Topic: Drive chain tension CB550F

[Mr.D]

I noticed while cleaning the drive chain today that it seemed a bit loose, so for the first time I want to try adjusting the tension.
Even after reading the manual and all the suggestions here, as well as watching these helpful videos - 

- I’m still confused about how to determine the correct drive chain tension. I know from the manual what the tension should be and I get that the tension will be different depending on whether the bike is on the center stand or not, and whether it has weight on it or not.  But what I don't get is how to adjust it so that it is good for all situations. Am I supposed to find someone that weighs the same as me to sit on the bike while I adjust it? Then what about if I ride with another person on the back? Am I supposed to adjust the drive chain before riding with that person? That all seems a bit ridiculous, so surely there must be a “one tension fits all situations” type of thing?  Any suggestions?

Also, how do I get the axle nut cotter pin hole to be facing up and down (vertical) as the guy in the video suggests? It seems like a reasonable suggestion, and mine is currently sideways (horizontal) so it looks like it will be a little more difficult to get out.

Thanks for any suggestions you can provide!

[PeWe]

You'll get the feeling for it. Good if the chain does not feel tensed and you can move it up-down a little bit more than 1" in total. Roll bike in different positions since sprocket wear will cause different slack and be too tensed in one position.

It's too sloppy if you can here the chain whipping around when gearing or if it can touch the center stand which it will o a CB750. Important that both sides of the adjuster screws are done equal so rear wheel will align correctly with engine and front wheel.

[Mr.D]

Thanks, I guess I'll just play with it a bit then and try to "get the feel for it" as you say. 

[That 70s Bike]

I haven't looked up the info for a CB550F but I assume most chain drive bikes are similiar. From memory my GSXR info is with the bike on the side stand (no center stands here) adjust for 3/4 to 1-1/4 inch chain "slack" (not tension). I picked the middle ( 1"). I believe the slack allows for swingarm travel and for the variables you mentioned.
Also there are different ways to insure the axle stays perpendicular to the chain, as some say the index marks on the swingarm are not always "true."
About the cotter pin position: You are supposed to torque the axle nut to spec then find which of several holes allow it to slide through. Sometime the nut will need a slight adjustment to allow that. I assume the preference for vertical is the feeling that if a cotter pin was reused & then broke at the bend it wouldn't fall out and then allow the (torqued) axle nut to then loosen?

[Mr.D]

Thanks, yes I just decided to dive into the adjustment today and basically went for the 1" slack you mentioned should account for the different variables. Though I noticed my chain is tight in some spots and loose in others. The chain visually looks good, as does the sprocket, but I suppose this phenomenon means they both(?) need changing?

You mention that the index marks are not always true... then what are the ways I can use to determine if the axle is 100% straight?

And thanks, I realized after I loosened the axle nut that there were several holes to choose from for the cotter pin! Didn't know that before I started! Is torquing to spec very important? I don't have a torque wrench, so I just made it what I thought was "tight enough" without breaking my back to tighten it.

[Stev-o]

 I noticed my chain is tight in some spots and loose in others.

I would start shopping for a new chain. 

[Bankerdanny]

Yep, any tight spots is a sign to replace the chain, and also the sprockets since they should all be replaced at the same time.

I just picked up a chain from Motorcycle Superstore at the same time as a set of tires. The chain was $25. They want a similar amount for the rear and $21 for a front.

[TwoTired]

Yep, any tight spots is a sign to replace the chain, and also the sprockets since they should all be replaced at the same time.

True, that's ideal, if you have money to burn.  But, not economical or even really necessary most of the time, imo.
Lots of mitigating factors.
Was the chain lubed properly to minimize sprocket wear?
Was it a very cheap chain?
How old/worn are the sprockets?
I don't favor replacing sprockets if they aren't worn out.  Certainly replace if the teeth start hooking.

My experience on the 550 is that the front sprocket will last over two or three new standard 530 chains and the rear sprocket is double that.
(Can't use an oring chain on the 550 without mods.)

Drive in sand and you can ruin all three components in a day.

Certainly all new components will have the longest replacement interval.  But, the second chain on the sprockets will have at least 2/3 of all new service life.

Just chose the trade-off that you favor.

Cheers,

[PeWe]

+3 on lubrication.  This is the way my chains has got shorter life.
The chain need to be lubricated very often. Sticky chain lube can make chain to look lubricated when it is bone dry where it need oil on the contact points on the sprockets.
I met a guy that had a small spray bottle he refilled with cheap thin lithium grease he sprayed each time he filled the tank with fuel. Very easy if bike has a center stand. Driving in rain need lubrication more often.

I have a really durable chain so I hope I'll lube enough for the sprockets.
I got ideas about a better automatic chain lubing system when I had the CB750 auto oiling on by mistake earlier this year. Very convenient but dirty. It should be easier to start and stop. Press a button in 5 seconds while driving to apply chain lube.
1/4" copper fuel pipe fixed under one of the bolts or rubber hose bent in under the front sprocket cover that can drip oil on chain. It can be hidden under the charging and starter wires.
Other side to a small container or spray can hidden in front of battery to be switched on a few sec.

[Mr.D]

Thanks all for the help. It drives well, and seems even better since my adjustment, but I don't like the fact that the chain is looser in some spots than in others, so I may replace the chain and see how it is, then see about sprockets if I have to. I definitely don't have money to burn!