Author Topic: Dual disk questions  (Read 1091 times)

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Offline theslayedsaint

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Dual disk questions
« on: November 18, 2014, 08:32:22 PM »
Ok....
For starters yes I've read almost eveything I can find on putting on dual front brakes on my 1974 cb750. However after two weeks I am still "stuck" yes literally and figuratively stuck! Ive got everything on and the right side works great but, when I add the left (there going on backwards) the whole thing becomes "stuck" it still moves but not freely. I've taken it off who knows how many times I've filled and used shims and it looks to be right but for some reason it won't move freely. Would love some thoughts or tips.
O one more thing I'm using a little different arm on the one side giving me issues. Not sure what year it's from, I was told it was 1974 but doesn't match the other one so not sure. All the holes are in the same place but it's a little thicker, making the pad come out of the housing a little more.
Thanks
1974 CB750 custom build cafe racer
-849cc big bore
-Webcam 63a
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-4-1 stainless exhaust
-GSXR front end

Offline Don R

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2014, 08:57:15 PM »
 Has the caliper been serviced and is the piston free to retract? Is the pad paralell to the rotor? Where exactly is it dragging?
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Offline theslayedsaint

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2014, 10:53:21 PM »
Yes the caliper is almost new. Cleaned and everything replaced.
And I'm not sure about the piston being free to retract. How would I how that?
And it looks like there's  just no gap for the rotor to move freely, like the pad is held on still if that makes sense.
1974 CB750 custom build cafe racer
-849cc big bore
-Webcam 63a
-APE rods
-4-1 stainless exhaust
-GSXR front end

Offline MidnightLamp

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2014, 11:11:49 PM »
Unfortunately the stock SOHC4 brake setup is of a very unusual and quirky design (being the first production one) and is not particularly set-up to do a "twin disc". the problem is that the shims need to be put correctly AND the angle of the mounts needs to be adjusted so that the two calipers are not only parallel to each other, but so that the discs are also centred in the calipers correctly. The last time I did this setup, I used two straight edges to make sure that both calipers were parallel, then matched the distance from the centre line of the rotor to the inner face of the caliper on the "second" rotor to the "first one".

This makes both pistons sit at basically the same point on the calipers and everything is just right adjustment wise. If you set it up like this you'll thank me in the long run.

If you have problems with one caliper dragging, you can also swap the calipers and see if that changes it to spot if one of the pistons is sticky on retraction. They'll stick easily if there's a little scum in the seal grooves.
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Offline theslayedsaint

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2014, 09:12:34 AM »
Thanks MidnightLamp,
Should there be a Visual gap between the rotor and caliper? And if so should I see a difference when I press and relase the brake?
1974 CB750 custom build cafe racer
-849cc big bore
-Webcam 63a
-APE rods
-4-1 stainless exhaust
-GSXR front end

Offline MCRider

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2014, 10:02:54 AM »
Thanks MidnightLamp,
Should there be a Visual gap between the rotor and caliper? And if so should I see a difference when I press and relase the brake?
You mean the rotor and the pads? If so, the proper gap betweent the B pad and the rotor is 5-6 thou. Barely visible to the trained eye. The A pad will aways drag on the rotor just a skosh. Enough to make a shooooshing sound when the wheel is turned.
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1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline theslayedsaint

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #6 on: November 19, 2014, 12:16:29 PM »
Thanks MCRider,
Should the wheel be able to spin freely when off the ground or does it always drag a little?
1974 CB750 custom build cafe racer
-849cc big bore
-Webcam 63a
-APE rods
-4-1 stainless exhaust
-GSXR front end

Offline MCRider

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2014, 01:16:20 PM »
Thanks MCRider,
Should the wheel be able to spin freely when off the ground or does it always drag a little?
It should spin reasonably free. I had mine up just recently and with a hand on the front, spinning down to the floor the wheel turns about 1.3 turns. It should "seem about right". Not too much resistance but some.

I have twin discs. You'll hear that shoosh sound of the A pad rubbing. If you tap on the caliper and get the A pad to withdraw into the caliper, the wheel will be quieter and rotate a bit more.  IF you haven't you should properly adjust the B pads.
Ride Safe:
Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
"Sometimes the light's all shining on me, other times I can barely see, lately it appears to me, what a long, strange trip its been."

Offline scottly

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2014, 05:55:08 PM »
Ok....
For starters yes I've read almost eveything I can find on putting on dual front brakes on my 1974 cb750. However after two weeks I am still "stuck" yes literally and figuratively stuck! Ive got everything on and the right side works great but, when I add the left (there going on backwards) the whole thing becomes "stuck" it still moves but not freely. I've taken it off who knows how many times I've filled and used shims and it looks to be right but for some reason it won't move freely. Would love some thoughts or tips.
O one more thing I'm using a little different arm on the one side giving me issues. Not sure what year it's from, I was told it was 1974 but doesn't match the other one so not sure. All the holes are in the same place but it's a little thicker, making the pad come out of the housing a little more.
Thanks

The thicker arm is from a K7/K8, which uses a different caliper.
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: Dual disk questions
« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2014, 06:26:20 PM »
Ok....
For starters yes I've read almost eveything I can find on putting on dual front brakes on my 1974 cb750. However after two weeks I am still "stuck" yes literally and figuratively stuck! Ive got everything on and the right side works great but, when I add the left (there going on backwards) the whole thing becomes "stuck" it still moves but not freely. I've taken it off who knows how many times I've filled and used shims and it looks to be right but for some reason it won't move freely. Would love some thoughts or tips.
O one more thing I'm using a little different arm on the one side giving me issues. Not sure what year it's from, I was told it was 1974 but doesn't match the other one so not sure. All the holes are in the same place but it's a little thicker, making the pad come out of the housing a little more.
Thanks

The thicker arm is from a K7/K8, which uses a different caliper.


+1, IMHO.
The K0-K6 caliper arm does not flare wider at the caliper. It remains the same thickness its whole length.
Also...Honda's OEM disc pads were bevelled around the edges, about 1/2" all around. Many of today's pads have (miserable) straight-flat-ground pad faces. When installing these "flat" pads, the edges may drag even when the caliper is fully retracted. On all of these 2-disc arrangements (on "K" bikes 1970-1976) the 2nd caliper sits at an angle unless you shim the whole arm in, after which you may not be able to remove the front wheel without also unbolting the caliper mount(!). So, bevelling the pad edges is a simpler 'fix' and allows a simpler installation.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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