Author Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission. (Read 17184 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #75 on:** September 24, 2015, 08:56:52 PM »

Damn that machine decking the surface is no joke!

Jore · « **Reply #76 on:** September 24, 2015, 09:10:09 PM »

That's the smallest one they have, the biggest one is way bigger, it's a huge shop, when I come by for the cylinders all try and snap some more pictures.

Jore · « **Reply #77 on:** September 25, 2015, 03:52:21 PM »

Quick question, would it be advisable to add anti seize (like the type used for spark plugs) to the exhaust studs?

Jore · « **Reply #78 on:** September 27, 2015, 10:11:23 AM »

I got some new supplies yesterday so I can start the cleaning, first I got a full face shield, it's a real pita to use a pressure washer and have to kinda do it from the side as to not get sprayed directly in the face, I also got a respirator with the appropriate filter for chemicals, along with a really thin and long brush, that I might use to clean oil passages, some forceps to clamp scotch brite pads to, a thermometer for when I cure painted parts and finally copper sealant spray and a new tank for my torch, this last one I use on stubborn pieces that won't budge even after soaking them in penetrating oil.

Jore · « **Reply #79 on:** October 06, 2015, 11:48:23 PM »

I'm starting to prep the head for painting!

It's still missing a wipe down with acetone and maybe some scuffing with a scotch brite pad.

Jore · « **Reply #80 on:** October 07, 2015, 08:49:52 PM »

I finished tapping up all of the parts, I'll do the acetone wipe down using a scotch brite pad, even if it doesn't need it I don't think it would hurt it.

Edit: I also scored a dwell meter for about 15 bucks from the local ebay clone, but that's for when I'm doing the whole startup.

Jore · « **Reply #81 on:** October 11, 2015, 01:16:17 PM »

I began painting the top end. First I boiled everything in water, simple green and dish soap to clean all the grease out, after that I gave them a quick pass with a scotch brite pad and some acetone, and finally the paint, which I'll let are dry for a few days before baking it.

The boil:

Paint:

I couldn't find VHT paint locally but I came across a can of rustoleum engine enamel, it ended up with a real glossy finish.

The breather and tappet covers where done with duplicolor high heat aluminum

EDIT: I'll post results after the bake

Jore · « **Reply #82 on:** October 16, 2015, 10:13:01 PM »

Top end doesn't look half bad:

I still need to bake the black parts and polish the edge of the fins.

marting100 · « **Reply #83 on:** November 10, 2015, 06:35:45 AM »

Very nice job man! keep it up!
M

Jore · « **Reply #84 on:** November 10, 2015, 09:07:19 PM »

Sorry for not updating the post earlier but I've been out of town for a few weeks, anyway, here are the polished fins and the painted jugs, all of them are backed now.

And thanks for the support!

marting100 · « **Reply #85 on:** November 11, 2015, 05:32:49 AM »

nice!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #86 on:** November 11, 2015, 08:10:46 AM »

Are you going to polish the fins on the cylinders, too?

Jore · « **Reply #87 on:** November 11, 2015, 03:42:18 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on November 11, 2015, 08:10:46 AM

Are you going to polish the fins on the cylinders, too?

I'm thinking about it, they can always be repainted if they don't turnout so well.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #88 on:** November 11, 2015, 03:43:48 PM »

It looks good on the cylinder head. It would make sense to carry it through the cylinder/jugs for a uniform look on the fins.

Jore · « **Reply #89 on:** November 21, 2015, 12:56:36 PM »

Sorry for not posting in a while but I've been held up at work. Today i had some free time and machined a spin on oil filter adapter, getting parts isn't as easy here in Mexico, so instead of waiting a few weeks for a filter bought on line I can just go to the parts and get one. I designed the part around an oil filter for a 1.2L chevy Spark, the whole setup is slightly taller than the original filter housing and center bolt, mine's pretty mangled btw, so here are some pics of it.

In the mean time I'm waiting for some tools to arrive so I can split the cases to fix some issues with the chain tensioner.

strynboen · « **Reply #90 on:** November 21, 2015, 12:58:39 PM »

you need to run a front hweel...is there Space for that...

nice job machining it...i often use a small 4 clav senter ..in a big 3 clav..so i dont need to shift so often..you have a small 3 in a big 4 klav..not so good in English..but are a better maskinist ..its easy to build a by pass in the adapter to make a it a oil cooler adapter..

Jore · « **Reply #91 on:** November 21, 2015, 01:27:40 PM »

I can always machine a spacer for the wheel

Thanks, I wish the lathe was mine, the guys from the shop just let me borrow it for a while if it's not being used. The oil cooler is an interesting idea, it never crossed my mind, I'll look in to that and might modify accordingly.

Jore · « **Reply #92 on:** November 21, 2015, 03:41:29 PM »

I'll have to wait a bit to try that, I'm hopping it doesn't look as massive once it's in the frame, I did a quick eyeballing using the headers and the filter sits about an inch behind them if they're tucked up really close to the motor, or at least what's assembled of it!

strynboen · « **Reply #93 on:** November 22, 2015, 03:51:24 AM »

here is mine bike..not shure it gives any info...but looks to bee a lot of Space..on my 550 there is less room..think its fine..if the exhosts are free..

Jore · « **Reply #94 on:** November 22, 2015, 09:28:32 AM »

Thanks for the pictures Strynboen, it seems there will be space,but I'll have to wait till the motor's back in the frame to see.

Jore · « **Reply #95 on:** December 01, 2015, 08:26:59 PM »

I took the clutch out today, ended up using a chisel since I couldn't find a clutch tool anywhere, but the nut was off in 2-3 whacks. The whole stack was kinda stuck together inside the basket, so I'm guessing that's why it was binding, the fiber discs are all black and leave a residue kinda like clutch pad dust but mixed with oil, the one thing I'm most curious about is that I found 3 sets of 2 metal disks that where stuck metal to metal, no fiber disk in between them, is this normal?

strynboen · « **Reply #96 on:** December 02, 2015, 08:06:33 AM »

some stacks 2 metal plates to give more spring force..but odervise never metal/metal ..start and end plate is kork/friktion plates

Jore · « **Reply #97 on:** December 02, 2015, 09:50:35 PM »

Thanks Strynboen!

I took some pictures of my clutch is setup from left to right it goes like this: thin fiber plate, metal plate, fiber, metal, fiber,metal, metal, fiber, metal, metal, fiber, metal, metal, fiber.

I'm thinking the PO messed around with it judging by the marks the clutch nut had.

BTW, I've just made an order on 4into1 with a bunch of parts, hopefully I'll get them here before christmas.

marting100 · « **Reply #98 on:** December 03, 2015, 05:36:57 AM »

Hi Jore,
the PO did something for sure, I did not have metal on metal plates when I took mine out and
I am pretty sure mine was never touched, the nut was like brand new (not anymore since I tried the
hammer and screwdriver method before getting the tool ;-)
Cheers!
M

strynboen · « **Reply #99 on:** December 03, 2015, 07:54:55 AM »

this is 550..it have a special thik dubbel metal plate..vith some springs inside..but build up like 400...

News:

Author Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission. (Read 17184 times)