Fly's banjo is about 180 degrees from yours? There are two different "standard" grip lengths; I'm using the shorter style, but nothing on my bike is "stock". 
Scottly, how long are your "shorter style" grips? What kind are they?
three things i notice.
1. there is something protruding from the end of your grip....what is it? My grip fits flush to the end of the bar.
2. whats the fat rubber ring between the grip and the control? maybe about 1/4" thick
3. there is too much space between the control, and the MC clam. snug them up.
looking at this more....if #1&2 are un-removable parts of your grips, you might fix the whole issue with new OURY with less extra stuff on either end.
Unfortunately i cannot take a fresh picture as my bike is disassembled for a bottom end rebuild. I can however measure my grips if needed...
Flybox1,
1. The black piece beyond the end of the grip is connected to the Napoleon bar end mirror. It is tight to the bar end, and the grip, therefore, is also flush to the bar end, since it contacts this part of the mirror. (The end of my throttle tube is about 1/16" shy of the end of the bar to that it doesn't bind against that part of the mirror.)
2. You're looking at one of two things. The "flange" on the grip is rather thick rubber, but it's factored into the ~5" length of the grip I measured. Between that and the control housing is another foam/neoprene(?) disk, which I presume is designed to prevent friction between the grip and the housing. Not sure if it's necessary, but another thing I'm dealing with is "stiction" in the throttle--not easy to turn and doesn't spring back readily. Thought it might help. I'm not sure OURY grips would help since the 5" dimensions are the same, no?
3. Maybe I'll try filing away at the control housing to allow the wires to exit more downward as you suggested in your last post.
2. whats the fat rubber ring between the grip and the control? maybe about 1/4" thick
That is part of the grip, I have Progrips too. Could be shortened if that would make a difference.
I also thought the MC was rotated too far forward.
Ya....I think the progrips are the issue here 
they take up too much space and dont allow tight stacking.
The MC needs to be rotated to fit and easy finger reach. That position might be most comfortable for him.
These bars do put you pretty far forward. His brake line sure needs to be rotated downward 
Steve-o, by shorten I presume you mean carve it off, leaving the smaller, thinner flange behind? Even so, I'd still have to trim the throttle tube, too, to make any difference in the control spacing, right? Or am I missing something?
Flybox1, I'm noticing in that last picture that your master cylinder, brake lever is different from mine, at least at the part of the casting into which the banjo bolt screws. Mine is longer, probably by 3/8" to 1/2". That certainly explains, at least in part, the better clearance you have from your gauges. I wonder if other parts of the MC/brake clamp assembly are different as well, such that the clamp is slightly more removed from the end where the bar curves. Is that the original MC for that '78 750K? I might try to look them up to compare. Not that it would help my situation, but at least I'd feel fulfilled knowing "why."
