Author Topic: K5 spruce up project (Read 4629 times)

mrbreeze · « **on:** January 02, 2015, 10:57:08 PM »

I am getting ready to do a few things to my bike and would like to bounce a few ideas around and ask some questions....get some input. I have owned this bike since 2000. Every few years I take it it out of commission and do a variety of things to it as time and money permit. One such endeavor was new sprockets, chain,
tires,& brakes. Another was rebuild/clean/polish front end (forks, gauges, handlebars, controls). I have also done my swingarm. All Balls steering head bearings and other misc. changes. I have never been into the engine though. The bike had 14K miles when I got it and it now has 27.3 K miles. That shows how much it gets ridden.
what I want to do now will take awhile due to lack of funds but thats not a problem....I can be patient with getting it back together. I want to cut my frame tubes out for my Gordon kit finally. I am low on funds (been unemployed for awhile now). I figure I have some of the parts that I want to install so what I don't have I can get as I go along. I do get a lot of info here on the forum and I do use the search function. I figure if I have a project thread I can get better discussion on precisely what I'm working on.
I want to cut the tubes out for now and I'll get it welded back up later. I got a $100 gift card from Sears for Christmas and was looking for suggestions on buying a saw to cut it. Being that I'm not working I don't have access to shop tools like I used to. I was looking at reciprocating saws but read here that you don't have good control when cutting. I could get a Craftsman corded saw for around $50. I have a Milwaukee 18V cordless drill and priced one of their 18V saws at $155. Too rich for my blood right now. I see some people use the air saws but they are pricey and my little compact compressor won't keep up with it. Also I see people use pipe cutters but they don't have room to swing all the way around the pipe. What
would you buy to tackle this job?

mrbreeze · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2015, 11:22:04 PM »

I want to take the valve cover off. I have another one that is about halfway done being polished. I have jewelers rouge and new buff wheels but haven't got it set up yet. The reason I'm going in is to change the puck seals. The bike runs great but I don't like the steadily increasing oil leakage. Later I can go back in and do top end work. I will be polishing all of the covers

one by one. I have done some with the cases installed but I know it will turn out way better with them off of the bike using the bench grinder. I will also remove the timing chain tensioner to clean up and polish. I will be removing my 4 to 1 exhaust to thoroughly clean the engine and paint (engine in frame). I know its probably better to pull engine but I'm not going to at this time. With the exhaust off...I'm going to rebuild the oil pump with Elan's kit I already have. What is a good paint for doing it this way? I know it would be better to put the cases in an oven to cure but what would work OK to paint it in frame? Since I'm not removing the head at this time would it be possible to find a gasket set minus the head gasket? I figure by the time I go into the head I'll be installing an 836 kit so I really don't need the added expense of the head gasket right now. I'm not opposed to making my own cover gaskets I know they can be pricey individually. When I put the exhaust back I want to mount with studs instead of bolts and new crush seals. Any input positive or negative is welcomed.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #2 on:** January 03, 2015, 06:27:40 AM »

Having just gone through the process of painting an engine with VHT paint, I actually stopped and read the back of the can to make sure we weren't going to mess something up royally. On the back of the can, it tells you that the heat of the engine running will actually cure the paint by itself. The difference is that the paint isn't resistant to oil and other fluids until that curing takes place.

So if your engine ends up leaking oil again after it's put back together, you may end up with some splotchy parts on the paint. If I were in your position, at the very least, I'd apply some heat with a heat gun and would probably focus on the areas where it's most likely to see fluids. Remember though, the back of the can says it only needs 200 degrees for 1 hour to cure, so I'd put the heat gun on its lowest setting and make sure that you don't hold it too close to the paint.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #3 on:** January 03, 2015, 09:10:19 AM »

Direct heat from a heat gun goes not cure the paint as well as a hot box with a foil line box with heat supplied with a heat gun. It evens the heat out around the entire engine.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #4 on:** January 04, 2015, 01:10:00 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on January 03, 2015, 04:45:54 AM

You can use a pipe cutter that accommodates 1" tubes to cut your frame. They're pretty cheap too. Look in the plumbing section of your home center, they resemble a C and have a cutting wheel in one side, and rollers on the other. The tubes are very thin so cutting through is quick and easy.

