Topic: Checklist for firing up a rebuild for the first time?

[tennesseebreeze]

Soon I'll be trying to start up my '73 500/4 build bike. I rebuilt the top end of the engine, put in new rings, honed the cylinders, recut the valves and valve seats, and put in new seals and gaskets. I cleaned and oiled all moving parts and was careful to follow the procedures in the shop manual. I set the cam timing and tappet clearances and will be working on the ignition timing soon.

This is my first engine rebuild. As careful as I was, and the time I took to do it, I still want to make sure that I'm not going to destroy something when I go to start it for the first time, for some oversight on my part. What should I look for, as far as common newbie blunders, before I subject it the stresses of actually running it?
 

[Vinhead1957]

Leave the plugs out and make sure it turns over by hand and nothing binds.  Once you determine it's ok take the valve tappet covers off and kick it until the you get some oil in the upper cavity.   Could save an engine!

[flybox1]

I dont know the specifics of the 550's oiling path, but for the 750 I poured 2/3 quart of oil up top, and the rest into the side galley.
Two reasons.  Extra oil up top for protection, and more oil into other parts of the oil path (instead of waiting for the pump to force oil through the whole system)

i too was anxious about the first start, but after a few days of kicking and spinning the starter, with the oil light still staying on, guys here encouraged me to start it.  light went out in seconds of its first start. 

[calj737]

If you used assembly lube during your build, remove the plugs, and use the kick starter to rotate the motor several times. Remove a tappet cover to verify oil to top end. If it's present, replace plugs, and bump the starter. If it spins fast, turn on fuel, and prepare to smile wide!!!

[MCRider]

I like to have a fire extinguisher handy.

[tennesseebreeze]

Good suggestions. Good cautionary video too. I assembled the engine parts lubed up with regular motor oil. I hope that's adequate until the oil pump gets going. I will probably pour some more in the top end before slowly kicking it. If and when I get the thing running, what do you guys suggest? Take a very slow ride for say the first 100 miles? Let it idle for like a week or two?  What's the best approach for wearing in the new rings?

Here's a diagram of the oil distribution system:

[ekpent]

Hold your mouth right and keep fingers crossed     Good Luck on the start up !

  Don't let the engine lug or idle to low for too long and don't overheat it right out of the box.  I should not say this but use regular dino oil till your rings seat well.

[MCRider]

There are schools of thought on break in: hard, soft, medium. Google it, you won't find a definitive answer. Racers break in hard. Old Timers , soft. Old timer racers hard. Some say break it in like you expect to ride it.

For a street bike I  say soft for 50 miles change the oil and go. Main thing is to vary the rpms. No long drones at steady speed. For 500 miles.

[calj737]

I would agree to run it in "conservatively" so you can know that things are assembled correctly. I would check the oil before and after each ride, and listen carefully to the motor while starting and riding. Running it conservatively does not mean "don't rev" it, just rev it up smoothly and keep it under 6500-7000 until after your oil change and levels settle in.

The motor was designed to be revv'ed, so ride it normally is the best advice I have ever followed.

[strynboen]

i take the sparkplugs aut...spray some wd 40 in..and put a battery drill on the crank kase bolt...and loosen ona of the top point in the oil gallery...and run the dril to oil purres aut...then i start think of turn the gas on...but thek the ignision,, before flush gas aut overr the hole engine

[tennesseebreeze]

I bought an extra oil filter because I figured I'd want to change it soon after breaking in the engine. My riding style is somewhat aggressive, and I tend to run the RPM's all over the map. So I'll be putting it through it's paces when I think it's safe. It'll be a miracle if this thing runs I guess. A testament to Honda's engineering, and a validation of a shoestring budget build. It will be interesting to see all the places she bleeds.

[calj737]

Probably the most expected maintenance would be to re-torque the head. You can do it before first run, as it has now been stretched for more than 24 hours. Or, do it after the first ride. Matters not when, only that it gets done.

[tennesseebreeze]

Here's my baby btw (still have some building to do obv.):

[calj737]

Good for front stoppies as it sits 

[tennesseebreeze]

Probably the most expected maintenance would be to re-torque the head. You can do it before first run, as it has now been stretched for more than 24 hours. Or, do it after the first ride. Matters not when, only that it gets done.

Okay, that makes sense. The required torque on these is so low anyway- I thought it was a typo. The torque wrench I have almost doesn't register it.

