Author Topic: Painting the master cylinder  (Read 14737 times)

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Offline oldhatt45

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #25 on: November 30, 2014, 12:29:03 PM »
Eric,

So why don't you tell us how you really feel!  ROFLMAO :) :) :)

Charlie
PS:  I agree!

Offline 750cafe

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #26 on: November 30, 2014, 08:23:24 PM »
I will never build another one of these paint shakers without CASH UP FRONT over my estimated costs!!!
They can use bubble gum and baseball bats and do it themselves for all I care! They usually only trailer their junk to shows anyway so why bother getting them to run?
Polishing compound and a pirate wardrobe is all that is required besides the purchase.

Eric
Is there anything more fun than riding? They are between your legs and are quiet when you turn them off.

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #27 on: December 01, 2014, 02:49:57 PM »
Use DOT 5 ... Problem solved

Offline Muckinfuss

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #28 on: December 02, 2014, 10:11:18 AM »
refer to the threads on DOT 5 and 5.1 before going down that rabbit hole.
1984 Sportster 1000cc XL
1988 Heritage Softail
1974 CB550
1989 Corvette

Offline Powderman

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #29 on: December 02, 2014, 12:12:45 PM »
Here's one of 2 that I did lately. Blasted and coated in a Matte Black.



Offline chewbacca5000

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #30 on: December 02, 2014, 12:36:27 PM »
Hey Powderman that looks really good did you give it a clear top coat?  Where can I get some of that matte black?

Offline 70CB750

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #31 on: December 02, 2014, 01:18:27 PM »
Wasnt the MC originally eloxed - hmm, language barrier here - ElOx as electrolytical oxidation.  It holds better than paint on Aluminum.

Offline chewbacca5000

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #32 on: December 02, 2014, 02:31:00 PM »
Wasnt the MC originally eloxed - hmm, language barrier here - ElOx as electrolytical oxidation.  It holds better than paint on Aluminum.

Originally it was anodized.  This is also an option if you can find someone to do it.  I would not worry about powdercoat having issues adhering to the MC as pros like powder-man know exactly what to do to make things work correctly.

Swoop

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #33 on: December 02, 2014, 03:21:28 PM »
refer to the threads on DOT 5 and 5.1 before going down that rabbit hole.


I did ....you?

Offline Powderman

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #34 on: December 02, 2014, 04:26:07 PM »
If you look closely at the pic of it bare you will see the blast profile and how we are coating virgin metal. Adhesion is no problem at all. When done correctly only one coat is preferred(thanks for the kudoes Chewie). Why would you put a clear coat on it, especially if it is a matte finish?

Get the Tuscan Black Matte here:
http://powder365.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_19&products_id=216

The second one I did unfortunately had a plastic cap which needed to be painted. I hate having to paint things.
« Last Edit: December 02, 2014, 04:32:26 PM by Powderman »

Offline seanbarney41

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #35 on: December 02, 2014, 04:42:57 PM »
I am guessing that Chewie asked about clear coat because the original finish was much shinier than that...I am not knocking your powdercoat, it looks great, exactly like what is usually seen from anodyzing
If it works good, it looks good...

Offline edwardmorris

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #36 on: December 02, 2014, 04:51:47 PM »
That my MC up there!  8) 8) 8)

Here is another pic, after I put a stock text sticker on the lid. The Tuscan Matte looks way better in person than pix btw


Offline 70CB750

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #37 on: December 02, 2014, 05:54:46 PM »
Wasnt the MC originally eloxed - hmm, language barrier here - ElOx as electrolytical oxidation.  It holds better than paint on Aluminum.

Originally it was anodized.  This is also an option if you can find someone to do it.  I would not worry about powdercoat having issues adhering to the MC as pros like powder-man know exactly what to do to make things work correctly.

I think elox is what we call anodizing, basically adding a color to surface oxides.

Offline chewbacca5000

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2014, 05:29:20 AM »
I am guessing that Chewie asked about clear coat because the original finish was much shinier than that...I am not knocking your powdercoat, it looks great, exactly like what is usually seen from anodyzing

I was thinking for added protection against drips. 

Offline chewbacca5000

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #39 on: December 03, 2014, 05:31:21 AM »
That my MC up there!  8) 8) 8)

Here is another pic, after I put a stock text sticker on the lid. The Tuscan Matte looks way better in person than pix btw



That really looks great.  The decal finishes things off nicely where did you get the decal for the cap.  I want one you got any extras?

Offline Stoli

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2014, 06:07:10 AM »
My Project Threads:
Project #1 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=117106.0  First bike
Project #2 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=127364.0  Something different
Project #3 - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=123831.0  Long and Low

Offline Muckinfuss

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #41 on: December 03, 2014, 09:33:28 AM »
refer to the threads on DOT 5 and 5.1 before going down that rabbit hole.


I did ....you?