You could buy one of 754's kits and avoid needing to weld it up.

VHT engine paint seems to pretty popular. You can paint while installed, just be hyper diligent about cleaning, degreasing, and prepping the surface and taping off what you don't want painted. Heat during can be accomplished with a DIY hot box and heat gun. Take some cardboard, foil line the interiors, then fashion a large, somewhat ugly contraption around your motor, it doesn't have to be perfect and blow your heat in. But curing isn't required, just helpful.

I've bought complete engine gasket kits for like $60 so I wouldn't worry about the added expense of the head gasket. You never know when an extra gasket will come in handy...

I have this Ridgid cutter but figured it was for tubing. If these tubes aren't that thick I may give it a go. If nothing else it should leave a nice track for a hacksaw blade to follow. This cutter will spin all the way around the pipes also. Before I was thinking of my larger pipe cutter that was too big to go all the way around the pipe. Gordon gave me this kit long ago.....way before Frank's weldless kit. I've sat on it long enough!! Oil leak is a good enough excuse to go in. I will keep your paint tips in mind also for when I get to that phase.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #5 on:** January 04, 2015, 01:16:13 AM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on January 03, 2015, 06:27:40 AM

Having just gone through the process of painting an engine with VHT paint, I actually stopped and read the back of the can to make sure we weren't going to mess something up royally. On the back of the can, it tells you that the heat of the engine running will actually cure the paint by itself. The difference is that the paint isn't resistant to oil and other fluids until that curing takes place.

So if your engine ends up leaking oil again after it's put back together, you may end up with some splotchy parts on the paint. If I were in your position, at the very least, I'd apply some heat with a heat gun and would probably focus on the areas where it's most likely to see fluids. Remember though, the back of the can says it only needs 200 degrees for 1 hour to cure, so I'd put the heat gun on its lowest setting and make sure that you don't hold it too close to the paint.

OK...more good info..............thanks!

Stev-o · « **Reply #6 on:** January 04, 2015, 07:31:34 AM »

Breeze - I painted my K4 motor in the frame last winter, couldn't justify pullin it just for paint. Used VHT Aluminum and am pleased with the results.
As stated above, prep is key, I spent hours cleaning and sanding and cleaning again. Pull the side covers off, tape off, prime and paint.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #7 on:** December 27, 2015, 07:18:46 PM »

Bumpity bump!!
I just spent about half an hour trying to track this thread down and finally found it by searching the words "painting the engine". I tried looking in the project thread but didn't go back far enough......didn't realize it was so long since I started the thread. I may have to rename it the Procrastination Thread !
Anyways many things sidetracked me through the year and even though nothing much has happened with the project I have made notes here and there and changed my original plans around some.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #8 on:** December 27, 2015, 07:57:40 PM »

I didn't get any painting done in 2015 but I still have all the good info here. I will probably be doing the painting when it warms up. I do have the wiring harness pulled back.......tank & coils off. The exhaust is also off. I will be posting some pictures soon. I still never got a positive ID on my pipe but I'm almost certain it's a Kerker. I bought it around 2005 on ebay for $50. I started to cut my frame for the Gordon kit but after making the first cut on the front right tube I stopped. After talking with member Davez (Dave) I have more detailed pictures of his install. I had a couple of concerns and he helped me iron them out (thanks again Dave!). I'm getting ready to order some things from Yamiya so I will be here in the next few days posting pictures and asking questions. I just put Brandon's leak free top end thread in my favorites the other day so I will be following that. I've been a mechanic for many years and have lots of tools. I'm not a stranger to buying more either although I have limited funds. I want to take my time with any work I do to my bike now and avoid having to do anything over.

pipeguy · « **Reply #9 on:** December 28, 2015, 06:52:52 PM »

