Author Topic: Front Wheel Axel Nut Removal (Read 3653 times)

cgarbe · « **on:** November 24, 2014, 08:39:41 PM »

I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the front wheel axel but on my cb400f! It just spins along with the speedometer gear box on the opposite side. Any ideas how to remove both of these parts?

MickB · « **Reply #1 on:** November 24, 2014, 08:47:05 PM »

Cgarbe stick a phillips head screw driver in the hole on the axle at the speedobox end and unscrew the nut on the other end and then pull the axle out.

cgarbe · « **Reply #2 on:** November 24, 2014, 08:51:33 PM »

Clockwise or counterclockwise?

MiGhost · « **Reply #3 on:** November 24, 2014, 09:18:47 PM »

Stev-o · « **Reply #4 on:** November 24, 2014, 09:49:55 PM »

Lefty Lucy

cgarbe · « **Reply #5 on:** November 25, 2014, 05:27:55 AM »

Ha! Thanks all. Is the front retainer nut also a "lefty loosy" removal?

MickB · « **Reply #6 on:** November 25, 2014, 09:42:48 AM »

Yes it has a left hand thread as I remember, but check under tips and tricks for information also get yourself a manual that'll answer your questions quickly.

MiGhost · « **Reply #7 on:** November 25, 2014, 09:54:25 AM »

Quote from: cgarbe on November 25, 2014, 05:27:55 AM

Ha! Thanks all. Is the front retainer nut also a "lefty loosy" removal?

Correct!

Reverse rotaion hardware is very seldom used. Only in cases where the rotaion of the shaft could cause the hardware to loosen. Wheel lug nuts on large trucks are a good example.

An oddball example would be the right mirror on some yamaha bikes. The mirror is design to loosen in case of contact with the mirror. Sort of a break away safety feature. except for the fact the nobody knows about until they have either broken, or stripped the mount. Yep, Did it myself!

cgarbe · « **Reply #8 on:** November 25, 2014, 10:50:45 AM »

Thanks MiGhost! I could have sworn that the retainer nuts were both reverse rotation. I am removing my hubs to have powder coated and replacing the bearings at the same time. I removed the rear retainer nut last night and upon removing it noticed a few shavings of fresh aluminum so I may have to replace both retainer nuts...I will post pictures tonight.

NobleHops · « **Reply #9 on:** November 25, 2014, 11:23:05 AM »

Quote from: cgarbe on November 25, 2014, 10:50:45 AM

Thanks MiGhost! I could have sworn that the retainer nuts were both reverse rotation. I am removing my hubs to have powder coated and replacing the bearings at the same time. I removed the rear retainer nut last night and upon removing it noticed a few shavings of fresh aluminum so I may have to replace both retainer nuts...I will post pictures tonight.

Did you drill out the staked spots before you removed the retainer? If you did not that would account for the shavings.

MiGhost · « **Reply #10 on:** November 25, 2014, 11:38:22 AM »

Quote from: cgarbe on November 25, 2014, 10:50:45 AM

Thanks MiGhost! I could have sworn that the retainer nuts were both reverse rotation. I am removing my hubs to have powder coated and replacing the bearings at the same time. I removed the rear retainer nut last night and upon removing it noticed a few shavings of fresh aluminum so I may have to replace both retainer nuts...I will post pictures tonight.

Make absolute sure that you inform your powdercoater that no powder inside the hub bearing surface!!

The retainers are steel. The shavings are likely from the hub if the stakes were not drilled as noted. Not major critical as long as there are still threads left to install the retainer. Chase the threads on the retainer to avoid any further damage to the hub.

Please get a length, and OD measurement of the bearing spacer inside the hub for me.

cgarbe · « **Reply #11 on:** November 25, 2014, 11:53:52 AM »

Yes, I did drill out the staked spots before I removed the retainer with a 1/16" bit...maybe I didn't drill enough out? Now i'm worried! Any idea what size chase the retainer uses? Should I also chase the hub?

MiGhost: do you want the front or rear hub spacer measurement?

cgarbe · « **Reply #12 on:** November 25, 2014, 12:41:23 PM »

You know, I might just purchase new front and rear retainers...they are only a few bucks from 4into1.com. Do you think I should chase the hub still?

