Author Topic: How long to strip a frame? (Read 5579 times)

nickjtc · « **on:** October 13, 2006, 04:33:02 PM »

Question for all you guys and gals that have done your own restorations. About how long does it take to strip the frame of the engine and all of the peripherals? I mean to the point where it can be cleaned and prepped for repainting.

Is rattle can paint up to the job for a frame re-paint? Any other (economical) suggestions?

And looking ahead, what is the best way to get the engine back in the frame....... laying it on its side and dropping the frame over it? Using a floor jack and a burly friend (or two)?

Thanks in advance.

RSV12K · « **Reply #1 on:** October 13, 2006, 04:54:57 PM »

I don't think you can put a typical time on stripping the bike. If you worked at straight out, you could do it in a day. The thing you need to do is take your time and make sure you keep the parts organized when they come off. The frst time I did it, it took me a few months. The second time, about a week. The third time, three days. I got faster because I learned the parts well enough that I did not have to photograph, bag parts and everything else you need to know to get it back together.

Powdercoating the frame is your best option for durability. If I were using spray cans, I'd put as many coats on it that I could get away with and hope for the best.

Call a friend. Getting the engine in and out solo is a mother of a job. I've done it three times (laying the frame over) and loathe the thought of doing it again. Can't figure out a way to hoist it in mechanically.

cleveland · « **Reply #2 on:** October 13, 2006, 04:57:48 PM »

I just stripped down a CB400 to the point of just having the engine on the frame. It didn't take long at all, I did it with my 2 boys (2yrs and 5yrs) so that slowed me down a bit. I figure you could get it all done over a weekend if you don't have kids to trip over.

As for the engine, I am planning on laying it on it's side, but I am not rebuilding it. If I was, I would definitely go with a floor jack AND at least 1 buddy.

Of course I am a noob at this so someone with more experience can give you better advice I am sure.

USN20 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 13, 2006, 06:08:59 PM »

Quote from: nickjtc on October 13, 2006, 04:33:02 PM

Is rattle can paint up to the job for a frame re-paint? Any other (economical) suggestions?

For a rattle can paint job this is probably one of the best you can use, but it's more costly due to it's epoxy formulation.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=14348&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=400&iSubCat=402&iProductID=14348

jtb · « **Reply #4 on:** October 13, 2006, 06:10:50 PM »

Hi Nick,
It took me 2 days (approx) to strip down, I had a neighbor help remove the engine. (that accounted for a case of beer and about .75 days)

. I had the frame sandblasted, then powdercoated. I drilled a hole in the roll around wood table I made to put the engine on, laid the engine over on the right side with the shaft for the spark advancer in the hole, shimmed it with 2X4's, then laid the empty frame over the engine and had Martha drop the lower rear and front mounting bolts in. I'll never put an engine back in the frame any other way.

John

tsflstb · « **Reply #5 on:** October 13, 2006, 06:53:17 PM »

1 hour 30 minutes this last time on my 400, but I left the forks on. I've had a good bit of practice. I shouldn't be too proud of that. It means I'm breaking something way too often.

I used a rattlecan to paint the frame, and I can say it doesn't hold up very well. I got a few scratches from heaving the engine back in and from dropping assorted crap on it. It's easy to touch up though.

hymodyne · « **Reply #6 on:** October 13, 2006, 07:09:09 PM »

it took me two days to teardown the bike for this latest restoration, including grinding/cutting off all unnecessary apendages (i.e., rear footpeg mounts, etc.) I have a spraycan finish on the frame, complete with nicks and gouges from five different engine removals. this time I plan to scuff the whole frame after a throrough cleaning with degreaser and later acetone, and then touch up with spraycan- layer after layer.I just can't see the need in removing the portions of the factory paint just to replace with a fresh coat of inferior paint. I've done engine removals two ways, unbolt it and take it out slowly by hand while the frame is on the center stand, or sling a rope around the jugs and hoist the engine out with a block and tackle suspended from the ceiling. either way it seems to come out easier moving it out the right side of the frame. I've taped papered or in some way or other protected the exaust studs , or the frame parts subject to contact with them, or both during a removal

lift with your legs or call a friend,

hym

750goes · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2006, 07:44:38 PM »

Nick,

Took me 12 months

seriously - if you just want to pull the motor - 1/2 day

stripped to the bare metal frame - 1/2 day

abrasive blasted - then powdercoating - serious once only step - and a very tough finish - may cost a bit - but the finish is worth it..

motor back in when you have reassembeled everything else, repaired, degreased, repainted, restored, replaced, remembered where everything goes, just looking at it now brings back some great laughs (my stupid mistakes in putting things back on or together in the wrong order), then doing it again and again and again...

put some cheap poly pipe cut in half over the frame and tape it on- then manouvere the motor in place -(2 people minimum - 20 minutes with several attempts or you could get it first go).

putnaja1 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 13, 2006, 08:35:11 PM »

Is there anything between powder coat and rattle can? I'm looking for something that I can do myself, that is more durable than rattle can.. How can you reproduce what finish is done at the factory?

cleveland · « **Reply #9 on:** October 13, 2006, 08:43:57 PM »

I have a buddy that powder coats his home made jigs for fishing. He said it could be done with a bike frame but the thickness of the coat would be inconsistent unless you hooked the frame up to a battery (heat) and sprayed the powder with an air compressor.