I guess "hot shot" says it all.  I didn't pee in your Cheerios or slam you....I suggested that he make up his own mind based on readily available comments both pro and con....  So, unless you have 50 years at the track as a rider, driver and owner plus a chemical engineering degree and own a company that does research under contract to automotive and poly film manufacturer's, I may have a leg up on you about this topic.  Let's just leave it that not one single race track...bike or car, allows DOT5 to be used in sanctioned racing....and that's what the fluid was originally developed for.  Harley was the only manufacturer that tried to use it....and stopped in 2005 after 7 years of specifying its use.  No car manufacturer has ever specified DOT 5 for use because of the ABS tendency to foam it and lose all braking. The European M/C mfr's who spec 5....are specifying 5.1 because it can be used with their ABS systems.  It's glycol + borates....just like 3 and 4.  Borates raise the boiling point.

The US military specifies DOT 5 due to the long term storage of the vehicle pool....however, if you know someone who is in the motor pool....give them a call and be prepared to listen to how much hatred there is from drivers over the use of DOT 5.  There are reports of having to use paint filters when adding to the master due to 'gummy bears' in the cans.

A "+1" doesn't really get to the point, in my opinion.  DOT 5 is easier on paint at three to four times the cost of the alternatives.  DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 have 3-4 yr. life cycles, so you would be messing with the fluid, max, three times over a ten year period....if diligent about it.  5...maybe twice.

As with any product there are several trade-offs to consider:
Silicone fluids are not miscible with water. It’s the classic oil and vinegar scenario. DOT 5 Silicone, being less dense, tends to float on water. Therefore, if water ever entered the system, ...which it does through osmosis of the hydraulics's soft materials and most comes from the vent in the master cylinder cap and resultant condensation in the air space above the fluid., would collect at the lowest point, meaning the bottom of the caliper. Water in the bottom of the caliper could be hard to get out without removing the caliper and rotating the caliper to place the bleed nipple at the lowest point.  Not many who use 5 are aware they have to do this.....so they don't.  Without non-corrosive materials, such as Phenolic pistons etc. there is a higher risk of corrosion welding than if using straight glycol based products.  They suspend the moisture in their entire volume until that absorption capacity is exceeded.   If you are going to have water in your brake fluid, you actually want it dispersed throughout the fluid because it minimizes the chance of corrosion caused by localized pockets of water. It also prevents a pocket of water in a caliper boiling, which would occur around 212ºF, much lower than the boiling point of the brake fluid.  A heavy braking situation can cause rotor to pad contact heat of 1000F.

In addition, the stopping ability of a system can be compromised since Silicone based brake fluids do compress...especially at higher operating temperatures.  I wouldn't really consider that much of a problem on a street bike.....unless doing a lot of frequent heavy braking.  DOT 5 is more compressible because it will absorb more air than a glycol based fluid. The air is in solution, and should not be confused with air bubbles. The dissolved air gives a slightly spongy pedal feel, which most people cannot detect. It makes silicone fluid a poor choice for racing, but it is considered an appropriate choice for a classic that is not driven daily. Bleeding systems with silicone takes more time and may have to be repeated because it takes time for the air to works its way out.

1984 Sportster 1000cc XL
1988 Heritage Softail
1974 CB550
1989 Corvette

Offline chewbacca5000

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #42 on: December 03, 2014, 10:04:40 AM »
Might be a better idea to break off the Dot 3,4,5 and 5.1 off into it's own thread?  Think it is worth it's own discussion.  It would be nice to have a cheat sheet for when to use each product.  ie. best fluid for stainless pistons.  Just an idea.

Offline edwardmorris

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #43 on: December 03, 2014, 10:49:19 AM »
That my MC up there!  8) 8) 8)

Here is another pic, after I put a stock text sticker on the lid. The Tuscan Matte looks way better in person than pix btw



That really looks great.  The decal finishes things off nicely where did you get the decal for the cap.  I want one you got any extras?
It was on ebay from a UK seller, a bit pricey IMO so I only ordered the one, sorry.

Swoop

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #44 on: December 03, 2014, 10:55:33 AM »
refer to the threads on DOT 5 and 5.1 before going down that rabbit hole.


I did ....you?



I guess "hot shot" says it all.  I didn't pee in your Cheerios or slam you....I suggested that he make up his own mind based on readily available comments both pro and con....  So, unless you have 50 years at the track as a rider, driver and owner plus a chemical engineering degree and own a company that does research under contract to automotive and poly film manufacturer's, I may have a leg up on you about this topic.  Let's just leave it that not one single race track...bike or car, allows DOT5 to be used in sanctioned racing....and that's what the fluid was originally developed for.  Harley was the only manufacturer that tried to use it....and stopped in 2005 after 7 years of specifying its use.  No car manufacturer has ever specified DOT 5 for use because of the ABS tendency to foam it and lose all braking. The European M/C mfr's who spec 5....are specifying 5.1 because it can be used with their ABS systems.  It's glycol + borates....just like 3 and 4.  Borates raise the boiling point.

