Topic: heavy duty cylinder stud question

[75 super sport]

I have all the old cylinder studs removed, and getting ready to install the heavy duty studs. I noticed that one side of threads is longer than the other side. It seems that the short side threads into the case better than the long side. Does anyone know which is the correct way to install them, long side into the case, or short side?

[PeWe]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=112239.msg1260852#msg1260852

Do not over torque when the HD stud can snap much easier than OEM. My experience due to a bad wrench i had borrowed at my job. Exensive brand but not correct. Ordered new Hazet that did not cost that much. New set of studs, head gasket etc cost more.
I could apply a torque of 36Nm with new wrench to move my earlier torqued nuts. I thought used torque was 28Nm (20,65ft lbs). Max 29-30 to move it further.
I replaced all studs when one APE stud snapped, the other can snap after when drivning, not fun!

HD studs are much more rigid than OEM studs that are very flexible.
The good thing with the stiff ones is that they do not flex and keep torque better.

Be aware of using thread locker. Kibblewhite say only when threads are worn. Important to not use too much when the glue can fall into the oil support of the head and block oil supply.... BAD and expensive. Cam holders cam and metal flakes all over the place. see other threads in this matter.

KPMI recommends using Loctite™ (blue) on case studs only when threads in the case are worn or loose. If threads are too loose or worn, proper case repair must be made

I did not find the torque for APE, I think Kibblewhite has same spec.
18 lb·ft minimum to 22 lb·ft maximum.   I torqued 21+ last time (28.5Nm) Kibblewhite studs

Next is the M6 bolts, cam holders (CB750) 12Nm is too much. I ruined one helicoil, maybe bad wrench too, up to 12-15Nm. I used 9-10Nm last time.

Nm vs lb ft  look here http://www.convertunits.com/from/ft+lb/to/N+m/

[Phinn]

The long end points downward, into the case. 

Lubricate but do not put too much fluid in the stud hole, since that will create hydraulic pressure when you crank it down that will throw off your torque reading.

[flybox1]

+1  long thread into case.
clean your case holes really well.  bore brush and acetone.
I sparingly used red locktite, and torqued to 8ftlbs.

[bwaller]

Torque studs into the case to 8ft/lbs. Then head nuts torque to 22lbs.

[MCRider]

As per others: long end in cases, 8ft lbs into case, 22+/- at head end.

Run into case, torque, and back out, repeat. To get threads to seat. Holes should be very clean, studs too. I didn't use any sealer/ lube on case end. Use high pressure grease on head end, per KEn at CycleX.

[75 super sport]

Awesome, thanks guys. That's why I love this forum

[Davidov]

Yes to all those replies.
The only comment I would add, is to mock up the cylinder and head while the loctite cures

That's how Branden demonstrated it, and it worked for me too.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=107040.0

[tlbranth]

I don't see any reason to torque the studs - only the nut that goes on them.