[flybox1]

Yes, complete a re-torque of the head at some point.  (I did mine on the bench 24 hrs after the first torque sequence.)

Not saying this is the way to go, but here's what I did....
First start for my F3 engine, I ran it for maybe 2 minutes, just to check for noises, and proper oiling.  Varied the RPM's in the dirveway.
Second start, I ran it for 5-7 minutes to vacuum sync my carbs, suited up, went on a 50 mile ride and ran the shatt out of it up to 7500rpm to bed the rings.  Came home, and changed the oil/filter (btw, i put magnets all over my filter for the first 3 oil changes). Also checked valves and cam chain.   Did another 200 miles in and around town (no sustained RPM) before the next oil/filter change, valves, cam chain, and have ridden normally ever since.  Another oil/filter change at 1000mi.  No smoking and normal maintenance intervals now.

[tennesseebreeze]

Yes, complete a re-torque of the head at some point.  (I did mine on the bench 24 hrs after the first torque sequence.)

Not saying this is the way to go, but here's what I did....
First start for my F3 engine, I ran it for maybe 2 minutes, just to check for noises, and proper oiling.  Varied the RPM's in the dirveway.
Second start, I ran it for 5-7 minutes to vacuum sync my carbs, suited up, went on a 50 mile ride and ran the shatt out of it up to 7500rpm to bed the rings.  Came home, and changed the oil/filter (btw, i put magnets all over my filter for the first 3 oil changes). Also checked valves and cam chain.   Did another 200 miles in and around town (no sustained RPM) before the next oil/filter change, valves, cam chain, and have ridden normally ever since.  Another oil/filter change at 1000mi.  No smoking and normal maintenance intervals now.

Tell me more about those magnets. Where do you place them? On the outside of the filter? Are they just loose in there? No help with any aluminum dust that may be in there, but seems like a good precaution.

[calj737]

Probably the most expected maintenance would be to re-torque the head. You can do it before first run, as it has now been stretched for more than 24 hours. Or, do it after the first ride. Matters not when, only that it gets done.

Okay, that makes sense. The required torque on these is so low anyway- I thought it was a typo. The torque wrench I have almost doesn't register it.

The head bolts are 16-18#. The covers are 6-8#, basically hand snug. But the nuts holding down your head do need to be properly and accurately torqued.

[flybox1]

rare earth magnets from the hardware store

[tennesseebreeze]

rare earth magnets from the hardware store

Nice!

[MCRider]

Probably the most expected maintenance would be to re-torque the head. You can do it before first run, as it has now been stretched for more than 24 hours. Or, do it after the first ride. Matters not when, only that it gets done.

Okay, that makes sense. The required torque on these is so low anyway- I thought it was a typo. The torque wrench I have almost doesn't register it.

The head bolts are 16-18#. The covers are 6-8#, basically hand snug. But the nuts holding down your head do need to be properly and accurately torqued.

He may be using a ft lb wrench. They may not start till 10 or 15lbs. May I suggest using an inch lb wrench for more accuracy in the lower ranges.

[calj737]

Yeah, I gathered that. My reply was that "inch pound" torque measures on the side covers is basically irrelevant as a good hand snug is more than sufficient.

[MCRider]

Yeah, I gathered that. My reply was that "inch pound" torque measures on the side covers is basically irrelevant as a good hand snug is more than sufficient.

Right.

[tennesseebreeze]

Probably the most expected maintenance would be to re-torque the head. You can do it before first run, as it has now been stretched for more than 24 hours. Or, do it after the first ride. Matters not when, only that it gets done.

Okay, that makes sense. The required torque on these is so low anyway- I thought it was a typo. The torque wrench I have almost doesn't register it.

The head bolts are 16-18#. The covers are 6-8#, basically hand snug. But the nuts holding down your head do need to be properly and accurately torqued.

He may be using a ft lb wrench. They may not start till 10 or 15lbs. May I suggest using an inch lb wrench for more accuracy in the lower ranges.

I did use ft/lbs. wrench. The manual gives a value of 14.46-16.63 ft/lbs. The wrench started at 12 or 14, if I remember correctly.

[tennesseebreeze]

Kinda bummed I have to take that cover off again. Tappet adjustment was a pain. But I guess it will give me a chance to double check the values. Set my mind at ease and all.