Author Topic: Latest Acquisition (Read 7795 times)

mcinturff · « **on:** February 11, 2015, 08:35:30 PM »

My buddy texted me a link to a craigslist ad today for a barn find '74 CB750, only $850. He wasn't in a position to buy it, so I had him pick it up for me. I haven't had a chance to see it in person yet, but my buddy said it was in pretty decent shape and had good compression. Apparently all the rubber on it is still good, except for the tires obviously.

Unfortunately the guy could only give a bill of sale, though he does have contact info for the original owner. Anyone from TX know how to go about titling it without going the bonded route?

*Edited for updated file location*

goldarrow · « **Reply #1 on:** February 11, 2015, 09:14:26 PM »

Nice find. What's the plan for the bike? Try searching on the forum for Vermont title.

ekpent · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2015, 07:28:19 AM »

Should be a 1975 going by the color, he probably got 74 off the build date on the vin tag.

mcinturff · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2015, 10:46:10 AM »

Thanks for the tip goldarrow. You think that method is still valid?

ekpent: I think the bike has a few parts that aren't original, but you could be right. The speedo is black and the tach is blue (?).

I plan to do a partial restoration. Rebuild the carbs, brake system, tires/tubes and whatever else it needs. I don't plan on tearing it down to the frame just yet, I want to enjoy it a little first.

Anybody have a recommended turn signal supplier? Hoping to put on a good set for less than $100. Need muffler baffles too.

I have a mint king/queen seat that I can put on it temporarily to ride it without looking ridiculous.

ekpent · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2015, 11:02:06 AM »

Hopefully someone here can fix you up on some turn signals.If indeed the bike is a 75 you would need the bigger round back signals.1974 are a different style also. Nice you still have the grab bar in back but you would need to buy the clam style metal and rubber brackets still. Seen them on Z1Parts.com I think. Those baffles on the 341 pipes are basically just a 'diffuse' cap, mostly to keep a mouse out maybe. Hopefully those original pipes are nice and solid, maybe run them a bit to make sure before buying the caps, won't affect performance. Happy first start up.

goldarrow · « **Reply #5 on:** February 13, 2015, 03:15:48 PM »

Quote from: mcinturff on February 12, 2015, 10:46:10 AM

Thanks for the tip goldarrow. You think that method is still valid?

ekpent: I think the bike has a few parts that aren't original, but you could be right. The speedo is black and the tach is blue (?).

I plan to do a partial restoration. Rebuild the carbs, brake system, tires/tubes and whatever else it needs. I don't plan on tearing it down to the frame just yet, I want to enjoy it a little first.

Anybody have a recommended turn signal supplier? Hoping to put on a good set for less than $100. Need muffler baffles too.

I have a mint king/queen seat that I can put on it temporarily to ride it without looking ridiculous.

Vermont title isn't just valid, it's proven. Stock signals can be had for way less than 100/set

DH · « **Reply #6 on:** February 13, 2015, 07:42:30 PM »

Quote from: mcinturff on February 11, 2015, 08:35:30 PM

My buddy texted me a link to a craigslist ad today for a barn find '74 CB750, only $850. He wasn't in a position to buy it, so I had him pick it up for me. I haven't had a chance to see it in person yet, but my buddy said it was in pretty decent shape and had good compression. Apparently all the rubber on it is still good, except for the tires obviously.

Unfortunately the guy could only give a bill of sale, though he does have contact info for the original owner. Anyone from TX know how to go about titling it without going the bonded route?

I'd make sure the state of TX. will allow a resident to register a vehicle out of state first. If you can contact the guy who owned it
last, legally, I'd try that first FWIW...(State laws vary, and I am not from Tx.)

greenjeans · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2015, 08:38:44 PM »

In Texas, you just go to the regional DMV office. You'll need a bill of sale and a VTR-130. You can get that here:
http://www.txdmv.gov/forms
Then you just call around to insurance offices and find a surety bond. That will run you about $100
Then, you go back to the title office and give them the paper work. That's about it.

Stev-o · « **Reply #8 on:** February 13, 2015, 08:43:31 PM »

Quote from: goldarrow on February 13, 2015, 03:15:48 PM

Quote from: mcinturff on February 12, 2015, 10:46:10 AM
Thanks for the tip goldarrow. You think that method is still valid?

ekpent: I think the bike has a few parts that aren't original, but you could be right. The speedo is black and the tach is blue (?).

I plan to do a partial restoration. Rebuild the carbs, brake system, tires/tubes and whatever else it needs. I don't plan on tearing it down to the frame just yet, I want to enjoy it a little first.

Anybody have a recommended turn signal supplier? Hoping to put on a good set for less than $100. Need muffler baffles too.

I have a mint king/queen seat that I can put on it temporarily to ride it without looking ridiculous.

Vermont title isn't just valid, it's proven. Stock signals can be had for way less than 100/set

Just to be clear, Vermont does not issue titles for bikes over 15 years old. Registration only.

mcinturff · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2015, 01:41:33 PM »

Just an update with the project so far:

I have ordered a carb rebuild kit, master cylinder rebuild kit, caliper seal, air and oil filters, condensers, and a set of Bridgestone Battlax BT-45's. 100-90-19 up front and 110-90-18 out back.

I plan to install all of these parts this weekend. Hopefully I'll be able to post a video of this thing running for the first time in 25 years.

Once I deal with the title I'm going to start getting stuff like the missing mirror, turn signals, rear fender, and possibly begin a dual disc conversion.