MiGhost · « **Reply #13 on:** November 25, 2014, 01:07:59 PM »

Yes on the measurements for the wheel spacers.

Chasing the threads on the hub will lead to more damage. The aluminum is soft, and very limited space to work in. If the retainer does not thread in. It will require more than chasing threads to fix.

NobleHops · « **Reply #14 on:** November 25, 2014, 04:33:31 PM »

Given that you were getting some swarf when you removed those, I would say a new retainer is a good idea. If you run your finger along the one you removed you're likely to find some sharp burrs along the edge where they were staked. If you were to put those back in they'd do more damage, or cross-thread.

With a new unmolested retainer you stand a better chance of getting it to thread in there cleanly.

cgarbe · « **Reply #15 on:** November 26, 2014, 10:23:25 AM »

I am having trouble removing the front retainer nut! Any ideas how to get this thing out? My tool wouldn't budge it so I got out the hammer and punch to hammer it out and it still isn't budging! Any ideas?

MCRider · « **Reply #16 on:** November 26, 2014, 10:36:06 AM »

Quote from: cgarbe on November 26, 2014, 10:23:25 AM

I am having trouble removing the front retainer nut! Any ideas how to get this thing out? My tool wouldn't budge it so I got out the hammer and punch to hammer it out and it still isn't budging! Any ideas?

My experience has been, after drillling out the stakes, and an initial tap to break past the stakes, you can almost turn it out by hand. Can't tell in the pic for sure, but I think your stakes need more drilling, Turn the ring back to where they line up, then redrill bigger and deeper.

NobleHops · « **Reply #17 on:** November 26, 2014, 10:45:47 AM »

You need to pry out that seal first. Use your biggest flat screwdriver, maybe something to use as a fulcrum, and that will pop out.That will make removal of the retainer a lot easier, after you drill it.

MickB · « **Reply #18 on:** November 26, 2014, 12:46:35 PM »

The retainers are designed to be used only once as they are very soft.
Get a replacement as yours is shot.

MiGhost · « **Reply #19 on:** November 26, 2014, 11:36:53 PM »

Quote from: MickB on November 26, 2014, 12:46:35 PM

Get a replacement as yours is shot.

+1 Time to deffiantely replace that one.

cgarbe · « **Reply #20 on:** November 28, 2014, 07:02:28 AM »

Yes, I have already ordered replacements for both the front and rear retaining nuts.

MiGhost: I will get the measurements for you either today or tomorrow...sorry been busy with family in town for Thanksgiving.

cgarbe · « **Reply #21 on:** November 29, 2014, 09:07:16 PM »

Update! Finally got the retaining ring out! Pain in my ass but it's out! Now I can't get the bearings out. There's not enough space to get a screwdriver onto the lip of the bearing. Probably need to go buy one of those expanding nuts. At least the retainer is out...baby steps.

NobleHops · « **Reply #22 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:21:15 AM »

Dude, I mean to be helpful here. Before you go reefing on wheel bearings with screwdrivers (otherwise known as "destroying your screwdriver") or removing bearing retainers with hammers, you should spend an evening with your laptop and a cup of coffee and read a half dozen build threads here, get acquainted with some of the tools and techniques that people use successfully. I'm all for wading in to the unknown, do it all the time myself, but you'll have more fun and get more done if you plan your moves with a bit more advance knowledge.

In this case you need a blind bearing removal tool, motion pro and Tusk both sell popular styles. You can find either on Amazon. You can use a long drift of some style and poke those out from behind, but that's a bit trickier.

The search tool on this site sucks, try this to use Google to search this site:

Site:www.sohc4.net bearing removal

And

Site:www.sohc4.net bearing driver

You get the idea. Search>read>ask>try

N.

Stev-o · « **Reply #23 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:41:47 AM »

+1 using the proper tool and technique goes a long way.

MCRider · « **Reply #24 on:** November 30, 2014, 09:01:53 AM »

Really. I'm glad you got it out of course. But take it from one who has mangled a few. IF done properly, drilled, and a leverage type pin wrench used rather than a punch and hammer, they wiill come out virtually unmolested, and easily reused.

The pin wrench can be a storbought type or a flat bar strap stock about a foot+ long, with two strategicallly placed short bolts, less the $3, piece of cake.

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Author Topic: Front Wheel Axel Nut Removal (Read 3653 times)