Let me know how your painting goes if you do yours before mine, really curious how its going to turn out, i'm off work for a little while hopefully can get my bottom end put together before the lakes freeze up here, then the K0 will have to wait lol.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #10 on:** December 28, 2015, 07:31:05 PM »

You shouldn't have as much problems as I will with painting if your engine is out. I don't really have a need to pull the engine right now. I will probably do that in the future when this engine gets tired or I have a low end problem. For now I'm just sealing up minor oil leaks, polishing covers and painting the cases. I have a few unsightly areas where the paint peeled off and I want it to look better than ghetto.
If finances improve anytime soon...I may just go in for an 836 kit but it's more of a want than a need at this time.

Stev-o · « **Reply #11 on:** December 29, 2015, 09:27:06 PM »

Quote from: mrbreeze on December 27, 2015, 07:57:40 PM

I didn't get any painting done in 2015...

What, are you waiting for Xmas?! Oh, that has already passed!

mrbreeze · « **Reply #12 on:** January 01, 2016, 06:59:59 PM »

Just made a shopping list for Yamiya..........Quanity 6.......cam Pucks...........$17.40
Quanity 4.......exhaust Gaskets...$11.28
Valve Cover Gasket..................$17.67
Clutch cover gasket...................$8.79
Tensioner Gasket......................$2.19
Quanity 2...Side Cover Grommets..$5.97
Silver Dash Plate.......................$8.29
Shipping...................................$13.07
Total.............................................................$84.66

Everything here is Genuine Honda except the dash plate is made by Yamiya. I found the dealership prices cost way more even though there isn't shipping charges.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #13 on:** January 01, 2016, 07:57:56 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on December 29, 2015, 09:27:06 PM

Quote from: mrbreeze on December 27, 2015, 07:57:40 PM
I didn't get any painting done in 2015...

What, are you waiting for Xmas?! Oh, that has already passed!

I know Steve!!! I didn't even realize a year had gone by since I started this post!
Mr. Breeze needs to get this thang back in the breeze!!

mrbreeze · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2016, 08:03:25 PM »

This is the one I want to go with polished handle bar clamp/ light panel.

Davez134 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 01, 2016, 09:38:41 PM »

Quote from: mrbreeze on January 01, 2016, 08:03:25 PM

This is the one I want to go with polished handle bar clamp/ light panel.

Those repro dash panels are good quality. I ordered both colors and ended up using the black one.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #16 on:** January 02, 2016, 12:16:30 AM »

Polished clamp/dash

Stev-o · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2016, 07:37:20 AM »

Hey Fred....I like the look of your bike! When last ridden?

mrbreeze · « **Reply #18 on:** October 27, 2017, 08:48:47 PM »

Hey Steve, Just got back to this thread! Seems like I check in about once a year and not much to report. I have done a few things here and there since last report but just last week I finally got the frame kit pieces welded up. I painted the engine a while back and polished the covers. I guess it's been about 3 years since I had it running but I kept it in the garage and buttoned up real good in all this time. I thought I posted some pics after painting the engine but I guess they were put in a different thread.
I'm getting ready to put my exhaust back on and I'm changing over to studs instead of bolts. I have 40mm studs on hand but from my searching it looks like I will need 50 or 55"s. I think I will measure them up tomorrow and get some from the wrecking yard. Plenty of Jap cars there and way cheaper than the $30 I saw them for online. Then on to the oil cooler and filter. Once that's installed I will spin it over to get oil pressure and install the valve cover and frame tubes. I also just discover that my battery went south. I topped it with distilled water and put it on the tender and it charged but 2 days later it's down to 11.4 volts. Charged it again and same thing. I think it has a dead cell. New battery is on the list along with new speedo faces and probably a few other small items but I should be up & running soon.

Stev-o · « **Reply #19 on:** October 28, 2017, 06:57:07 AM »

New paint and polished head cover looks great!

Let's set a goal of when it will be running/ridable...hows Feb 1?

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Author Topic: K5 spruce up project (Read 4629 times)