Topic: New bars, tank contact

[flybox1]

Did you use light lube under the throttle sleeve?  There should be NO resistance or binding of the throttle sleeve.  Mine has play in all directions.  Up to but no more than 1mm in any direction...even rotational play, before the cables 'engage'.
Find out where your throttle is binding.  omitting it might help your spacing.
That foam/neoprene ring seems hokey    Is it causing your poor throttle return?

[mgzych]

I don't know yet whether it's the throttle sleeve that's binding, or something else, like a cable routing issue, cable cleaning/lube issue, weak throttle body return spring, or something else.  Guess I'll have to do a step by step elimination/diagnosis.  Any other areas to check or useful tips/tricks?  How would I know if it's necessary to replace the throttle cable or any other part?

It's not quite apparent in my photo, but the black sheathe of one of the throttle cables is cracking away from the curved metal tube exiting the control housing. How bad is that?

Flybox1, it looks like you have that connection "heat shrunk."  Did you do that or is that part of the cable?  Original or after-market cables?

[flybox1]

best way to eliminate the cables causing the binding...detach them from the carbs and allow then to hang down from your bar/control.
Actuate the throttle...if it has the same ishtty resistance, the resistance is coming from your control somewhere.
if the action improves, then you need to revisit your cable routing, or get new ones if that cracking is causing the issue.
These are the cables that came with the bike.  I haven't looked at them closely enough to tell if they are OEM or aftermarket.

[Stev-o]

Fly's banjo is about 180 degrees from yours? There are two different "standard" grip lengths; I'm using the shorter style, but nothing on my bike is "stock".

Scottly, how long are your "shorter style" grips?  What kind are they?

three things i notice.
1. there is something protruding from the end of your grip....what is it?  My grip fits flush to the end of the bar.
2. whats the fat rubber ring between the grip and the control?  maybe about 1/4" thick
3. there is too much space between the control, and the MC clam.  snug them up.


looking at this more....if #1&2 are un-removable parts of your grips, you might fix the whole issue with new OURY with less extra stuff on either end.

Unfortunately i cannot take a fresh picture as my bike is disassembled for a bottom end rebuild.  I can however measure my grips if needed...

Flybox1,

1.  The black piece beyond the end of the grip is connected to the Napoleon bar end mirror.  It is tight to the bar end, and the grip, therefore, is also flush to the bar end, since it contacts this part of the mirror.  (The end of my throttle tube is about 1/16" shy of the end of the bar to that it doesn't bind against that part of the mirror.)

2.  You're looking at one of two things.  The "flange" on the grip is rather thick rubber, but it's factored into the ~5" length of the grip I measured.  Between that and the control housing is another foam/neoprene(?) disk, which I presume is designed to prevent friction between the grip and the housing.  Not sure if it's necessary, but another thing I'm dealing with is "stiction" in the throttle--not easy to turn and doesn't spring back readily.  Thought it might help.  I'm not sure OURY grips would help since the 5" dimensions are the same, no?

3.  Maybe I'll try filing away at the control housing to allow the wires to exit more downward as you suggested in your last post.

2. whats the fat rubber ring between the grip and the control?  maybe about 1/4" thick

That is part of the grip, I have Progrips too.  Could be shortened if that would make a difference.

I also thought the MC was rotated too far forward.

Ya....I think the progrips are the issue here    they take up too much space and dont allow tight stacking.
The MC needs to be rotated to fit and easy finger reach.  That position might be most comfortable for him.
These bars do put you pretty far forward.   His brake line sure needs to be rotated downward 

Steve-o, by shorten I presume you mean carve it off, leaving the smaller, thinner flange behind?  Even so, I'd still have to trim the throttle tube, too, to make any difference in the control spacing, right? 

Yes, my suggestion was to cut off that thick portion of the grip.  And yes, you'd have to trim the throttle tube as well.  No biggie, i've done it before so there is minimum gap between the grip and the control.

Not sure if this is your best option but just wanted to throw it out there.

[scottly]

My throttle grip is 4.5" long. As for the binding, there needs to be clearance between the inside end of the grip and the throttle housing.

[Stev-o]

My throttle grip is 4.5" long.

My Progrip is 5.375".

[scottly]

I looked at a stock 750 grip, and it was also 5.375", but the usable length of the stock throttle tube was only 5"?? Both of my other Hondas have 5" grips.

[flybox1]

My throttle grip is 4.5" long.

My Progrip is 5.375".

My gran tourismo grips are 5"

[mgzych]

My throttle grip is 4.5" long.

Scotty, what kind of grips are those 4.5-inchers?

[scottly]

My grips are a dense foam, but I don't recall the brand as they've been on the bike for years now. The throttle tube is also shorter than a stock 750 tube, but it's an aftermarket throttle assembly, so it wouldn't apply to your situation. 

[mgzych]

Yes, my suggestion was to cut off that thick portion of the grip.  And yes, you'd have to trim the throttle tube as well.  No biggie, i've done it before so there is minimum gap between the grip and the control.

