Topic: CB750 Oil pump O Rings?

[CB750Fury]

Hi CB750 fans,

Wondering where I could get the O rings for my oil pump, mainly the first ones seen when removing the oil pump, they are about 3/4" in diameter...

I doubt I will replace the mini oil seal inside, since difficult to find and install...  Not sure either for the 2 bigger O-rings in triangular form found inside the oil pump...  Heard these are impossible to find...

Many Thanks for all y'alls imput...
Cheers
Carlito

[Nic]

15x2.5mm, find em at any bearing supplier.

[Retro Rocket]

Forum member Elan does oil pump rebuild kits that are top notch and cheap, they have viton O rings, superior to the stock items.......

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126362.200

[Kevin D]

15 x 2.5mm

When you buy a new oil filter, Fram CH6009, you are given one.

https://www.denniskirk.com/30609.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CJPCrbba6MICFQwEaQod-KIAFQ

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Hi CB750 fans,

Wondering where I could get the O rings for my oil pump, mainly the first ones seen when removing the oil pump, they are about 3/4" in diameter...

I doubt I will replace the mini oil seal inside, since difficult to find and install...  Not sure either for the 2 bigger O-rings in triangular form found inside the oil pump...  Heard these are impossible to find...

Many Thanks for all y'alls imput...
Cheers
Carlito

Why Honda of course! There is nothing difficult to find. Take the part numbers to your Honda dealer and have them ORDER them. I would not let them pull generics out of their drawer. They are not expensive.

91305-426-003 46 X 2 Large o-rings for the pump body. Need 2
91304-028-000 15 X 2.5 o-rings first one that you see    Need 4
The gasket is not available from Honda. CB750Supply.com $2.00 Need 1
91208-300-003 That seal is not listed under any of the 750's but it is a 750 part found on the earlier Goldwings and is readily available. Need 1
The oil stopper and springs are only available from Elan who can put the whole kit together for you if you want. 

You will find that a couple of these part numbers have been superceded but these will work and be updated automatically.

Go see your local honda dealer and have them add these to their weekly order for you.

[CB750Fury]

Good Stuff

Thanks Guys !!!!
Carlito

[DH]

Hi CB750 fans,

Wondering where I could get the O rings for my oil pump, mainly the first ones seen when removing the oil pump, they are about 3/4" in diameter...

I doubt I will replace the mini oil seal inside, since difficult to find and install...  Not sure either for the 2 bigger O-rings in triangular form found inside the oil pump...  Heard these are impossible to find...

Many Thanks for all y'alls imput...
Cheers
Carlito

Why Honda of course! There is nothing difficult to find. Take the part numbers to your Honda dealer and have them ORDER them. I would not let them pull generics out of their drawer. They are not expensive.

91305-426-003 46 X 2 Large o-rings for the pump body. Need 2
91304-028-000 15 X 2.5 o-rings first one that you see    Need 4
The gasket is not available from Honda. CB750Supply.com $2.00 Need 1
91208-300-003 That seal is not listed under any of the 750's but it is a 750 part found on the earlier Goldwings and is readily available. Need 1
The oil stopper and springs are only available from Elan who can put the whole kit together for you if you want. 

You will find that a couple of these part numbers have been superceded but these will work and be updated automatically.

Go see your local honda dealer and have them add these to their weekly order for you.

Jerry, I ordered those o rings yesterday from the dealer. Two o rings and a seal were nineteen dollars and some change. Dealers around here are a little too proud of their stuff I think. Wonder why they're so damn high?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Not just your dealer, it Honda's msrp. The seal was around $7 and the o-rings maybe $6? Perhaps that 46 X 2 is an unusual size to make?

I order a bunch online @ 25 - 30% discount but you can not justify $10 shipping with a small order unless you are not close to a dealer. Your dealer should not charge any shipping since it is combined with their order. 

The seal has a metal backing on it. It will be much easier to install a new one than take out the old one. Be careful with the aluminum around it. The shaft goes through the aluminum and you could distort the hole. Search for some threads about it. A few methods have been detailed on removal.

[Retro Rocket]

Forum member Elan does oil pump rebuild kits that are top notch and cheap, they have viton O rings, superior to the stock items.......

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=126362.200

Jerry, these are far superior mate, Elan is a great guy and forum member, he has had full oil pump rebuild kits made { you can't buy half the parts any more} and they are absolutely spot on and high quality, check him out and get the best... ...

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Don't I know that but aren't Elan's o-rings and seal Honda also? And we do like to support members or others that put forth the efforts that Elan has in order to keep things coming for these old bikes after Honda abandons us. The stopper and spring are not available anywhere except from Elan.

Most everyone has a fairly local Honda dealer which makes this an easy close source.

Elan, thank you for everything! I do need a stopper and spring as I'm collecting all the other engine bits as I type. What's the best way to proceed?

There you go 

[Retro Rocket]

Don't I know that but aren't Elan's o-rings and seal Honda also? And we do like to support members or others that put forth the efforts that Elan has in order to keep things coming for these old bikes after Honda abandons us. The stopper and spring are not available anywhere except from Elan.

Most everyone has a fairly local Honda dealer which makes this an easy close source.

Elan, thank you for everything! I do need a stopper and spring as I'm collecting all the other engine bits as I type. What's the best way to proceed?

There you go 

Elans O rings are Viton, superior to the stock items ...

[DH]

I bought the basic leak stopper kit a while back. Wished now I'd bought the whole thing....Destroyed my pump screen getting it apart.. I spent the better part of an afternoon getting the old seal out. Mucked up around the seal area some. used 400 grit, and hoping its good to go. Jerry, What is the best thing to use to install the new seal without screwing it up?........
P.S. FWIW,, for those who haven't done it, make extra sure you have proper tools before even thinking about taking this operation on. (I should've taken my own advice)....There is little room for error, and good eyesight is a definate plus.

