Topic: Replaced handlebars lost spark Help???

[2strokeTrush]

So I know this is a old thread and I thank everyone for the help, but rather then start another thread can I ask another question here???

I changed out to a new wiring harness and ignition switch ( 1977 to match the motor ) and replaced all the fuses in the electric panel, cleaned the area and grounded the harness by the coils, but cannot get any indicator lights to function, no power to any of the switches, nothing.   Expect when I go direct across the starter solenoid I turn the starter over.   When I rewired everything in the headlight is it possible something is that incorrect to screw everything up like that? Any idea would be great! thanks!

[calj737]

Id start with the key switch, since it brings power to the fuses. Voltage at battery, voltage at both sides of main fuse, then coming out of the key switch? Check in these places first. Then work you way from the key switch to the next connector.

[2strokeTrush]

Id start with the key switch, since it brings power to the fuses. Voltage at battery, voltage at both sides of main fuse, then coming out of the key switch? Check in these places first. Then work you way from the key switch to the next connector.

Thanks as always cal. What do you mean by " comming out of the key switch? Just the connections?

[calj737]

Power starts at the battery, travels across RED thru the Main fuse. RED wire runs to key switch, then splits across Black, Brown, and Br/Wht. If RED isn't getting or distributing 12v thru the key, it's not going anywhere in the bike.

Check the fuse block on both sides. Then on backside of key switch, place your probes on the solder points of the Blk, Br, Br/Wht with Key ON to verify voltage (if you unplug the connection, you won't get current to RED). Make sense?

[2strokeTrush]

Power starts at the battery, travels across RED thru the Main fuse. RED wire runs to key switch, then splits across Black, Brown, and Br/Wht. If RED isn't getting or distributing 12v thru the key, it's not going anywhere in the bike.

Check the fuse block on both sides. Then on backside of key switch, place your probes on the solder points of the Blk, Br, Br/Wht with Key ON to verify voltage (if you unplug the connection, you won't get current to RED). Make sense?

Yes thanks! No power to key, no power to fuse panel either. Only place I can get anything to register is on the starter solenoid hot comming off the battery

[calj737]

Hmmm.... Heres the color-coded diagram I use. The 77 harness will differ in a few places, but the RED from key to battery should be the same (is RED/WHT I think after passing the fuse block). Can you confirm its attached to the POS terminal?

- See the rectifier in bottom right corner, it runs R/W up to connector, picking up RED from fuse block, then runs to Positive.

http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CB550.jpg

[2strokeTrush]

Here's the solenoid is this the correct wiring to it? I feel like it's not correct. I have 3 leads comming into the solenoid. One black to the starter motor and then one from the battery and one that goes somewhere else behind the panel. Is it supposed to be just two leads connected to the solenoid?

[calj737]

You should have 4 leads to the solenoid: 1 to battery POS, 1 to Starter Motor (these are the 2 large gauge wires, and they attach to the studs. 1 Yellow/Red that goes to Start Button, and a Black that connects up thru the Regulator. The Y/R and Black are smaller gauge wires. The small gauge Black carries 12v to the solenoid and the Y/R carries the ground. The POS and Starter are DC voltage, not switched.

Find the Starter Motor on the diagram I linked, then look to its right to find the battery. To the right again is the Starter Magnetic Switch (solenoid) for correct wiring and routing.

[2strokeTrush]

Then yes something is wrong, because I have 5 wires leading to the solenoid. 1 large gauge to battery positive, 1 large gauge to start motor, 2 small wires with bullet connectors and one more large wire gauge with a red tape on it. Where does this one go? Take a look at this picture

[calj737]

Can you tell me where the 3rd wire on the stud goes? You have the 4 you need, the 5th is not stock. Trace it and let me know?

[2strokeTrush]

It goes into the back of the panel

[2strokeTrush]

Wait if you mean the 3rd in the picture that's the wire that goes to the battery right? That's what I assumed

[2strokeTrush]

I pulled back the tape off one of the large gauge wires just to see......red and white wire and one solid red wire leading to a circular connection

[calj737]

Ah, so what they've (PO) done is to replace the stock bullet connector with a ring terminal and connected it to the solenoid. That's fine. The straight RED wire in that bundle should trace back to the fuse panel. If you attach the ring terminal back to the solenoid stud, can you get 12v at the fuse end of that RED wire?

[2strokeTrush]

If this is what your talking about being the fuse end then yes

[2strokeTrush]

Lower solid red lights up, top is dead

[2strokeTrush]

Solid red down below is hot as well

[2strokeTrush]

Solid red here to

[calj737]

If this is what your talking about being the fuse end then yes

And do you get 12v at the other side of this Main 15a fuse?

[2strokeTrush]

If you mean the other end of the fuse itself I believe I did but I'm not 100% sure. I had to stop for the night but I'll be back at it tomorrow. What are you thinking?

[calj737]

From looking at what you have, I suspect somewhere along the RED path to the key, the PO modified its route and it's not transferring power to the key. We just have to find where the circuit is "broken".

[2strokeTrush]

From looking at what you have, I suspect somewhere along the RED path to the key, the PO modified its route and it's not transferring power to the key. We just have to find where the circuit is "broken".

Excellent thought, that gives me more to look for where before I was blindly trying everything. Any reason only a few of the solid reds would have power and the other couple do not? Maybe they lye along the path that was interrupted? I'll look for things like splices and electrical tape along the harness

[calj737]

Yes there is reasoning to it. If only the red or red/WHT legs on the battery side (those connected directly to the solenoid stud) are getting power, but not on the other side of the fuse, the the fuse block is an issue. Or, past the fuse, but not "thru" a plastic connector, the plug connections or pin outs are suspect.

It's really a matter of checking each leg, each connection, and verifying each circuit until you find where it drops out.

[2strokeTrush]

Oh ok, what do you think I should do about what the PO had messed with? I'm confused as to what it was before this because I don't see where any bullet connectors would have plugged up to?

[calj737]

It doesn't matter really, as long as the new connections are done properly and they circuits are fused per stock. Let's sort out why there's no power first, and determine if something he's done is the cause. Fix what's broke, kind of approach...