Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission.

[marting100]

Very nice job man! keep it up!
M

[Jore]

Sorry for not updating the post earlier but I've been out of town for a few weeks, anyway, here are the polished fins and the painted jugs, all of them are backed now.





And thanks for the support!

[marting100]

nice!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Are you going to polish the fins on the cylinders, too?

[Jore]

Are you going to polish the fins on the cylinders, too?

I'm thinking about it, they can always be repainted if they don't turnout so well.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It looks good on the cylinder head. It would make sense to carry it through the cylinder/jugs for a uniform look on the fins.

[Jore]

Sorry for not posting in a while but I've been held up at work. Today i had some free time and machined a spin on oil filter adapter, getting parts isn't as easy here in Mexico, so instead of waiting a few weeks for a filter bought on line I can just go to the parts and get one. I designed the part around an oil filter for a 1.2L chevy Spark, the whole setup is slightly taller than the original filter housing and center bolt, mine's pretty mangled btw, so here are some pics of it.













In the mean time I'm waiting for some tools to arrive so I can split the cases to fix some issues with the chain tensioner.

[strynboen]

you need to run a front hweel...is there Space for that...
nice job machining it...i often use a small 4 clav senter ..in a big 3 clav..so i dont need to shift so often..you have a small 3 in a big 4 klav..not so good in English..but are a better maskinist ..its easy to build a by pass in the adapter to make a it a oil cooler adapter..

[Jore]

I can always machine a spacer for the wheel 

Thanks, I wish the lathe was mine, the guys from the shop just let me borrow it for a while if it's not being used. The oil cooler is an interesting idea, it never crossed my mind, I'll look in to that and might modify accordingly.

[calj737]

I can always machine a spacer for the wheel 

Definitely want to check tire clearance... You could opt for a shorter filter if you find theres conflict (you need to test under full compression load of the front end). You surely don't want to discover theres an issue when you grab a handful of brakes to watch a beauty strolling across your path 

[Jore]

I'll have to wait a bit to try that, I'm hopping it doesn't look as massive once it's in the frame, I did a quick eyeballing using the headers and the filter sits about an inch behind them if they're tucked up really close to the motor, or at least what's assembled of it!

[strynboen]

here is mine bike..not shure it gives any info...but looks to bee a lot of Space..on my 550 there is less room..think its fine..if the exhosts are  free..

[Jore]

Thanks for the pictures Strynboen, it seems there will be space,but I'll have to wait till the motor's back in the frame to see.

[Jore]

I took the clutch out today, ended up using a chisel since I couldn't find a clutch tool anywhere, but the nut was off in 2-3 whacks. The whole stack was kinda stuck together inside the basket, so I'm guessing that's why it was binding, the fiber discs are all black and leave a residue kinda like clutch pad dust but mixed with oil, the one thing I'm most curious about is that I found 3 sets of 2 metal disks that where stuck metal to metal, no fiber disk in between them, is this normal?

[strynboen]

some stacks 2 metal plates to give more spring force..but odervise never metal/metal ..start and end plate is kork/friktion plates

[Jore]

Thanks Strynboen!

I took some pictures of my clutch is setup from left to right it goes like this: thin fiber plate, metal plate, fiber, metal, fiber,metal, metal, fiber, metal, metal, fiber, metal, metal, fiber.


I'm thinking the PO messed around with it judging by the marks the clutch nut had.

BTW, I've just made an order on 4into1 with a bunch of parts, hopefully I'll get them here before christmas.

[marting100]

Hi Jore,
the PO did something for sure, I did not have metal on metal plates when I took mine out and
I am pretty sure mine was never touched, the nut was like brand new (not anymore since I tried the
hammer and screwdriver method before getting the tool ;-)
Cheers!
M

[strynboen]

this is 550..it have a special thik dubbel metal plate..vith some springs inside..but build up like 400...

[Jore]

The only double stack (meta/metal) is in the middle according to your diagram, the PO definitely messed with the clutch, I'm also missing the snap ring, well good thing I'm taking the bike apart I guess.

I'll keep you guys posted on what's new, also forgot to mention that I'm mostly done with the new wiring idea, I just have to draw a schematic for it, but I'll be using a ford voltage regulator along with rectifier meant for wind mills (or something like that), as for the headlamp I saw a LED one about 7 inches in diameter that allegedly only uses 5 watts for high beams and 3 for low on our local ebay knockoff. The other important thing I'll do is a fuse block meant for blade type fuses and HEI modules for the ignition, something along the lines of this build.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145917.msg1716441.html#msg1716441

[strynboen]

i have used a Volvo reg before..dave from dovn ... used a ford i think
...they regulate voltage,,instead of load..so it vill never get over 14,8 volts...elektronik stopps that
so any new type batteries like the voltage reg better..and think the old types does it too...
redifier...all 3 inn fase types can be used.(.dont go the 2 fase reg build together...  its to komplikated)..
ve have that 3 fase in aur elektro shop..use them as 3#400 volt ac/dc..but they can fine do 12 volt..they are low kost..but need a kooling plate boltet on the bacl..just a alu plate nothing funky

is it pos 17 you are missing..it vas lost on my reserve bike..and the bolt have eaten a big hole in the chlutch cover..the po,have it weldet...so a common problem on 400 engines

[marting100]

The diagram is not exactly like the 400F, per example part 11 is something not present in the 400F clutch, I dont recall touching a snap ring either.
M

[strynboen]

yes.....the 550 have some differens...
here is the korrekt 400...klik on photo to get it bigger

you must have this book..it not possibel to find all the po fantastic fixes,, vitaut a korrekt book(almost korekt)

that elektric job is fine..but a bit bulky konnektor Blocks..look industrial elekricaian job use 220 volt komponents
but nice done..that regifier is exact the one ve use...

[Jore]

This will be the rectifier I'll be using



It's kinda bulky but I'll manage to hide it, now for the clutch I'll get more reading done and see what can I do to fix the wonders of the previous owner, thanks for the diagrams!

[Jore]

I few days back I ordered a tool to remove the piston pins and it finally arrived today, it worked like a charm! Best 15 bucks I've spent in a while, the 2 pistons from the right bank came out easily, but the ones on the left where more of a challenge since the clips that hold the pin in place didn't want to move, even grabbing them with some needle nose pliers was hard it not impossible on some, I managed just to remove 1 from the 4 so I just placed the pin tool and gave it a go, I should have done it earlier, the piston came out in like 5 minutes.

This is the tool I used, some Chinese thing I bought on the mexican ebay.
.

I'm a step closer to splitting the cases, but I'm wondering on what else do I have to remove, I'm pretty all of this has to go


But what else?

I've removed everything inside the oil pan, the starter motor, oil pump and the spark advance, what else should be off?

[Jore]

Based on the recommendations I got on the other thread I started on what more to remove before splitting the cases (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,153515.0.html) I managed to remove the bolt that holds the rotor in place by wrapping it with a tie down strap.