[Elan]

Thanks for the kind words guys. .

Dh, I am just finishing up some stainless screens if you need one (they are discontinued). I can then throw in the orings. Screens are $15, cheaper than Honda sold them for .

That inner seal really is miserable trying to remove. I wrecked a body doing it.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

The seal is/can be a difficult procedure for sure. Getting it out is worse than installing. If you are considering changing it you might want to consider buying a new one and comparing old vs new to see if you really want to replace it. If not one of us would gladly buy it from you. TAKE YOUR TIME! If you bang up the aluminum aound the seal you need to be sure you have a smooth round hole for the shaft before installing the new seal. The shaft needs to turn smoothly like it's in a bearing without binding. You have to make sure the new seal is squared up to install. It might help to place the pump body in your freezer to contract the metal slightly. I believe I used a socket and a small plastic head hammer to slowly tap it into place. Easy does it!

Elan, you're the pump master. Any techniques you have?

Elan, I could use a new stopper, spring and screen too. Shoot me a PM and let me know what you need for me to do. Thanks.

 

[DH]

Thanks for the kind words guys. .

Dh, I am just finishing up some stainless screens if you need one (they are discontinued). I can then throw in the orings. Screens are $15, cheaper than Honda sold them for .

That inner seal really is miserable trying to remove. I wrecked a body doing it.

Elan, thanks for the generous offer. If my source doesn't have one (he's already checking for me) I will contact you soon. I hear ya on removing the seal. I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to salvage my pump body till the very end, after totally destroying
the old seal. Got lucky, as the old seal took most of the punishment from the effort.



Jerry, Thank you sir. I thought of waiting for the new seal before removing the old one, as its the better way, seeing how the thing is constructed. I got over anxious waiting for the new parts to come in, and well.......you know......
Think I'm out of the woods for now. The old seal frame took most of the punishment rather than the pump. I wished I'd had tools more suitable for the job tho. I wonder if installing the pump shaft first, then silpping the seal over the shaft
as sort of a guide would help square things up during installation? Just have to experiment to see what works.

[PeWe]

Anyone here that have completed a Super kit restore,  documented it with photos and tools needed to make achive a successful result?

[DH]

Anyone here that have completed a Super kit restore,  documented it with photos and tools needed to make achive a successful result?

This would be very cool..

[Bailgang]

Anyone here that have completed a Super kit restore,  documented it with photos and tools needed to make achive a successful result?

This would be very cool..

+1
I successfully replaced that inner seal on my kids K3 a few years ago but I think I got lucky more than anything else, there has got to be a better way.

[Elan]

The seal is/can be a difficult procedure for sure. Getting it out is worse than installing. If you are considering changing it you might want to consider buying a new one and comparing old vs new to see if you really want to replace it. If not one of us would gladly buy it from you. TAKE YOUR TIME! If you bang up the aluminum aound the seal you need to be sure you have a smooth round hole for the shaft before installing the new seal. The shaft needs to turn smoothly like it's in a bearing without binding. You have to make sure the new seal is squared up to install. It might help to place the pump body in your freezer to contract the metal slightly. I believe I used a socket and a small plastic head hammer to slowly tap it into place. Easy does it!

Elan, you're the pump master. Any techniques you have?

Elan, I could use a new stopper, spring and screen too. Shoot me a PM and let me know what you need for me to do. Thanks.

 

Haha I'm far from master, especially with that seal. On mine I used a teeny bit on a dremel to make a little notch behind the seal. just not deep enough to get near the seat. Thatt made just enough leverage with a pick to bend the metal seal and get some grip on it.  regular shop tools will make it a paperweight out of it a magnifying glass isn't silly either!  I don't like being invasive so the next time I want to try a stud welder or mig without the feed going to tack on a pull point, then letting it cool, and heating the aluminum.  Someone on here brought theres to a machine shop and they got it out with zero markings. Maybe theres some sort of teeny seal extractor out there..

[MRieck]

I have used a small 1/8" ball dremel bit to cut several small indentations behind the seal. You can then push it out with a very small punch etc.

[edwardmorris]

....... Someone on here brought theres to a machine shop and they got it out with zero markings.......

That was me, I just had the pump with me when I went to pick up my widened groove SKFs from the shop and took a shot in the dark. They said they had a small enough mill to get it out, but I don't know how they did it.

[Big Bob]

The link referenced in this thread does not appear to work.

I bought one of Elan's oil pump rebuild kits. Shaft seal came out easy. Tore everything down, everything looks good, put it all back together.

After reassembly I rotated the drive gear for the pump and it was quite tight. Much harder to rotate compared to three different pumps I had on hand. It turns smoothly, no notchy or rough feel to the rotation. But it requires much more force than the non-rebuilt ones.

Is this because it's got a new seal on the shaft? Or did I do something wrong?

Thanks in advance.

[Elan]

The link referenced in this thread does not appear to work.

I bought one of Elan's oil pump rebuild kits. Shaft seal came out easy. Tore everything down, everything looks good, put it all back together.

After reassembly I rotated the drive gear for the pump and it was quite tight. Much harder to rotate compared to three different pumps I had on hand. It turns smoothly, no notchy or rough feel to the rotation. But it requires much more force than the non-rebuilt ones.

Is this because it's got a new seal on the shaft? Or did I do something wrong?

Thanks in advance.

It may be that the rotors are inserted differently than they were initially seated. They develop a sort of orientation.  There's even a machined dot on one side but there seems to be an inconsistency whether the dot should face in or out.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Last one I opened had the dots outward.

[Big Bob]

Dots were visible on disassembly. I took pictures. As it says in the manual assembly was the reverse of disassembly.