Topic: How long to strip a frame?

[nickjtc]

from what he's said you don't have to.  you run about 100v through the frame and spray the stuff on. 

Keep us informed, please. I thought that the current was just to provide attraction for the powder to 'stick' to whatever is being coated, and then the item has to be baked in a big enough oven.

[cmorgan47]

Keep us informed, please. I thought that the current was just to provide attraction for the powder to 'stick' to whatever is being coated, and then the item has to be baked in a big enough oven.

i thought the same.  sometimes this guy's a little hair brained, but sometimes not.

[grumburg]

I like to clean, bag, and tag parts as they are removed and make a list of what needs to be replaced. Hang cleaned parts on a pegboard. Even at that, it takes about 8 hours to the bare frame.

[scunny]

Nick, on your 650  you will find that the right hand side lower frame rail unbolts to ease engine removal, unfortunately I found this out after my engine was sitting on the bench. As for painting I was going to do it myself but went the powder coat way in the end. $200 NZ, for frame swingarm triple clamps and battery box, it looks great sitting in my lounge.

[Ernie]

if you're doing this, a bit of advice.  zip lock baggies are your best friend.  the freezer kind that you can write on.  freezer bags and a sharpie.  and a digicam.

i've always used a floor jack and buddy to get the engine back in, but i've only ever pulled 350/400/450 engines.

spray can will be fine for paint, but do it right....sand blast, paint, sand like crazy and paint some more.  a friend of mine is buying a "home powder coater" from harbor freight for about $40...but i'm going to let him test it out on his frame first.

I looked into those also but there 99 bucks here,  anyway hows your friend plan on heating the frame? thats the only thing stopping me from buying one!

[Ernie]

from what he's said you don't have to.  you run about 100v through the frame and spray the stuff on. 

Keep us informed, please. I thought that the current was just to provide attraction for the powder to 'stick' to whatever is being coated, and then the item has to be baked in a big enough oven.

dead right nic!....although i donno what the temperature has to be 

[750goes]

two hundred CELSIUS for half an hour... and its cooked...

[Andrew Foss]

when i had to remove my engine i pulled it using milk crates and a buddy....to put it back in i wrapped the entire engine and the surrounding frame rails with cling wrap (food storage stuff) and put it back in the same way i took it out. not a scratch.
-andrew

[Ernie]

heres an interesting site. everything from chrome plating to paint, powdercoating and annodizing it seems for large peices they use rather expensive heat lamps  http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/triple.htm

[seaweb11]

I can't imagine taking the time to tear a bike down to bare frame and then "cutting corners" to just rattle can the bike. If that's your frame of mind, just leave it as an old runner. Seems to me if you are prepared to take the time to disassemble the thing, you are looking at it as a long time companion. Would you pick up a 65 corvette, strip it down and go off to Canadian Tire for a box of rattle cans?

I've done two of these old birds now and how long it takes was never the question. My 1st took a month to take a part. I was VERY frightend, and took my time taking photos, making notes, and bagging the parts in a manageable order. The 2nd one came apart in a couple of days....I wasn't scared any more, and kind of had a clue, and a system based on the 1st rebuild.

Get The FU*KIN frame powder coated at a reliable shop and start your project with a good long lasting base. PERIOD!

I'm 45yrs old, the days of the quick, cheap fix are long gone. Wait, save your money and listen to your elders. Give that bike a loving home

P.S. How old are you?  just curious

[RRRToolSolutions]

Wait about 2 weeks and I'll post the frame mods you'll want to make so you can pull that engine anytime you want without scratching anything. You'll be able to pull the cover, the head, and the cylinders for years of top-end service and hotrodding.

Also, I agree with that said earlier - If you are going to the trouble to fully take it apart, then get a coating that will last a lifetime... powdercoat rules!!!

[seaweb11]

God if they only looked that way forever!!!!  a few puddles, the odd gravel road and .......well you know, a great bike

POWDER COAT
POWDER COAT
POWDER COAT
POWDER COAT

were there any other questions?

[nickjtc]

I can't imagine taking the time to tear a bike down to bare frame and then "cutting corners" to just rattle can the bike.
Get The FU*KIN frame powder coated at a reliable shop and start your project with a good long lasting base. PERIOD!
I'm 45yrs old, the days of the quick, cheap fix are long gone. Wait, save your money and listen to your elders. Give that bike a loving home

P.S. How old are you?  just curious

Interesting reply. I only asked the question out of curiosity; never suggested that I was going to take the quick, cheap fix! And what does age have to do with it? I'm older than you.

[cmorgan47]

honestly, i may end up painting my frame rather than powdercoating it this winter.  why?  for some of the work i'll be doing on it, it'll be much easier to tear down to the frame.  may as well recoat it at the time, and i most likely will not have the money for powder coating.  assuming i do go with paint, i'll use catalyst hardened paint, but it'll be paint. 

also, what are we talking in terms of usefull life here?  sure powder coat lasts till one year after the apocalypse, but a even decent, properly primed, cured, and cleared bomb can job will last for several years.  so maybe in another 8 or 10 years i do it again?  is that really that bad?  seriously, it's not like the frame of a car.  pull the engine, drop the wheels and forks, pull off and ORGANIZE THE HELL out of the little bits.

if it costs me $30 instead of $300 to sandblast and paint instead of powdercoat, i'll probably go that route....i'm broke and need several pricey parts.

