Author Topic: 1972 CB500 - Rebuild Project (Read 31999 times)

Puffin · « **Reply #50 on:** April 20, 2015, 09:50:03 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on April 09, 2015, 05:04:17 AM

Use Acetone or Xylene to remove the excess Hylomar. Wet a rag and wipe, don't squish the fluid into the case seams as it will undo your seal.

Bear in mind, the excess showing on the outside of your cases, is also on the inside of your cases... If there's cause for concern of too much, best to part the Red Sea and clean it up lest the excess travel into your oil galleys-

Yeh this is what is worrying me.... I think I need to get the torch out and have a really good look inside. I really don't want to open them back up now but I guess for piece of mind it's worth it.

Puffin · « **Reply #51 on:** April 20, 2015, 09:55:32 PM »

Quote from: Bootsey on April 08, 2015, 11:55:01 PM

Looking good! What's the plan for the paint scheme, keeping the current tank or something new?

Hi Bootsey,

I have changed my mind several times already on the paint scheme and I'm sure I'll change it 100 times again before I get that far. definitely going to keep the original tank however it will be fully stripped, prepped and repainted.

Originally it was going to be White, then black and white, then Repsol Orange, then I thought about a deep Burgandy-ish Red, now I'm leaning towards a classic Black or Dark Grey. Tomorrow it will probably be British Racing Green like my old CB250...

Puffin · « **Reply #52 on:** April 20, 2015, 10:01:27 PM »

So progress has been a bit slow. My new Cylinder Studs have been 5 weeks in the post which means my engine rebuild has stalled.. Unfortunately it looks like they have got lost however I can't make a claim until it's been at least 6 weeks.

In the meantime I've just been tackling random jobs.

I built myself a little vice-mounted polishing rig out of a free Bench Grinder and practiced on my engine covers.

Puffin · « **Reply #53 on:** April 20, 2015, 10:08:38 PM »

I also built myself a wheel alignment jig that mounts to the end of the bike table and checked the 'trueness' (is that a word???) of the wheels.

They look pretty good. I noticed there are a few new spokes so somebody must have had a go at restoring these already.

Puffin · « **Reply #54 on:** April 20, 2015, 10:23:00 PM »

Got the new piston Rings on and installed the pistons. These were from the 'Cruzinimage' eBay seller and were delivered within a couple of days all the way from Japan. The instructions are a bit redundant though as both the first and second rings have just an 'R' stamped on the upper side... not the 1R and 2R as shown on the packet.

From what I worked out the 'Chrome" ring goes at the top and the "Matt" ring is the second ring down. You can also tell by the slightly different cut to the outer edge. The top ring is beveled whereas the second ring has more of a tapered outer edge. Somebody please feel free to correct me if I have this wrong.

I also got the Gear Shift mechanism and Clutch installed.

Puffin · « **Reply #55 on:** April 20, 2015, 10:31:48 PM »

Ordered a new set of Dunlop K70's.

I wanted something Retro, suitable for touring and in the correct imperial sizes so these ticked all the boxes. There are a lot of New Zealand roads that are still unsealed as well so something with a bit of tread is going to come in handy for my big tour around the country early next year.

I think they will suit the look I'm going for.

Bootsey · « **Reply #56 on:** April 20, 2015, 10:38:06 PM »

Looking good.
It sounds like you've got the rings sorted, here's some confirmation from the manual for you.

Puffin · « **Reply #57 on:** April 22, 2015, 04:31:07 PM »

New tyres arrived and look awesome...

Dunlop K70's, 4.00x18 rear and 3.25x19 front

Managed to puncture the inner tube on the front with the tyre irons which is really annoying. Must have got pinched at some point.

What's the deal with patching these inner tubes? Seeing as they run at less that 30psi I can't imagine that it's much of a problem, especially considering a bike tyre runs at double that. I guess the speed and weight of Motorbike is a lot different however.

Anybody have any opinions?

What about balancing? I've spun the rear tyre a few times and the valve always ends up at the bottom which implies I need to apply a small spoke weight opposite. Am I thinking about this too much or is it good practice to try and balance the wheels out?

Puffin · « **Reply #58 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:19:13 PM »

Looks like my Cylinder studs have been officially lost in the post... I did get a refund but unfortunately the place I ordered them from are now out of stock and I am really struggling to find somewhere else to get them from who will also post internationally.

I guess I just have to wait till they are back on the shelf. This is really slowing me down however there is always something else to be getting on with.

I have the wheels on and assembled the rear brakes so at least i now have a rolling frame.

Puffin · « **Reply #59 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:40:47 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 07, 2015, 07:20:28 PM

APE just made new sets, carried at dynoman.net

Thant's good to know.. thanks Cal. Hopefully the usual suppliers will be getting re-stocked soon

I have tried Dynoman but they want $60USD for shipping..... it's only really viable for me if I can chuck a load of other stuff in and combine shipping.

Puffin · « **Reply #60 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:54:04 PM »

I cut down the front fender as well. Pretty pleased with how it turned out.

Puffin · « **Reply #61 on:** May 07, 2015, 08:02:02 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 07, 2015, 07:58:07 PM

Ship them to me stateside. I'll post them to you via US Postal Service. Whole affair should be less than US $20.

You Sir.... are a Gentleman.

I will PM you and get your details.

Puffin · « **Reply #62 on:** May 25, 2015, 04:13:44 PM »

Finally got my new cylinder studs through...!

The Honda Service Bulletin 500#3 from 1971 states that replacement studs should have Locktite applied and then the studs should be torqued to 14.5-16.6 ft.lbs

Instructions from APE however are different and as follows:

CS500H CYLINDER STUD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. Long threaded end must be installed in the case.

