Author Topic: looking for reinforced valve cover RC ENG. (Read 4664 times)

Medyo Bastos · « **on:** February 06, 2015, 04:53:38 pm »

to top off the king cobra motor

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2015, 08:46:49 am »

OK, trade for RC cylinder! Haha, lol. Making payment on mine today! Here's the one on my Cobra engine! K.

Bill

BPellerine · « **Reply #2 on:** February 07, 2015, 05:09:17 pm »

you need an rc sniffing dog to get that stuff meydos!bill p

Elan · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2015, 05:13:06 pm »

Does it have to be rc? Cyclex sells their own don't they?

754 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 07, 2015, 08:44:49 pm »

I have. One too, but by the messy welds, I am thinking it may not be RC.
So I will suggest he is not looking for any method to support the cam towers, as. Much as wanting to have it look like a real RC motor..
I say hold out and get one with the plaques, even if they're unreadable... Hope you find one.

Medyo Bastos · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2015, 04:59:05 pm »

Quote from: 754 on February 07, 2015, 08:44:49 pm

So I will suggest he is not looking for any method to support the cam towers, as. Much as wanting to have it look like a real RC motor..
I say hold out and get one with the plaques, even if they're unreadable... Hope you find one.

yes, you are KORRECK Frank!

Jim F · « **Reply #6 on:** February 09, 2015, 05:05:59 am »

Mike Rieck and I looked into doing some of these
But the time it took to do all of the machining
Of the valve cover , drilling and reaming, then maching the plugs
And threading the holes in the plugs, welding on both sides
Verses the price of what cycle x sells there's for
I would suggest getting it from cycle X

Good luck

PeWe · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2015, 03:59:47 am »

I bought one from Cycle X.
One insert fell off direct when it got a bolt inside before tightening it. Happened this weekend. The threads were completely destroyed from the very begining, Loctite only held in it place. I ordered it 6 months ago, so it's too late and too far away for complaints returning the valve cover. I ordered new tach gear to have a complete unit.

The overall quality was really bad. Old dirty oil residues inside I had to clean and brush, threads for tacho cable locking bolt completely off. I upgraded to M6 with a tap that I could use direct.
Maybe I'm happy that the bad quality was vsible direct instead of risk getting metal flakes and oil all over the engine.
My old cover went on after I had checked for alu flakes on rocker arms/cam holder and my new cam. All alu flakes went outside only

I'll weld all 8 inserts when I do not trust the glued threaded inserts. There is alu repair that I think will work.
Like this: http://www.alumiweld.com/

Find welded cover, pay more for correct quality and avoid problems is my experience.

Jim F · « **Reply #8 on:** February 10, 2015, 06:53:14 am »

I tig welded the out side and laser welded the inside
then did the drilling and tapping after welding as to not let the
heat distort the thread,s
if you have more problems with the inserts coming out
send the cover to me and I can take care of it for you

Jim

PeWe · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2015, 07:12:03 am »

Quote from: Jim F on February 10, 2015, 06:53:14 am

I tig welded the out side and laser welded the inside
then did the drilling and tapping after welding as to not let the
heat distort the thread,s
if you have more problems with the inserts coming out
send the cover to me and I can take care of it for you

Jim

Thanks for the help Jim. I'll check more about the alu repair with a butane tourch. The shipping Sweden-USA-Sweden will cost some, around 2 x $40-50 US.
//Per

mystic_1 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 10, 2015, 07:41:03 am »

PeWe,

I've played with that Alumiweld stuff before and posted a thread on here some years back:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36600.0

The biggest problem you'll have is getting the parts hot enough because the aluminum of the cover constituted a big honking heatsink.

This stuff works well with smaller parts though and seems pretty strong. I can't attest to it's long-term performance however, I've just played with it in the garage.

mystic_1

PeWe · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2015, 11:57:48 am »

Quote from: mystic_1 on February 10, 2015, 07:41:03 am

PeWe,

I've played with that Alumiweld stuff before and posted a thread on here some years back:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36600.0

The biggest problem you'll have is getting the parts hot enough because the aluminum of the cover constituted a big honking heatsink.

This stuff works well with smaller parts though and seems pretty strong. I can't attest to it's long-term performance however, I've just played with it in the garage.

mystic_1

Yes the size of the valve cover will have a huge cooling effect. I have talked about this with a colleague that have used it reparing smaller parts than the huge valve cover.
Maybe possible if heating the valve cover with a heat gun or place it in the oven before.

bear · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2015, 02:29:39 pm »

The heat gun won't do the job. Use the oven.
Don't let it cool too quick either.
We dump our components into a tub of lime to control the cool down.
But if you have access to an oven, pop it back in after welding.

It's a shame about the freight costs, Jim's the "go to guy" for this type of job.