Here's the temporary seat I have waiting in the attic

*Edited for updated file location*

ekpent · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2015, 02:48:23 PM »

Try cleaning/ re-using your old carb brass bits first when you clean the carbs especially if they are genuine Kehin parts, you may not need or want those 'rebuild' kits.

DH · « **Reply #11 on:** February 24, 2015, 03:26:12 PM »

That's a good find, it's almost complete. That is very good thing, (but you knew that)

and if the pipes are good, even better. You'll have fun with that one

.

mcinturff · « **Reply #12 on:** March 03, 2015, 03:04:43 PM »

Another update:

I finally picked up the bike and brought it home. Unfortunately it's in worse shape than I had hoped for. Will likely restore over the Spring. It was built in May of 74. Before someone says anything, I have already bought a replacement stator cover. Here's some pics:

ekpent · « **Reply #13 on:** March 03, 2015, 04:08:59 PM »

You may want to leave the road rash stator on for now just to get it running if not cracked, you got a lot to keep busy like carbs etc.. One thing I see in the pics is the speedometer is the wrong year so mileage may be a guess.

mcinturff · « **Reply #14 on:** March 03, 2015, 05:36:45 PM »

Funny you should mention the carbs...

They were a pain in the @$$ to get off. The intake rubbers are harder than granite.

More pics to come when I get more done. It's funny, despite all the grease, dirt, grime, and corrosion, much of the cadmium plating is still intact.

The slides were very difficult to remove. Had to put two of the carbs in really hot water, they slipped right out after that though. The float pins were even worse, had to drive them out with a decapping pin and a small hammer.

Anyone ever take the choke apart? I wonder if it is even necessary. All of the individual linkages inside the carbs look okay, just needs a little oiling.

ekpent · « **Reply #15 on:** March 03, 2015, 06:09:57 PM »

Don't take the choke apart and remember that a heat gun is your friend on old hard rubber, varnish in carbs and all other kinds of stuff on old bikes, Get one if you don't have one

Your carb bodies are ready to go in a gallon can (or two) of real carb cleaner dunk if jets and floats etc. are removed for a good soak and a water rinse and compressed air blow dry, and things like jets and other brass bits can do a pre soak in some lacquer thinner first to help break up the crud before they hit the can.
You will get other dissenting opinions so choose whats best for you.

mcinturff · « **Reply #16 on:** March 09, 2015, 12:12:02 PM »

Update:

Got it all cleaned up. Carbs are ready to be put back together and bench synced. Found a set of side covers in the attic.

Going to try to revive the carb boots this weekend. Have another set in the closet, but they aren't particularly soft either. Got the tank sitting full of white vinegar, has already loosened all the rust from the inside. Needs to rebuild petcock though.

Ordered a TON of part from 4 into 1. Also bought a 4 into 1 yoshi replica from Chris at motogpwerks

He said if I keep the stock air box I should up 2 sizes in the mains. Sound about right?

Parts on the way:
Clutch, stator, transmission, cam tensioner, and oil pan gaskets
New Honda mirrors left and right
Solid state regulator/rectifier
Pro Motion Cable Set
Brake Master Cylinder Diaphragm
Gas tank rubber holder
Exhaust gaskets
Fuel line
Rim Strips and Tubes
Brand new caliper body, piston, and bleeder valve (going to fix the original for a dual disc down the road)

and other various tidbits...

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #17 on:** March 09, 2015, 12:55:34 PM »

You won't need the exhaust gaskets if you got a 4-1 for spigots.

Please tell us you are going to check the frame for rust at both sides of the rear motor mounts............and that very DANGEROUS front tire will be gone

I soaked a set of rock-hard intake manifolds in DAWN dish-soap for a month..........came out nice and soft........but firm like new.

flatlander · « **Reply #18 on:** March 09, 2015, 01:09:03 PM »

quite some progress there.
but please tell me that awesome seat goes back on? if you think it's too subtle you could cover it with synthetic pink leopard skin or something??

mcinturff · « **Reply #19 on:** March 09, 2015, 01:27:39 PM »

I don't know, I kinda like dry rotted tires

I've inspected the frame, it all checks out. I will be tearing down for blasting and powdercoating in a couple months though.

Exhaust unfortunately is not spigot type, will need to buy studs, nuts, and washers. The plus side is it's all stainless steel

mcinturff · « **Reply #20 on:** March 09, 2015, 01:29:41 PM »

By the way, it turns out that seat in an old Corbin. I wonder if it's worth more than 50 cents...

It is most certainly not going back on this bike.

Stev-o · « **Reply #21 on:** March 09, 2015, 02:17:13 PM »

New header looks good. Any of the old pipes not have holes?

ekpent · « **Reply #22 on:** March 09, 2015, 05:40:05 PM »

Check your sprockets and chain also, the countershaft sprocket in your pic may have some wear, kind of hard to see. A hook or sharp teeth forming are bad signs.

mcinturff · « **Reply #23 on:** March 09, 2015, 06:47:04 PM »

Unfortunately there are a plethora of holes in the original exhaust. Only decent part is the individual header pipes.

Sprockets will be okay for now, will replace them during the eventual restoration.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 09, 2015, 06:54:36 PM »

mcinturff,

Looks like you've got a good start on bringing this one back.

Just sent you a pm.

Charlie

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Author Topic: Latest Acquisition (Read 7795 times)

DH

DH