The US military specifies DOT 5 due to the long term storage of the vehicle pool....however, if you know someone who is in the motor pool....give them a call and be prepared to listen to how much hatred there is from drivers over the use of DOT 5.  There are reports of having to use paint filters when adding to the master due to 'gummy bears' in the cans.

A "+1" doesn't really get to the point, in my opinion.  DOT 5 is easier on paint at three to four times the cost of the alternatives.  DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 have 3-4 yr. life cycles, so you would be messing with the fluid, max, three times over a ten year period....if diligent about it.  5...maybe twice.

As with any product there are several trade-offs to consider:
Silicone fluids are not miscible with water. It’s the classic oil and vinegar scenario. DOT 5 Silicone, being less dense, tends to float on water. Therefore, if water ever entered the system, ...which it does through osmosis of the hydraulics's soft materials and most comes from the vent in the master cylinder cap and resultant condensation in the air space above the fluid., would collect at the lowest point, meaning the bottom of the caliper. Water in the bottom of the caliper could be hard to get out without removing the caliper and rotating the caliper to place the bleed nipple at the lowest point.  Not many who use 5 are aware they have to do this.....so they don't.  Without non-corrosive materials, such as Phenolic pistons etc. there is a higher risk of corrosion welding than if using straight glycol based products.  They suspend the moisture in their entire volume until that absorption capacity is exceeded.   If you are going to have water in your brake fluid, you actually want it dispersed throughout the fluid because it minimizes the chance of corrosion caused by localized pockets of water. It also prevents a pocket of water in a caliper boiling, which would occur around 212ºF, much lower than the boiling point of the brake fluid.  A heavy braking situation can cause rotor to pad contact heat of 1000F.

In addition, the stopping ability of a system can be compromised since Silicone based brake fluids do compress...especially at higher operating temperatures.  I wouldn't really consider that much of a problem on a street bike.....unless doing a lot of frequent heavy braking.  DOT 5 is more compressible because it will absorb more air than a glycol based fluid. The air is in solution, and should not be confused with air bubbles. The dissolved air gives a slightly spongy pedal feel, which most people cannot detect. It makes silicone fluid a poor choice for racing, but it is considered an appropriate choice for a classic that is not driven daily. Bleeding systems with silicone takes more time and may have to be repeated because it takes time for the air to works its way out.

And I did not slam you.....merely responded to your suggestion of searching the threads on this forum for information on the topic. What i found were mostly positive and wondered if you had found it otherwise.
Then you start blathering info that I doubt is found on this forum.
Have a nice day ;-)
Steve

Offline SohRon

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #45 on: December 03, 2014, 11:10:52 AM »
POR-15. Tough, beautiful and resistant to chemicals!


"He slipped back down the alley with some roly-poly little bat-faced girl..."

Assembling my '74 CB550: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=86697.0
Assembly of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide):  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80532.0
Installing stock 4X4 exhaust: CB500-CB550 K: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=82323.0
CB550 Assembly Manual: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151576.0.html

Offline chewbacca5000

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #46 on: December 03, 2014, 01:17:24 PM »
Woozers!  That came out fantastic.  I like it alot.

Offline scottly

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #47 on: December 03, 2014, 05:36:09 PM »
Therefore, if water ever entered the system, ...which it does through osmosis of the hydraulics's soft materials and most comes from the vent in the master cylinder cap and resultant condensation in the air space above the fluid.
What vent in the MC cap?? There is no vent open to the surface of the fluid; the rubber diaphragm displaces most of the air, and seals against the top of the reservoir when the cap is tightened. 
Don't fix it if it ain't broke!
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Offline SohRon

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #48 on: December 03, 2014, 05:57:14 PM »
Woozers!  That came out fantastic.  I like it alot.


That's the POR-15 Blackcote. Comes in a spray can and is tough as nails when cured.

The decal for the cap came with the "Warning Kit" from CB Decals.com
"He slipped back down the alley with some roly-poly little bat-faced girl..."

Assembling my '74 CB550: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=86697.0
Assembly of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide):  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80532.0
Installing stock 4X4 exhaust: CB500-CB550 K: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=82323.0
CB550 Assembly Manual: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151576.0.html

Offline Powderman

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Re: Painting the master cylinder
« Reply #49 on: December 03, 2014, 08:09:01 PM »
I am guessing that Chewie asked about clear coat because the original finish was much shinier than that...I am not knocking your powdercoat, it looks great, exactly like what is usually seen from anodyzing
The anodize was completely faded when I got it so had no reference on what was original. He picked the color and gloss level. I would use something different for restoration, usually a 55% Paccar Black. Edward, that decal really finished it off nicely. When you first posted the pic I said "Dang, that looks way better than the one I did" and then realized it was the one I did when I read your post.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2014, 08:16:02 PM by Powderman »