Topic: [solved] CB550 is stumbling with electronic ignition?

[NastyNip]

Hi all,

I try to make a habit of circling back on topics I create so that people in the future can learn from my misfortune

It ended up tracking it down to being a faulty Dyna S unit that was acting up when hot. I sent it for warranty, but they sent it back saying it passed all tests, but there's no way I'm putting it back on my bike so I guess I have a cool paperweight now :/

I'm sure it was the ignition unit because since I put the old points on, the bike has been running fine daily for the past few months ever since.

Thanks for the help, you guys all rock. I bought a PAMCO system and am just waiting to find some time to install it.

[FunJimmy]

Hi all,

I try to make a habit of circling back on topics I create so that people in the future can learn from my misfortune

It ended up tracking it down to being a faulty Dyna S unit that was acting up when hot. I sent it for warranty, but they sent it back saying it passed all tests, but there's no way I'm putting it back on my bike so I guess I have a cool paperweight now :/

I'm sure it was the ignition unit because since I put the old points on, the bike has been running fine daily for the past few months ever since.

Thanks for the help, you guys all rock. I bought a PAMCO system and am just waiting to find some time to install it.

Would have been the perfect time to try the HM Transistor ignition.

[HondaMan]

When I have experienced the very same thing with Dyna S units, it has been because the pickup characteristics vary their pickup capability (distance from the magnet) with temperature. This is probably the #1 "failure mode" for the Dyna units, in my experience. Even if you manage to find the "sweet spot" of distance where it will work both hot and cold, you will find it harder to start when cold, and the timing advance wanders between cold and hot. I don't know if Dyna has a sophisticated-enough testing unit to find these things: it doesn't seem so?

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I am running Dynatek Dyna DS1-2 Ignition & DS8-1 5ohm coils, stock spark plug caps & new spark plug wires. I am also using Rick's combination Rectifier-Regulator part 10-100 which is claimed to provide a little more output than the stock Rectifier & Regulator. I am also running LED lights for everything except the headlight which is a PIAA Xtreme White Plus H4 Bulb 60/55 watt and have no electrical problems after repairing the bad electrical connections.

Electrical problems can be a pain in the arse so focus on one circuit at a time

However I have had problems with bad electrical connections, the old brass connectors being lose and even cracked causing poor performance and/or none at all. I prefer soldered connections whenever possible.

Check for loose or corroded electrical connections.

My stock coils crapped out on me causing the bike to run poorly, then only on two cylinders.

Pull a wire either 1 or 4 and then 2 or 3 attach a good spark plug to the wire, ground the plug to the engine with the engine running and see what kind of spark you have, a small weak yellow spark or a strong blue spark.

[BobbyR]

Dyna has a lot of problems and their service sucks. When you send back a bad unit, they simply power it and do a fast check. They know the problem is heat, so they power it for a minute and it passes.

The bullet connectors are meant for manufacturing ease and no great conduction. I soldered all the mid run connectors and only left those that are using to unhook a component. I picked up 2 volts at the headlight. Does not sound like much, but we don't have much to start with.