2. Note stock stud length location before removing. There are two different stud lengths.

3. After removal of stock studs (removal tool #SP-100 available from APE) thoroughly clean holes with solvent and blow out.

4. Use APE stud installation tool #08-151 or two 8x1.25mm nuts on the noted location, bottoming out, then using a torque wrench torque to 8 ft. lbs. maximum.

4. Install head, and following manufacturer's torque pattern, torque nuts to 20-22 ft. lbs.

Given the Service Bulliten is 45years old I went with the APE method.....

Puffin · « **Reply #63 on:** May 25, 2015, 04:39:55 PM »

Stripped the horrible flame-effect tank back to the bare metal.

There were about 4 or 5 layer of paint on the thing so it was a little work but I was generally pleased with the condition of the tank underneath. There is a small ding by the right tank badge which had some filler in which will need addressing if I decide to paint. Right now I really like the bare metal... I might just black zinc the underside and then lightly sand out the scratch marks and give it a polish and an oil or a wax.

Puffin · « **Reply #64 on:** May 25, 2015, 04:44:23 PM »

Also finished off my side covers... My technique was definitely getting better as I practiced more. Really pleased with the last piece even though the shape made it pretty awkward.

I'm not going for show-room here. The few pits and blemishes give it some character...

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #65 on:** May 25, 2015, 05:40:31 PM »

The polishing looks good. Even though it's a pain in the butt, when you bring those old parts back to looking like their original new self, there is something very satisfying about the process. Almost makes the paint in the butt part seem not so bad, huh?

Puffin · « **Reply #66 on:** May 26, 2015, 02:48:37 AM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on May 25, 2015, 05:40:31 PM

The polishing looks good. Even though it's a pain in the butt, when you bring those old parts back to looking like their original new self, there is something very satisfying about the process. Almost makes the paint in the butt part seem not so bad, huh?

I agree, I actually find it quite satisfying. I spent about 8hrs the other Sunday just polishing. Man it's messy work though...

Puffin · « **Reply #67 on:** May 26, 2015, 02:58:19 AM »

So in my excitement with finally having all my parts I got home from work and installed the top half of the engine.... Didn't go totally smoothly I have to admit.

First time I put the jugs on backwards which meant installing all the pistons twice...

Also had a huge fight with getting the bottom of the cam chain tensioner into it's little slot in the crank case. Ended up taking the oil pan off and using a screw driver to lever it in from below as I pushed it down. It was only by luck I realised it wasn't sitting right as I was checking some other thread on this site when I saw somebody had the same problem.

No photos sorry... Was too caught up in what I was doing

Puffin · « **Reply #68 on:** May 26, 2015, 03:05:49 AM »

I have some Permatex aviation gasket sealer that I used on the lower cylinder gasket...

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--aviation-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail

In my haste I also used it on the head gasket but I'm now wondering if that was the right thing to do?

Generally people seem to install that gasket 'dry'...?

I used a new Vesrah head gasket.

Should I be worried at all? Is there any issue with using this type of sealer on the head gasket?

I used some new High Tensile flange nuts that I torqued to the APE specifications. Tomorrow I'll back them off slightly and re torque.

Puffin · « **Reply #69 on:** May 30, 2015, 11:44:04 PM »

Big milestone reached today. The engine is all buttoned up, looking good and sitting on my bench waiting to be installed into the frame.

If anybody has any top-tips about getting it back in the frame I'm all ears. I figure it's either going to be a case of lying it on the floor sideways and placing the frame over or recruit some muscle and see if we can man-handle it into the frame.

Some pictures of the final assembly below....

1) Sealing the rubber 'Pucks'
2) Using the old o-rings from the cam end covers to prevent the rocker-shafts from rotating
3) Aligning the timing mark so that the notch in the Cam-shaft faces to the right of the engine

Puffin · « **Reply #70 on:** May 30, 2015, 11:47:41 PM »

... I guess the jury is still out on whether this prevents the rocker shafts from rotating however it can't do any harm and the theory is good so why not?... it's a quick and free solution. In the least it will delay the process.

Puffin · « **Reply #71 on:** May 31, 2015, 03:45:29 PM »

Aligning Cam shaft with timing mark..

Puffin · « **Reply #72 on:** May 31, 2015, 03:59:10 PM »

I used my new (to me) CB650 CAM... the lobes did clear the case although by the #4 cylinder the tolerance was pretty tight...!

I did think about grinding some of the case away however in the end I left it alone as I couldn't physically make the lobe hit the case by manipulating it manually.

Looking back at these pictures I'm not so sure.. that is one small gap???

If anybody thinks this needs more of a gap to be safe please let me know. It's not a massive job to go back and fix it now.

Puffin · « **Reply #73 on:** May 31, 2015, 04:04:50 PM »

Some pictures of the finished engine.....

Man I'm already nervous about starting it up for the first time??

Puffin · « **Reply #74 on:** June 02, 2015, 02:59:33 PM »

So having slept on it and getting some advice from the Forum I went back and opened up the top of the engine to address the clearance issue between the cam and the engine case. I wish I'd done this before putting it together as I would have been able to do a proper job. Instead I had to struggle whilst working with the engine in the bike. I masked off all the galleries and openings and had a vacuum cleaner and an air compressor on standby to constantly clear up all the dust and metal particles as I progressed.

I'm annoyed with myself because so far I have been trying to do things properly and this felt like a bit of a 'hack'. Anyways the job is done.... Maybe not as good as it could have been but the clearance on all the lobes is now much better.

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Author Topic: 1972 CB500 - Rebuild Project (Read 31999 times)