Author Topic: Exhaust corrosion prevention (Read 2314 times)

Davez134 · « **on:** January 18, 2015, 10:39:32 AM »

So, I'm probablly going to fork out the money for a new set of 4-4 pipes for my 750 build. I want to coat the insides to keep corrosion at bay. I have been reading a lot about ceramic coating (via search function). I was wondering, have any of you done this with stock pipes? Any other solutions? I ride a lot, and some of my rides are short, so condensation is inevitable. If any of you have done this, what was the approximate cost?

calj737 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 18, 2015, 12:14:51 PM »

Yes, to every set of pipe I put on a bike, especially at the header if the baffles can't be removed. Beside corrosion prevention (I know, the corrosion tends to occur at the collector) it aides in scavenging the exhaust gases.

Guy who does it for me charges $125 for 4 way header and $225 for entire system. I've done about 5 sets of the MotoGP 4:1 inside, and 2 of those inside/out. A nice benefit is the pipe is decently cooled minutes after riding, yet still hot enough to evaporate moisture from its surface while riding.

ekpent · « **Reply #2 on:** January 18, 2015, 12:43:00 PM »

The only problem I could maybe see is the fact that the factory pipes. especially the HM341's have multiple internal chambers, not just a straight through pipe. The 300's also have internal chambers but not as many. That is why the 341's have just basically an end cap and not a real baffle as the chambers quiet them down.
Does that represent any challenges ?, no coating expert or experience here.

PeWe · « **Reply #3 on:** January 18, 2015, 12:51:59 PM »

Condense draining hole in each pipe at the lowest point? Will that work? I have not checked the 4-4, but I think I have seen this somewhere for many years ago.
I have also a new set of No numbers 4-4 waiting. My bike rests in a heated garage, never below 20C.

ekpent · « **Reply #4 on:** January 18, 2015, 12:56:54 PM »

Quote from: PeWe on January 18, 2015, 12:51:59 PM

Condense draining hole in each pipe at the lowest point? Will that work? I have not checked the 4-4, but I think I have seen this somewhere for many years ago.
I have also a new set of No numbers 4-4 waiting. My bike rests in a heated garage, never below 20C.

Stock pipes have drain holes, good idea to check them to make sure they are clear.

PeWe · « **Reply #5 on:** January 18, 2015, 01:46:01 PM »

OK, it must have been my stock HM341 then, 35 years ago

Nic · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2015, 02:09:59 PM »

As with any exhaust system, if you start her up, drive/ride off straight away, go half a mile and turn off the engine, water will be in the exhaust.

Davez134 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 18, 2015, 03:49:37 PM »

Thanks for the reply guys. I will look at them when they arrive and see if there are drain holes. Getting the no number replicas.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2015, 04:03:04 PM »

I have heard of others using high temp exhaust paint on the inside of a new exhaust system. Since there are no rock hitting the inside of the exhaust it should stay put. If you want extra insurance take it to a powdercoater and have them bake it.

If you are paying for ceramic ask about what cure you are getting for your money. Real ceramic will partial cure at 550F and full at 700F. I would want it good and hot since the muffler does not really get all that hot from exhaust alone. Headers obviously get to temp.

hotelstationery · « **Reply #9 on:** January 18, 2015, 04:13:55 PM »

Sometimes I wind up doing short rides, especially if I'm working near my house. What distance would you guys think would be a good minimum distance to get the pipes hot enough to burn up any condensation in the pipes?

jeremy

Davez134 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 18, 2015, 04:30:29 PM »

I saw that Eastwood makes a coating for inside of exhaust pipes. I am cautious though of a $20 product that claims to do a $200 job.

CoachDoc · « **Reply #11 on:** January 18, 2015, 05:24:51 PM »

Consider also a couple of ounces of marine TC-3 2 cycle oil with each gas fill up. This seems to lay a nice slightly oily protective layer on the inside of the exhaust system while also giving you a little more top end lubrication and some protection from the EtOH in your gas.

PeWe · « **Reply #12 on:** January 19, 2015, 02:57:20 AM »

Same question here:
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=7679.0

Interesting to know where the the 4-4 will corrode most? If spray from a rattle can can reach that area.
From the link. This might be something!
http://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-hi-temp-internal-exhaust-coating-with-extension-tube.html

ekpent · « **Reply #13 on:** January 19, 2015, 05:25:04 AM »

They like to corrode through at the headpipe/muffler joint and also towards the rear of the actual muffler section both on the lower and upper section.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #14 on:** January 19, 2015, 07:25:16 AM »

Almost every year (oops) I remove my 'like new' original HM341 pipes and soak the insides with WD40. That also inspires me to keep those hard to get to areas clean, both on the bike and on the pipes.

lrutt · « **Reply #15 on:** January 19, 2015, 11:15:05 AM »

I know on mine, I poured a very liberal amount of high temp bbq paint inside the pipes, blocked off the ends, and rotated them round and round to fully coat everything. Then let them drain out. Not only will this help prevent rust, but also any potential bluing or discoloration. That was 15 years ago, still going strong.

Dunk · « **Reply #16 on:** January 19, 2015, 02:40:09 PM »

I had a pair of headers ceramic coated years ago when they were brand new and after a year of regular used and 3 years of mostly sitting inside a garage they have holes rusted in them. Doubt I'd do it again as they seemed to rust out way faster than leaving them bare or using VHT or other high temp paint.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 19, 2015, 03:54:01 PM »

Quote from: cadunkle on January 19, 2015, 02:40:09 PM

I had a pair of headers ceramic coated years ago when they were brand new and after a year of regular used and 3 years of mostly sitting inside a garage they have holes rusted in them. Doubt I'd do it again as they seemed to rust out way faster than leaving them bare or using VHT or other high temp paint.

How did the coater prep the headers? Were they hot tanked?

krusty · « **Reply #18 on:** January 19, 2015, 04:08:18 PM »

I've been using Valvoline Tectyl 506 for a some years now. I spray it into the exhaust pipes after a long ride when they are nice and hot. The Tectyl then works its way down to the lowest point in the system which is where water collects. The exhaust system is now protected for shorter rides. Haven't had any pipes rust out - yet.

Dunk · « **Reply #19 on:** January 20, 2015, 06:25:19 PM »

Quote from: chewbacca5000 on January 19, 2015, 03:54:01 PM

Quote from: cadunkle on January 19, 2015, 02:40:09 PM
I had a pair of headers ceramic coated years ago when they were brand new and after a year of regular used and 3 years of mostly sitting inside a garage they have holes rusted in them. Doubt I'd do it again as they seemed to rust out way faster than leaving them bare or using VHT or other high temp paint.

How did the coater prep the headers? Were they hot tanked?

Not sure, it was Jet Hot in PA. They offer a lifetime warranty/replacement if they coat the headers when brand new never run. Whenever I get back to that project I'll have to see if they actually stand behind their warranty. Pretty pissed as I recall the headers being around $700 and the coating a few hundred.

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Author Topic: Exhaust corrosion prevention (Read 2314 times)

Nic