1.25 thread on it, no idea if there's a bolt that size easily available. I don't want to tap it out to 10mm so looking for ideas here, will an 8mm helicoil do the trick? Heck, even 8mm is too large, would ideally like to bring it back to 6mm.

[edwardmorris]

Well, got to the first of the five wheel bearings today. Warmed it up with the heat gun and knocked it outta there. The metal sealed bearing, meaning someone had changed it once before. The retainer was a bit tricky to get out as there are some banged up threads (upper most) on the retainer itself, but thankfully the carrier side is ok. Ran a tap and cleaned it out even more, but will need to find a better retainer+seal for sure, not worth risking with banged up threads. This, and cleaned up a bunch more parts, little progress during the work week.

[edwardmorris]

Debating if I should use this or stick with the stocker. This goes better with the Lesters IMO, but there is a tiny gap, not sure how big an issue that is. Thoughts?

[edwardmorris]

Some findings.

[calj737]

Some findings.

Thats a first: the PO left Painter's tape on the brake panel? 

[enwri]

Or maybe,

[754]

I look at it this way.. Some guys drill holes in their backing plates.. Unless you ride a lot on dirt roads, dirt coming in is not an issue.. Water maybe , i would be careful at a carwash or after washing...

 But I often wondered, sometimes there is a lot of brake dust when removing wheel..and I dont think it helps braking.. But if its ventilated, or air can get in....maybe that dust will blow out..

[edwardmorris]

So what do you think about using a large gasket/o-ring on it to maybe partially seal it up? Moisture getting in there would be a concern. Any other ideas?

[edwardmorris]

Been working on bits here and there as I make time, so not a great deal of progress to report. The parts washer has been busy as I ready engine internals. The trans is cleaned up and put away for now, gear dogs are pretty much toast and will need back-cutting. I have some good new ones but I'm more inclined towards trying the back-cut ones this time, all depends on costs in the end I guess.

The caliper was quite the pain to take apart, right from the get go. Overtightened and fully corroded bolts were stripped at the allen heads, took the cave man approach and undid those. Of the 3 I've worked on so far, this has to be the worst brake fluid crystallization I've seen. Compressed air didn't cut it, so had to resort to the messy and wasteful grease gun approach, made quick work of it after that, and used the excess grease to lube up my trusty bench vise. All cleaned up and a couple cycles in the US cleaner its all shiny new.

Also undid the fully butchered final drive chain oiler screw. Edges were fully rounded off by some hamfist, so I took a file and reshaped it back to a hex, then took it off with a long wrench. I really don't wanna reuse it Frank, please spin me up a new one Switching out the final drive with a single-row bearing one that I got from Bill.

Young oil pump (also from Bill) cleaned up nicely without needing a single screw to be drilled out, thanks to the JIS big boy impact driver The pump is really low miles with pristine impellers and caps, and all the screws are pretty shiny. All the passages cleaned out immaculate. The big pain was getting that pesky oil seal out of the pump body. Last time I had the machine shop do it for me, even though I knew how to get it out. What a difference doing things the second time without being terrified of hurting something Also, I actually got to see the method applied by Ron when he redid Phaedrus' oil pump not too long ago. This one is ready for an Elan super-kit!

The kickstart shaft had some rust on the outside, I was concerned that it may not seal well (actually I'm still thinking about looking for a better one) but it cleaned up well. Need to double check how far in the seal sits and if it will be of any concern.

[edwardmorris]

Well, schit! My PC guy sent me home with the engine covers saying I need to get the chrome off of them first. He's cool with chrome being on steel (fenders and such) but he's convinced that PC won't last on chromed aluminum. All the engine covers except for the clutch cover have chrome on them. Not shown below is the dynamo cover, that was smashed badly and coils were toast. Got a nice replacement from Bill, and guess what? Its chromed! Anyone care to trade? (Ignore the cam chain tensioner cover).

[Restoration Fan]

What are you saying you need, Rafi?  Stator cover?

[edwardmorris]

What are you saying you need, Rafi?  Stator cover?