Not sure if this is your best option but just wanted to throw it out there.

My throttle grip is 4.5" long. As for the binding, there needs to be clearance between the inside end of the grip and the throttle housing.

Did you use light lube under the throttle sleeve?  There should be NO resistance or binding of the throttle sleeve.  Mine has play in all directions.  Up to but no more than 1mm in any direction...even rotational play, before the cables 'engage'.
Find out where your throttle is binding.  omitting it might help your spacing.
That foam/neoprene ring seems hokey    Is it causing your poor throttle return?

I think I worked it out.

On the spacing...  Slid the brake clamp just a little further on, protected the wires coming from the switch housing with some gorilla tape and wedged the throttle housing up a little tighter, and removed the neoprene disk (yeah, it was "hokey"), and it all seems to fit.  Didn't end up having to trim anything, and was able to create just enough spacing at both ends of the grip.

But, throttle was still tight...  Lifted the tank and found the cables had been caught somehow between the its rubber mounting posts and the tank "c" brackets...probably for years.   One was chafed right through the inner sleeve.  Opened up the throttle housing and found the push cable had been pinched between the two halves.  Frayed with half the strands broken.  Not sure if I did that or someone else previously.  Time for new cables!  Is Motion Pro the right choice?  Without the cables attached, the throttle grip turns just fine!   If I'm to lube it, will 3 in one work?

And the brake banjo...  It's still rotated forward for now, but not useable that way.  Original rubber hose is too long.  With shorter, it looks like I could rotate the banjo about 90 deg toward the rear and let the line drop just over the headlight ear for almost a straight shot to the brake switch fitting on the lower triple.  Also, with the tight bend I noticed some cracking.  Replacements will be stainless steel brake lines.    Recommendations?  Slingshot?  Goodridge?  Galfer?  Any others?

Thanks for all the observations and suggestions.  It's great having guys like you to lean on for my first go at an old bike.

Mark

[Stev-o]

I prefer the OEM Honda cables but may be too long?  A lot of guys use MP and are happy, proper length is key.

Yes, get your brake line at Slingshot.  Shawn will custom make it, so measure carefully to determine the correct length [2" shorter than existing?].
Stainless is a nice upgrade, do both if you can.

[flybox1]

Nice that you've worked this out.
I run slingshot lines.  Great products.  I did go shorter, just cant remember how much, though. 
I used a section of cable to estimate total length needed.
Purchase Honda push/pull cables for the throttle.

[mgzych]

Yes, I'll change both the upper and lower lines to stainless.

I prefer the OEM Honda cables but may be too long?  A lot of guys use MP and are happy, proper length is key.

How precise does cable length need to be?  Whether I look at MP or OEM, it seems CB550F cables are CB550F cables as far as length is concerned. Only option I see is +10" on the MP cables. Am I missing something?  I'm thinking I can get a pretty smooth bend if I route straight through between steering head and right fork tube, just above lower triple, and come out beneath headlight to curve up to throttle housing.

BTW, are cable supposed to run above or below that forward rubber tank mounting peg that was chafing the originals?

[flybox1]

I run mine below the frame mount rubber.  I don't think it matters, though.
It looks like yours were pinched between the tank mount and the frame.
I run standard cables.  they are a little long to run with NHMBars, but, routed with easy bends, they are fine and no resistance.

[Stev-o]

I run mine below the frame mount rubber.  I don't think it matters, though.
It looks like yours were pinched between the tank mount and the frame.
I run standard cables.  they are a little long to run with NHMBars, but, routed with easy bends, they are fine and no resistance.

Go with Fly on this, I dont have the NH bars ... yet!

[mgzych]

Just wanted to report back my success… At least so far. Took everyone's advice… All but the Honda OEM cables… And it's all back together now. The motion pro cables seem to work fine, though they seem to have a little more free slack in them. I had to run the adjusters at both ends nearly all the way out in order to take up the slack.

But much better now…



I ordered the slingshot brake lines and a speed bleeder… Need to install and bleed.

Got the hardware… Still need to drill and tap the stops.

[mgzych]

If it's installed properly a whack of the hammer should not remove it. It can be ground or sanded off just like bond.
If you drill and tap the stops to put bolts in you can always fill them in later with the JB Weld. This way gives you easy adjustment if needed.

So I set about drilling and tapping my stops.  The first (left side) went flawlessly.
The second (right side)...not so much. Somehow my drill bit wandered inward and upward, so much so that there's no "meat" left above the hole. You can actually see the ridges of the tapped threads at the top of the stop. Clearly I'm not much of a machinist.

So, now I need more advice.  Do I just leave it and hope that it'll hold?  Or do I try to fill it somehow and try again?  I have no access to welding services.  So if the latter is a possibility, would something like JB Weld be the answer?  Can that be "machined" once it's in place?  I appreciate any feedback.  Here's to learning as we go...