Author Topic: frame damage oh no  (Read 13918 times)

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Offline lucky

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #50 on: April 21, 2016, 10:31:11 AM »
Good opinion too!

The frame tubes are only 1/16 thickness to start with.  - Lucky

Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #51 on: April 21, 2016, 10:43:50 AM »

Just realized I had never posted the templates for forward control mounting plates I got these from a website on adding forward controlls but I found them for $50 online and will just be ordering them

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #52 on: April 22, 2016, 05:39:37 PM »
Made my new diode pack for the turn signal indicator to prevent back feed to the new LED turnsignals.  They are 3 amp diodes covered in marine grade heat shrink


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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #53 on: July 31, 2016, 02:37:18 PM »
I rebuilt my forks today and ordered my new brake bleeder screw I need a new speedo cable and will be ordering new stainless brake lines.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #54 on: September 02, 2016, 01:40:36 PM »
Made a small amount of success on my forward controlls today.  While I was at the hardware store I spotted a cable end meant for wite rope and figured for $5 it was worth seeing what I could do.  I brought it home and cut off the end of the cable and stuck this on

The other end is still the brake side end for the cm250

Now I just need the mounting plates, cable stays and some welding done.  The controlls will be painted black like the frame.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #55 on: April 11, 2017, 06:55:27 PM »

Got some used sportster shocks off ebay to replace the painfully stiff rear shocks with something a little softer and ajustable.  My buddy was driving behind me leaving work one day and with how stiff the rear is he said my rear tire came off the ground going over every bump.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #56 on: April 12, 2017, 10:28:08 AM »

Cleened up the wireing in the bucket and only have 3 ground conections left but the rubber gaskets around the warning lights have fallen apart and need to be replaced somehow

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #57 on: May 07, 2017, 07:07:28 AM »
Got a set of cm450c handlebars out of the junk yard that I think will be much easier on my sholder.  They kind of sit like my vt1100s handlebars.  Now once I finally get the forward controlls on and figure out whey my electrical all whent dark I will be ready for some long rides.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #58 on: May 15, 2018, 09:48:03 PM »
Short update.  Electrical sorted, forward controls on, needs a tune up and amd to close up the electical box and then it will be back on the road

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #59 on: November 29, 2018, 05:39:32 PM »
Finally decided to address my oil leak issue. This is how she sits as I go to bed tonight, I had a mystery spring pop out as I took apart the transmission but looking at the manual I think I found where it goes. I will be fixing some wiring while I'm in there so that I can have my starter working.

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Offline 754

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #60 on: November 29, 2018, 06:57:30 PM »
 Spring goes on the shifter arm?
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #61 on: November 30, 2018, 04:14:42 AM »
Spring goes on the shifter arm?
That's what I saw in the factory service manual.  I had to tap the cover off with a rubber hammer and that spring popped out.  My best guess is that I move the shift fork to much while getting the cover off.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #62 on: November 30, 2018, 04:56:45 PM »
While I only had to easy out 6 screws on the covers that was enough to justify what comes next.  Yes that is a stainless socket cap set.  I also stripped 2 of the screws that hold the alternator coil in place while trying to get it out so I will be getting some new screws to go there as well.  W
Tomorrow I will head over to a buddy's shop and use his parts bath to cleen the covers that I took off and then finish cleaning the gasket off of the block.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #63 on: December 01, 2018, 08:17:06 PM »
I spent 4 hours cleaning and polishing engine covers today and put the field coil back in but I need new screws to put the alternator coil back.  I ordered new wire and will be ordering some Deutsch connectors to finish my rewire.  When pulling the wire I actually had several crack and brake.

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Offline RAFster122s

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #64 on: December 02, 2018, 01:33:20 AM »
The insulation cracked or the insulation cracked and the wire broke?  If the wire broke did it have black wire rot? It is not clear to me which wires broke?
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #65 on: December 02, 2018, 05:21:17 AM »
So pretty much all of the wires had the insulation crack and the oil pressure light and one of the yellow wires to the alternator broke the wire themselves.  I didn't check for condition of the wire becaus that would have involved cleaning it which if I am already replacing it why bother.

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Offline RAFster122s

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #66 on: December 02, 2018, 12:34:34 PM »
True about the replacement, the heat and oil cause the insulation to become brittle with time. Some cars have disintegrated and become unreliable due to wiring insulation problems. I have experienced it on a few early and mid 80s Volvo 240s, they used environmentally friendly insulation expecting the cars to last and the wiring to last but they missed the mark by a decade or so as cars 10 years to 15 years old (nothing for the 240 in areas not heavily salted) would start to see electrical gremlins.  I rebuilt a lot of an engine harness on a '82 240 in the dead of a winter snow storm after a wire shorted to the intake, I had failed to get the connector block secured back on the firewall and it flaked the insulation off due to being too green when being green wasn't the in thing to be...
Live and learn...was a frustrating and maddening experience but a good one in hindsight...

If you need to clean the wire of enamel coating (for the magnet wire) use an aspirin (don't breath in the stuff) and melt the aspirin on the wire with a soldering iron or torch. The aspirin will remove the coating from the wire and then all you have to do is wipe your wires with a damp cloth and your iron tip clean with damp sponge or cloth, flux your connections, tin them and splice in your new wire (if going the soldering route... ) Either mechanical ratcheting crimper or the soldering of new wire is going to have to have clean wire to make it work.
I have seen black wire rot as well as green wire rot where the insulation became permeable but the harness sheathing did not and the wires sat in water eventually causing them to short out with one another or fail due to the rot. In those cases it was best not to be moving the harness around if working on the car or bad things could result. My '82 torched a lot of the harness and it was a 3 day job putting it back together. I still have the Wavetek Multimeter I bought to do that job, it was $100 in 1992.

