Topic: Good resource for rebuilding forks

[eigenvector]

Is there  a good resource for rebuilding the fork tubes?

I don't think my bike has ever had them rebuilt - like since 1977, I'm not even positive it has oil in it anymore.

But rather than just have at it, I'm looking for ways to approach it that don't result in doing more than is necessary - like "it doesn't need to be rebuilt, leave it alone!"

'77 CB550k

[goldarrow]

Have at it, Take it apart, give it good cleaning, put it back with new seals, fill up with oil, and ride

[heyitsrama]

i used a manual for my cb500, but for the most part you disassemble, then slap it all back together again.I hear you can use ATF for the oil in there (non foaming agent) and I learned that you don't wanna slap the seal all the way down. you can do it!
but seriously i would use the search bar.

[Stev-o]

Have at it, Take it apart, give it good cleaning, install new springs and new seals, fill up with oil, and ride

Fixed.   Go for it!

[eigenvector]

Yeah I guess I was more interested in the kind of stuff that I would need to secure prior to starting.

Oil seal and it sounds like the spring as well.  Doesn't sound particularly difficult though - which is nice for a change.

I'll take a look at the shop manual and have at it tomorrow after work.  Since I have it up on its center stand waiting for a new starter solenoid, might as well work on the forks.

[eigenvector]

Thanks for the tip. 

I'll have at it one of these days.  Was expecting to give it a go today, but I've been wrangling with the dealer and the bank over my BMW and haven't had the inclination to do anything but destroy various objects around the house.

Loosen the drain, loosen the top cap, dismount, disassemble, replace seals and possibly springs, refill with ATF.

[bjbuchanan]

You have to loosen the hex head in the bottom while it's together. It's much easier that way. You still have spring pressure to help you out

Before you ask how to loosen the 6mm hex I got ya. Impact, even a smaller electric or handheld will do it or disassemble and wedge a wooden broom handle in to wedge the damper rod

[eigenvector]

That wasn't too bad all thing considered.  There's a lot attached to that left fork, undoing the brake caliper is what took all my time.
Incidentally, that drain screw didn't take much effort to remove - came right out no muss no fuss.  I was expecting the spring to be under more compression that it was - I'm gingerly unscrewing the cap expecting a huge <Pop!> and then nothing much.

I don't know how much oil was supposed to be in there, but not much came out and what did was pretty grey and thin.

[eigenvector]

I won't add to the already plethora of articles about removing the fork seals other than to say it was quite possibly the most annoying job I've had to do on this bike.

Thank heaven for the person who first suggested boiling the forks.

I'll pray and hope that the down tubes are still round after all that prying and grunting and cursing.

[Stev-o]

That wasn't too bad all thing considered.

A lot of the service work on these bikes "sounds" harder than it actually is. Going over the job in advance and being prepared, just as you did, is the way to go.

Removing the fork seals is pretty basic if a small C-clamp is used [learned that trick on this forum]. No heat needed.

[NobleHops]

That wasn't too bad all thing considered.

A lot of the service work on these bikes "sounds" harder than it actually is. Going over the job in advance and being prepared, just as you did, is the way to go.

Removing the fork seals is pretty basic if a small C-clamp is used [learned that trick on this forum]. No heat needed.

The only thing that worked on my 400F seals was to spray them liberally with WD40, put them in a vise and then heat them with a MAPP gas torch till they lit on fire. I then heard crackly sounds of the WD getting behind the seals, put the torch down and grabbed the pry bar I was using and "pop!" they came out easy as anything.

Prior to that I tried reefing on them with pry bars, and more. Wouldn't budge.

[scunny]

the boiling water is the bees knees. add some WD40 to the water, I don't know if it helps but it smells good.
EDIT. don't get caught by your better half.

[strynboen]

its easyer to just take the umbrakke bolts in the bottom of the legs..take the caliper to the side..and just pull the auter legs dovn aut,,just pull the front fender

..let  trippel tree and all that stuff be on the bike..vhy pull all stuff..and it are easyer to pull the sealings vith no innerlegs inn..

[NobleHops]

This is true. It never would have occurred to me till I watched an ace 'Wing wrench do this on a GL1500. If the tubes are good, leave them where they are, pull the lowers off just as Strynboen describes.

N.

[strynboen]

have done it on my cbx 1000 also,,think it are the same as gl 1000/1500

[lrutt]

For getting seals out, I always put a tire iron under one side, prying across the top of the fork leg, then with a propane torch, heated the fork leg where I was prying. Keep constant pressure on that tire iron, just enough so as not to mess up the fork leg, and that seal will come right out. Has worked for me more times than I can count.