Have in chrome

Dynamo cover
Valve train cover
Shifter cover
Front sprocket cover
Oil filter cover

Need all the above without chrome, preferably via trade + small $$.

[edwardmorris]

Still need to sort out the engine covers, have a couple leads on individual bits but nothing concrete yet. Busy too, so not much has happened but I did make time last night to make these. I don't have a proper crimping die for this particular size so ended up taking it to a local shop and had them do the final crimp. Turned out ok I guess?

[hotdog]

Still need to sort out the engine covers, have a couple leads on individual bits but nothing concrete yet. Busy too, so not much has happened but I did make time last night to make these. I don't have a proper crimping die for this particular size so ended up taking it to a local shop and had them do the final crimp. Turned out ok I guess?

Exactly what I had the guys do at my last job. One set is on the K2 and a spare set for the next project.

Sent from my HTC_M9u using Tapatalk

[Restoration Fan]

What are you saying you need, Rafi?  Stator cover?

Have in chrome

Dynamo cover
Valve train cover
Shifter cover
Front sprocket cover
Oil filter cover

Need all the above without chrome, preferably via trade + small $$.

Let me see what I can round up for you, Rafi.  I'll get back with you next week after Christmas.  May amount to nothing but I'm pretty sure I can find a couple of those for you.

[seanbarney41]

Rafi, if I already have a chrome clutch cover, an c.f. I think I do, I will trade ya...lets see some more better pics of that valve cover...the valve covers always seem to peel first, if that one is presentable I want it and all the others

[edwardmorris]

@Ron thanks, but I think I may have it all sorted out soon here.
@Sean check PMs.

So still doing the little bits here and there, mostly cleaning out remaining bits. Took a break from that and readied the engine for PC today. Took a while to get rid of the old gasket goop and two kinds of hondabonds on the cases I took them to my local auto shop and blasted out every single nook and cranny for any remaining blast media in the threads and such. Closely going through each bit I noticed that there are a couple missed spots on the cylinders  they're going back to the machine shop tomorrow for the fix.

Anyway, brought everything back home and power washed it, stuck a garden hose through all the oil passages, then a hot water Dawn soap bath and rinse. They look so clean now I had dropped off the frame + bits at the coater's last week and brought home some of their tape for the engine. Ran it by Powderman Marc, glad to know its the good stuff and PM approved  All taped up, will be dropping these off when I go to pick up the frame and stuff. Will get the cylinders taped up soon I hope.

[edwardmorris]

More

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Rafi,
What kind of plastic are you using to mask? Will it hold up to the PC heat?

[GritCity750]

Still need to sort out the engine covers, have a couple leads on individual bits but nothing concrete yet. Busy too, so not much has happened but I did make time last night to make these. I don't have a proper crimping die for this particular size so ended up taking it to a local shop and had them do the final crimp. Turned out ok I guess?

Those hoses look great! Mind if I ask what ID size of hose and brand/type of crimp those are? The local hose shop only seems to have brass crimps, those look WAY better.

[edwardmorris]

Rafi,
What kind of plastic are you using to mask? Will it hold up to the PC heat?

TLDR??    Its a PC tape, came from the PC shop when I dropped of the frame and stuff, checked with Powderman, its good to go. Just called green PC tape I think.

Those hoses look great! Mind if I ask what ID size of hose and brand/type of crimp those are? The local hose shop only seems to have brass crimps, those look WAY better.

I don't remember exactly, I was attempting this months ago, quit after a few setbacks and only now revisited and finished it. Some info here

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145140.0.html

While I love McMaster Carr, I like Fittings and Adapters better for this as they have more sizes and types

http://fittingsandadapters.com/ststhofe.html

[edwardmorris]

Reblasted (free), re-psycho-cleaned, all taped up and ready to go. Cleaned out the oil tank as well, not too terrible insides, fogged with some heavy CRC sprays for now. Debating if I should paint it or get it coated too. Thoughts?

[edwardmorris]

Picked up frame + everything, dropped off engine + everything else. One more trip for the engine covers when they get here. Even after significant discounts for having the engine ready for preheat, it still hurts