Topic: gordons frame kit drawing

[Evening Echo]

Morning all,

I have decided to install a gordons style frame kit and I was wondering if there is a dimensioned drawing available to the forum if I was inclined to make one for myself. My newly acquired lathe (1974) could come in handy and I could do with the practice! I have had a search without success.  Could make one up but would save a bit of time if there was a drawing that available (without stepping on anyone's toes, I hope)!

Cheers
James

[Evening Echo]

Or alternatively, would someone mind measuring the minimum distance that is used, from the downtube to the newly opened section of frame (once the kit has been installed) to allow the required access?

[MCRider]

Or alternatively, would someone mind measuring the minimum distance that is used, from the downtube to the newly opened section of frame (once the kit has been installed) to allow the required access?

The info you seek is here. I've seen it. Check "Tricks and Tips" forum.

[Evening Echo]

OK, I'm a dummy! I can't find the details......will have to work it out for my own lazy @ss self!   

[754]

Let me ask you this, if you were building frame kits.. And it was part of your income. . Would you share the drawings with everyone ?

[MCRider]

OK, I'm a dummy! I can't find the details......will have to work it out for my own lazy @ss self!   

Go outside the forum to Google or IE and search. "Install Gordon's Kit" or variations. Here's a few results.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=43997.0
http://gallery.atypical.net/lr/cb750/14-gordon-kit-1/
I may have misunderstood you, thought you wanted help to instal one. If 754 got it right I'd have to agree I've never seen a diagram of the kit itself, and wouldn't expect to.

[MCRider]

Another:;
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=4363.0

[Evening Echo]

Let me ask you this, if you were building frame kits.. And it was part of your income. . Would you share the drawings with everyone ?

754, As I originally said, just asking if there was one that was freely available, not stepping on anyone's toes... I have a small lathe and for me the satisfaction in doing this bike is in what I'm learning while I'm doing it. I have done plenty of restorations before but never done anything custom and am really enjoying the fab work now. I did see your alternative, weldless version, very impressive byt the way. I decided that if I am to make it myself then the turning and milling of the Gordons style kit is within my capability.

MCRider, thanks for the links, that'll help great.

[BPellerine]

if you look closely at the gordons frame kit you will see a bunch of hardware with a theaded rod as the main function ,does not make sense to me,ie lots of metal around a threaded rod.but many use them with success.bill

[Evening Echo]

I see that the front connection can be threaded out completely, and you are just left with the threaded lug. I was thinking about moving the whole lot as far forward as possible and doing without the threaded section. I'll need to do a bit more research and measuring before I cut anything out.

[754]

Do you have a milling attachment?

[Evening Echo]

754, yes. It's an Emco Maximat 7 with a milling head. There is a couple of thou wear in the bed but it has proved very useful for making bearings and spacers and such items so far.

[Retro Rocket]

Sounds like you want the cycle X frame style kit then...?

http://www.cyclexchange.net/frame__end.htm

Half way down the page, you shouldn't need drawings to make it either...

[Evening Echo]

Eexxactleee!! That's what I was thinking and still don't grasp why the threaded bar is necessary in the original Gordons. Can anyone who has the original Gordons explain to satisfy the curiosity?

[BPellerine]

looks to me that the threaded part allows for some er error in the cuts to the frame,you can adjust after you install.bill

[floivanus]

The threaded section allows the spices to be hidded from view and still allow top end removal

[Evening Echo]

Managed to get a start this evening. I've decided to leave out the threaded section of the original Gordons Type kit as it seems to me that the joints are going to be hidden anyway by the F2 tank and it also simplifies the work.

Used a bit of stainless for the cheek plates and threaded them to take the bolts. Cut the frame and have the first turning made to check for fit etc. Now just 7 more to do.....then mill the flat sections.

[Davez134]

Eexxactleee!! That's what I was thinking and still don't grasp why the threaded bar is necessary in the original Gordons. Can anyone who has the original Gordons explain to satisfy the curiosity?

I have the Gordon frame kit in my bike. The threaded section allows for more clearance after removing the spliced part. After removing the section, you unscrew and remove that piece as well. Gives a little extra clearance when removing parts.

[Evening Echo]

Thanks Davez - could you make one measurement for me on the original kit? The distance from the underside of the downtube to the end of that threaded bung. I have the frame already cut out and am happy enough with the rear position. I am going to leave out the threaded section for sure but will move the front splice as far forward as possible. I think it will still be hidden behind the F2 tank that I am using.

[Tsunami]

Davez134 is correct, took me sometime on mine why he did it that way until I started putting the engine in.  You remove the lug for the clearance which is really needed.

[Evening Echo]

Great, Thanks for the info - confirms what i was thinking about the clearance issue. Once I have it mocked up I'll post photos of front end without the threaded section for your views.

[Evening Echo]

Managed to snatch a few minutes to have a look... think it will work out fine with the dimensions that I have used, and the splice cannot be seen. In fact I could cut it back another inch and it would still be fine. Sorry about the crappy phone photos....

[Davez134]

Thanks Davez - could you make one measurement for me on the original kit? The distance from the underside of the downtube to the end of that threaded bung. I have the frame already cut out and am happy enough with the rear position. I am going to leave out the threaded section for sure but will move the front splice as far forward as possible. I think it will still be hidden behind the F2 tank that I am using.

I can do it when I get home from work in a few hours.