750goes · « **Reply #10 on:** October 13, 2006, 08:59:32 PM »

bryanj

I believe there is some new rattle can - 2 pak paints that leave a finish similar to a professional job - but am not sure of manufacturer - read it on here somewhere - also more expensive that standard paint in a can...

nickjtc · « **Reply #11 on:** October 13, 2006, 09:08:18 PM »

Quote from: 750goes on October 13, 2006, 08:59:32 PM

bryanj
I believe there is some new rattle can - 2 pak paints that leave a finish similar to a professional job - but am not sure of manufacturer - read it on here somewhere - also more expensive that standard paint in a can...

Anyone...?

750goes · « **Reply #12 on:** October 13, 2006, 09:18:45 PM »

Nick,,
the stuff lasts only a few days in the can after opening or initial mixing of the ingredients - I suppose like two part epoxy glues like araldite??? I'm sure I read it here - I'll try and look also

750goes · « **Reply #13 on:** October 13, 2006, 09:19:54 PM »

here

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=13684.0

looked up PAINT it was on first page

nickjtc · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2006, 09:25:27 PM »

Quote from: 750goes on October 13, 2006, 09:19:54 PM

here

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=13684.0

looked up PAINT it was on first page

Than Q.

Andoo · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2006, 09:36:19 PM »

Longer than it takes to mow the lawn!

spitfire · « **Reply #16 on:** October 14, 2006, 03:54:54 AM »

Took me about 2 days to totally strip the bike, but I had already put up 3 X 5 foot long shelves to take the parts, I also took photos all through the stripdown to record cable/wiring runs etc ready for the rebuild. Had lots of ziplock plastic bags handy as well to bag off the parts and keep all the various bolts, clips,and washers together.
Took the engine out last thing, but took the engine bolts out in the wrong sequence, I took out the top bolts first which meant the weight of the engine was on the bottom bolts when I tried to remove them which made it difficult.
Will probably lay the engine on it's side and place the frame over it when I start rebuilding to stop scratching the paint.

Cheers

Den

Peter · « **Reply #17 on:** October 14, 2006, 08:08:41 AM »

I have a cb 550 that is my first bike to strip (i have done cars) and it took eight hours over a few days (I could only sneek away for a couple at a time so clean up and pulling out my tools factored into it. Yes the best way for the engine is to do it on the side.

Master Ted · « **Reply #18 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:12:26 AM »

OK, here's my take on the motor thing. It don't matter allot on removal if you nick the paint up for obvious reasons... but, going back in is another matter. With my method one guy can do it VERY easily.

CB500/550: place upside down milk carton (the plastic dairy company kind they don't want you to steal) on left side of frame and two on the right side of frame. Now lay two small pipes across the cartons through the frame. I used two of those telescoping poles campers use for a dining fly. Sit motor on your parallel poles on right side of frame (supported by two milk cartons). With bike on center stand the frame and milk cartons are the same height. With side covers and pan off motor just slide into frame with ease and ample clearance. Then, lift front of motor with block of wood and floor jack, remove pole, lower jack and slide in main lower bolt. For rear main bolt I lifted rear of case by hand, removed rear pole and inserted bolt. One man - very slick - very easy.

Obviously, you can reverse the procedure to take the motor out. Also, to safeguard paint on frame I wrapped it with a sliced-up old inner tube.

cmorgan47 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:14:50 AM »

if you're doing this, a bit of advice. zip lock baggies are your best friend. the freezer kind that you can write on. freezer bags and a sharpie. and a digicam.

i've always used a floor jack and buddy to get the engine back in, but i've only ever pulled 350/400/450 engines.

spray can will be fine for paint, but do it right....sand blast, paint, sand like crazy and paint some more. a friend of mine is buying a "home powder coater" from harbor freight for about $40...but i'm going to let him test it out on his frame first.

nickjtc · « **Reply #20 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:41:15 AM »

Quote from: cmorgan47 on October 14, 2006, 09:14:50 AM

a friend of mine is buying a "home powder coater" from harbor freight for about $40...but i'm going to let him test it out on his frame first.

What is he going to use for an oven to 'cook' it in when it is coated with the powder??

nickjtc · « **Reply #21 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:43:28 AM »

Quote from: Andoo on October 13, 2006, 09:36:19 PM

Longer than it takes to mow the lawn!

Careful here. Terry in Australia will get all excited!!

nickjtc · « **Reply #22 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:43:30 AM »

Thanks to one and all for your input. Keep the ideas coming. I really need the input to keep the motivation to get going on the two frame jobs I really must do this winter. (Sophie and Boy George)

nickjtc · « **Reply #23 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:43:53 AM »

Quote from: Andoo on October 13, 2006, 09:36:19 PM

Longer than it takes to mow the lawn!

Careful here. Terry in Australia will get all excited!!

cmorgan47 · « **Reply #24 on:** October 14, 2006, 09:51:00 AM »

Quote from: nickjtc on October 14, 2006, 09:41:15 AM

What is he going to use for an oven to 'cook' it in when it is coated with the powder??

from what he's said you don't have to. you run about 100v through the frame and spray the stuff on.

like i said, i'm going to let him "experiment" with his own frame.
otherwise, there's a powder coater here that will do it for ~250

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Author Topic: How long to strip a frame? (Read 5579 times)

RSV12K

USN20

Andoo

Peter