Topic: Do AllBalls have tight clearance?

[754]

In theory its bad practice, but sometimes necessary.. When you tighten the axle you are torquing the center element of the bearing. 
 If it is cocked or slightly crooked or dragging, a sharp rap may straighten it out.
 While it should not be a problem with the floating side, if you got something between the seat and the bearing on the locking side, it would try to cock as you drove it home on the seat.

[stereosilence]

I took the wheels by a machine shop today and they used a driver to try to seat the bearing (if that was the issue). There was no change. Basically, on the front wheel, when you push it through one side, it slightly doesn't line up with the other side. Also, the spacers that should be free floating in there can barely be moved with your finger. He said I need to drive the bearings out and make sure there is no problem inside. I'm not sure if I can do that without ruining my bearings (would be a shame since they are brand new).

Any thoughts anybody? This is so frustrating. I guess I learned my lesson that I should have given the axles to the guy I had install them. I've been doing this build for years and I'm getting so close. Very disheartening.

[keithg78]

Have the bearings removed and throw them away. At this point with all the hammering and repressing they are probably damaged and will be side loaded when you put the wheel back on. 

Then get some brand new QUALITY bearings like SKF or NACHI (or any other quality made in JAPAN brand), instead of those cheap low quality CHINESE made All Balls bearings.  You can purchase high quality bearings for around $10 each, which end up being about the cost of the All Balls kits (you can also buy the same bearings All Balls uses in their kits seperately for about $2 each if you do want to go the cheap route).

Then have the bearings either installed by a different reputable shop or purchase the proper tools (a bearing driver) and do it yourself.  Heat the hub with a heat gun and freeze the bearings before installation and they will go in easy.  Make sure everything is cleaned properly, including the hub and axle.  Also make sure you grease the axle a bit before installing it.  Autozone rents tools and they have a blind hole bearing puller which works great for removing the bearings and also a bearing driver for the install.

You mention "This project is getting frustrating, it seems like nothing ever works."  Having the right tools, quality parts, and patience makes it a lot easier.  I have learned that the hard way many times over the years. 

There are certain parts of a motorcycle you DO NOT go cheap on: Wheel bearings, brakes, suspension, and tires.  Buy the best tools and parts and it will save you money, aggravation, and possibly your life. 

[stereosilence]

So, I removed the bearings with a brass drift. I looked closely and couldn't see any damage on the bearings, spacer, or wheel. If anything, the issue is the bearings were in there too tight and were pinching the collar.

What expectation do I have that if I buy a bearing driver and do it myself, the bearings will go in right? I couldn't tell that anything was done wrong before (aside from everything was fine before I decided to change the bearings).