David
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #67 on: December 02, 2018, 12:48:44 PM »
True about the replacement, the heat and oil cause the insulation to become brittle with time. Some cars have disintegrated and become unreliable due to wiring insulation problems. I have experienced it on a few early and mid 80s Volvo 240s, they used environmentally friendly insulation expecting the cars to last and the wiring to last but they missed the mark by a decade or so as cars 10 years to 15 years old (nothing for the 240 in areas not heavily salted) would start to see electrical gremlins.  I rebuilt a lot of an engine harness on a '82 240 in the dead of a winter snow storm after a wire shorted to the intake, I had failed to get the connector block secured back on the firewall and it flaked the insulation off due to being too green when being green wasn't the in thing to be...
Live and learn...was a frustrating and maddening experience but a good one in hindsight...

If you need to clean the wire of enamel coating (for the magnet wire) use an aspirin (don't breath in the stuff) and melt the aspirin on the wire with a soldering iron or torch. The aspirin will remove the coating from the wire and then all you have to do is wipe your wires with a damp cloth and your iron tip clean with damp sponge or cloth, flux your connections, tin them and splice in your new wire (if going the soldering route... ) Either mechanical ratcheting crimper or the soldering of new wire is going to have to have clean wire to make it work.
I have seen black wire rot as well as green wire rot where the insulation became permeable but the harness sheathing did not and the wires sat in water eventually causing them to short out with one another or fail due to the rot. In those cases it was best not to be moving the harness around if working on the car or bad things could result. My '82 torched a lot of the harness and it was a 3 day job putting it back together. I still have the Wavetek Multimeter I bought to do that job, it was $100 in 1992.

David
Thanks for the tip.  I was considering swaping out for a higher output unit but I might just replace the wireing.  I ordered my wire from here
https://4rcustomswire.com
And i have some bullet connectors but need to find some heat insulator.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #68 on: December 09, 2018, 06:31:32 PM »
Finaly got my wire, the post office was 3 days late getting it here.  I got the harness made and am rewiring the electric box.  I need to figure out how to change the wire to the starter but it is soldered in to place.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #69 on: December 10, 2018, 05:33:12 PM »
Got the last of the side covers on.  Need to go get a bolt to make in to a stud on the starter since someone cut the wireing.  And I need to remount the neutral switch.  Still waiting on a batch of new marine grade ring terminals to finish my electric box.

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Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #70 on: December 11, 2018, 07:54:35 PM »
Put a stud on the starter and crimped on a end today.  The rest of my ring terminals should be here tomorrow.

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Offline RAFster122s

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #71 on: December 12, 2018, 01:47:31 AM »
Polishing your valve/cam cover must have taken quite a bit of time...looks nice!
Are you using grommets on your electrical box for the wires?

What kind of heat insulator are you looking for? Does it need to be water proof?
There is a closed cell foam similar to what craft people use that a plastics supply house can get sheets of to serve as a heat barrier if you are not dealing with high heats that can melt or ignite the foam. Does it need to be able to withstand the elements or are you looking for insulation for your wire that is a heat shield? Appliance supply houses have asbestos wire and I think they can sell asbestos sleeve for wire ( like a points wire would use on older Hondas and on some points setups I have seen.)
If it does not require weatherproof capabilities there are heat insulating pads for automotive use you could use but they will absorb water. Foam will degrade when exposed to UV so it depends on what you seek.  DrATV.com carries the points wire insulation sleeve by the foot as would McMaster Carr and probably Vintage Connection.

David

David- back in the desert SW!

Offline RAFster122s

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #72 on: December 12, 2018, 01:52:40 AM »
Are your tail lamps/turn signals angled downward?
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline Mantree

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Re: frame damage oh no
« Reply #73 on: December 12, 2018, 06:14:11 PM »
Polishing your valve/cam cover must have taken quite a bit of time...looks nice!
Are you using grommets on your electrical box for the wires?

What kind of heat insulator are you looking for? Does it need to be water proof?
There is a closed cell foam similar to what craft people use that a plastics supply house can get sheets of to serve as a heat barrier if you are not dealing with high heats that can melt or ignite the foam. Does it need to be able to withstand the elements or are you looking for insulation for your wire that is a heat shield? Appliance supply houses have asbestos wire and I think they can sell asbestos sleeve for wire ( like a points wire would use on older Hondas and on some points setups I have seen.)
If it does not require weatherproof capabilities there are heat insulating pads for automotive use you could use but they will absorb water. Foam will degrade when exposed to UV so it depends on what you seek.  DrATV.com carries the points wire insulation sleeve by the foot as would McMaster Carr and probably Vintage Connection.

David
I will be putting some rubber hose over the lip.  I didn't polish the valve cover, I think my uncle had it chromed.  I refused the heat sleeve from the original harness and replaced the wireing.  The connectors I used are compleatly waterproof as are the ring terminals.
Are your tail lamps/turn signals angled downward?
They were but they have been adjusted, they will be replaced with a light under the fender and 2 large red turn signals with the licance plate on the axle bolt.

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