Cheers,
Brian

Jim F · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2015, 04:40:17 am »

Damn
And I thought you guys where
Right down the street
Lol
Jim
And the cost is shipping
Would be the factor

Medyo Bastos · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2015, 04:05:31 pm »

Quote from: Jim F on February 11, 2015, 04:40:17 am

Damn
And I thought you guys where
Right down the street
Lol
Jim
And the cost is shipping
Would be the factor

i kind of am right down the street

PeWe · « **Reply #15 on:** February 12, 2015, 11:45:31 am »

Quote from: bear on February 10, 2015, 02:29:39 pm

The heat gun won't do the job. Use the oven.
Don't let it cool too quick either.
We dump our components into a tub of lime to control the cool down.
But if you have access to an oven, pop it back in after welding.

It's a shame about the freight costs, Jim's the "go to guy" for this type of job.

Cheers,
Brian

Thanks for the good hints.
If I do not find a local alu welder... I'll try the oven when family is not home complaining about destroying the oven and make food taste different.
I'll check with a friend that took my VM29 carb rack to his job letting professionals welding it 25 years ago. I had cut it to make it 10mm shorter using std carb boots. He still work there, hopefully the welders too.
Shipping abroad from Sweden is very costly

Jim F · « **Reply #16 on:** February 12, 2015, 07:25:59 pm »

Quote from: Medyo Bastos on February 11, 2015, 04:05:31 pm

Quote from: Jim F on February 11, 2015, 04:40:17 am
Damn
And I thought you guys where
Right down the street
Lol
Jim
And the cost is shipping
Would be the factor

i kind of am right down the street

Stop in somtime and say hi

scottly · « **Reply #17 on:** February 12, 2015, 08:02:11 pm »

Quote from: PeWe on February 10, 2015, 03:59:47 am

One insert fell off direct when it got a bolt inside before tightening it. Happened this weekend. The threads were completely destroyed from the very begining, Loctite only held in it place.

You mean the inserts were not welded, but glued into the cover??? Pictures please..

MCRider · « **Reply #18 on:** February 13, 2015, 08:01:56 am »

Medyo: I had one made by a machinist in Washington State, about 8 years ago. He claimed to have templates from RC. HE did a nice job, fine welds, no leaks, uses 6mm bolts and nuts. Interested? I'll dig up his name.

He was mostly a CB77 mechanic, made me a new cam chain tensioner for mine.

PeWe · « **Reply #19 on:** February 13, 2015, 11:47:12 am »

Quote from: scottly on February 12, 2015, 08:02:11 pm

Quote from: PeWe on February 10, 2015, 03:59:47 am

One insert fell off direct when it got a bolt inside before tightening it. Happened this weekend. The threads were completely destroyed from the very begining, Loctite only held in it place.
You mean the inserts were not welded, but glued into the cover??? Pictures please..

Inserts are not welded, just thread inserts as I understood when ordering the cover. But I thought the solution should be better.
The one with bad threads have very thin material in cover for threads. Might be OK if it should be closer to 10mm, not a few mm bad threads.
I tightened the screw with an allen screw driver, almost impossible to over tighten. And I did not yet feel any resistance when I saw the insert was popping straight up. Older model of this one: http://media.conrad.com/medias/global/partner/8000_8999/8100/8170/8172/817258_00.jpg

I might be lucky that if fell off direct when tighten down the M6 allen bolt. The original bolts were all black that might corrode so I replaced them with shiny ones of same kind holding the cover.
Not nice if it should happen in the summer when driving and have oil everywhere maybe far from home.

One more thing that worried me.
When I mounted the valve tappet covers it sounded and felt like sand in the threads. I could not remove it with a cloth or brush. It must be residues from the soda blast with not plugged threads. Maybe particles can fall off when removing the tappet covers when adjusting valves?

Valve cover made on a Monday or ordinary std?

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #20 on:** February 13, 2015, 03:38:43 pm »

PeWe.............sorry about your cover troubles..................I have a Cycle-X unit and all is fine. From the description you gave, it sounds like one of Ken's helpers grabbed a work-in-progress, or one from the 'wrong' pile. Let him know along with the pic...........

MRieck · « **Reply #21 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:04:49 pm »

All that galling in the top pic ( and Per's description) makes me believe the unit wasn't cleaned at all prior to installation.

bwaller · « **Reply #22 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:37:24 pm »

That'll never hold back Pinto springs......

MCRider · « **Reply #23 on:** February 13, 2015, 05:50:16 pm »

Medyo: Here's an inside and outside shot of my cover.

I'll get the guy's name for you by Monday.

I cleaned the yellow stuff out before installing. Don't know what it was, but had something to do with the reinforcements.

scottly · « **Reply #24 on:** February 13, 2015, 07:07:06 pm »

PeWe, those threads are just plain ugly.

Also, the ends of the bolts should have the burrs removed so they don't dig into the caps.

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Author Topic: looking for reinforced valve cover RC ENG. (Read 4664 times)