[Master Ted]

I can't imagine taking the time to tear a bike down to bare frame and then "cutting corners" to just rattle can the bike.
Get The FU*KIN frame powder coated at a reliable shop and start your project with a good long lasting base. PERIOD!
I'm 45yrs old, the days of the quick, cheap fix are long gone. Wait, save your money and listen to your elders. Give that bike a loving home

P.S. How old are you?  just curious

Interesting reply. I only asked the question out of curiosity; never suggested that I was going to take the quick, cheap fix! And what does age have to do with it? I'm older than you.

Well, I'm 57 and am smart enough to have figured out how to retire at 53! Descriptions that anything other than power coating or anything "rattle can" is cheap, unacceptable, quick or corner cutting is what's called a gross generalization. I've got a near OEM work around on my frame using $44 of two part primer & paint out of a "rattle can". I've posted on the products previously. With the $200 very precious cash I saved I'm getting T100 Dunlops, fresh tubes and liners and will still have a couple of bucks left over. Sure, I would have liked a power coat job, but........my bike is looking real good, considering.

If you don't have the bucks to bang around and get what you want then do the best you can with the resources you have... just put your money where it will count and do the most good. Above all, beware of the all or nothing statement regardless of how passionate or well meaning.

Ted

[nickjtc]

I've got a near OEM work around on my frame using $44 of two part primer & paint out of a "rattle can".
Ted

Remind what that product is called, please. Thanks.

[nickjtc]

God if they only looked that way forever!!!!  a few puddles, the odd gravel road and .......well you know, a great bike

POWDER COAT
POWDER COAT
POWDER COAT
POWDER COAT

were there any other questions?

The only real challenge with powder coating is finding a place that has experience in doing motorcycle stuff, and that is close by. Apart from the cost, that is!

[dusterdude]

I can't imagine taking the time to tear a bike down to bare frame and then "cutting corners" to just rattle can the bike.
Get The FU*KIN frame powder coated at a reliable shop and start your project with a good long lasting base. PERIOD!
I'm 45yrs old, the days of the quick, cheap fix are long gone. Wait, save your money and listen to your elders. Give that bike a loving home

P.S. How old are you?  just curious

Interesting reply. I only asked the question out of curiosity; never suggested that I was going to take the quick, cheap fix! And what does age have to do with it? I'm older than you.

Well, I'm 57 and am smart enough to have figured out how to retire at 53! Descriptions that anything other than power coating or anything "rattle can" is cheap, unacceptable, quick or corner cutting is what's called a gross generalization. I've got a near OEM work around on my frame using $44 of two part primer & paint out of a "rattle can". I've posted on the products previously. With the $200 very precious cash I saved I'm getting T100 Dunlops, fresh tubes and liners and will still have a couple of bucks left over. Sure, I would have liked a power coat job, but........my bike is looking real good, considering.

If you don't have the bucks to bang around and get what you want then do the best you can with the resources you have... just put your money where it will count and do the most good. Above all, beware of the all or nothing statement regardless of how passionate or well meaning.

Ted

uh oh,another candidate for the bob wessner retirees club.

[Master Ted]

I've got a near OEM work around on my frame using $44 of two part primer & paint out of a "rattle can".
Ted

Remind what that product is called, please. Thanks.

Super Max
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=14364.msg141977#msg141977

[Master Ted]

uh oh,another candidate for the bob wessner retirees club.

So what is expected of me b/4 I'm accepted into the insiders club? You know - so your post will make sense to me... so I can laugh along too!

[seaweb11]

time................

[nickjtc]

Remind what that product is called, please. Thanks.

Super Max
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=14364.msg141977#msg141977

Thank you very much.

[grumburg]

honestly, i may end up painting my frame rather than powdercoating it this winter.  why?  for some of the work i'll be doing on it, it'll be much easier to tear down to the frame.  may as well recoat it at the time, and i most likely will not have the money for powder coating.  assuming i do go with paint, i'll use catalyst hardened paint, but it'll be paint. 

also, what are we talking in terms of usefull life here?  sure powder coat lasts till one year after the apocalypse, but a even decent, properly primed, cured, and cleared bomb can job will last for several years.  so maybe in another 8 or 10 years i do it again?  is that really that bad?  seriously, it's not like the frame of a car.  pull the engine, drop the wheels and forks, pull off and ORGANIZE THE HELL out of the little bits.

if it costs me $30 instead of $300 to sandblast and paint instead of powdercoat, i'll probably go that route....i'm broke and need several pricey parts.

My original frame paint was 80% good. Sanded bad parts to bare metal and coated with etching primer. Sanded the rest with 150 grit, wiped down with Prepsol, sprayed with primer-sealer. Sprayed 3 coats of Centari and color sanded. Looks awesome. Cost $30 and will last as long as I need it. Closest powder coater is 80 miles away and charges $300-$400 to clean and powdercoat a frame.

[EBCB]

A media blast of a frame costs me around $30. Then I always wash the frame with a acetone prior to applying powder. I usually run the metal through a heat cycle once prior to powdering just to make sure all oils are burned off.

We built a rather large oven specifically for doing motorcycle frames in - looks like a rather large telephone booth. Not hard to do, but probably had $500+ in it when we were done making it.

Depending on the color and material, 30 minutes at around 400 degrees F does the job. Lighter colors can be baked slightly longer and the color will darken ( a bright red can be made closer to blood red this way - just have to be familiar with your powders and know what they will and won't do). High temperature powders (for headers, exhausts, etc)  take slightly more heat and much longer cure times.

You could use the infrared heatlamps to powder a frame, but you'd be doing very small sections of the frame at a time as the maps would have to be very large or numerous to do a whole frame all at once. They tend to work best on flat suraces as well.

Eric