Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission.

[Jore]

The only double stack (meta/metal) is in the middle according to your diagram, the PO definitely messed with the clutch, I'm also missing the snap ring, well good thing I'm taking the bike apart I guess.

I'll keep you guys posted on what's new, also forgot to mention that I'm mostly done with the new wiring idea, I just have to draw a schematic for it, but I'll be using a ford voltage regulator along with rectifier meant for wind mills (or something like that), as for the headlamp I saw a LED one about 7 inches in diameter that allegedly only uses 5 watts for high beams and 3 for low on our local ebay knockoff. The other important thing I'll do is a fuse block meant for blade type fuses and HEI modules for the ignition, something along the lines of this build.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145917.msg1716441.html#msg1716441

[strynboen]

i have used a Volvo reg before..dave from dovn ... used a ford i think
...they regulate voltage,,instead of load..so it vill never get over 14,8 volts...elektronik stopps that
so any new type batteries like the voltage reg better..and think the old types does it too...
redifier...all 3 inn fase types can be used.(.dont go the 2 fase reg build together...  its to komplikated)..
ve have that 3 fase in aur elektro shop..use them as 3#400 volt ac/dc..but they can fine do 12 volt..they are low kost..but need a kooling plate boltet on the bacl..just a alu plate nothing funky

is it pos 17 you are missing..it vas lost on my reserve bike..and the bolt have eaten a big hole in the chlutch cover..the po,have it weldet...so a common problem on 400 engines

[marting100]

The diagram is not exactly like the 400F, per example part 11 is something not present in the 400F clutch, I dont recall touching a snap ring either.
M

[strynboen]

yes.....the 550 have some differens...
here is the korrekt 400...klik on photo to get it bigger

you must have this book..it not possibel to find all the po fantastic fixes,, vitaut a korrekt book(almost korekt)

that elektric job is fine..but a bit bulky konnektor Blocks..look industrial elekricaian job use 220 volt komponents
but nice done..that regifier is exact the one ve use...

[Jore]

This will be the rectifier I'll be using



It's kinda bulky but I'll manage to hide it, now for the clutch I'll get more reading done and see what can I do to fix the wonders of the previous owner, thanks for the diagrams!

[Jore]

I few days back I ordered a tool to remove the piston pins and it finally arrived today, it worked like a charm! Best 15 bucks I've spent in a while, the 2 pistons from the right bank came out easily, but the ones on the left where more of a challenge since the clips that hold the pin in place didn't want to move, even grabbing them with some needle nose pliers was hard it not impossible on some, I managed just to remove 1 from the 4 so I just placed the pin tool and gave it a go, I should have done it earlier, the piston came out in like 5 minutes.

This is the tool I used, some Chinese thing I bought on the mexican ebay.
.

I'm a step closer to splitting the cases, but I'm wondering on what else do I have to remove, I'm pretty all of this has to go


But what else?

I've removed everything inside the oil pan, the starter motor, oil pump and the spark advance, what else should be off?

[Jore]

Based on the recommendations I got on the other thread I started on what more to remove before splitting the cases (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,153515.0.html) I managed to remove the bolt that holds the rotor in place by wrapping it with a tie down strap.

 

[Jore]

I managed to remove the rotor, a M18x1.5 bolt is what's used to remove it if anyone's wondering about the size. Tomorrow I'll have another go and hope I can split the cases during the weekend and maybe prep them for paint.

[straat-toe]

Hey Jore.

Good to see you got enjoyment out of the bike before taking it apart. Unlike me. I'm finally rebuilding the engine a few years down the line.  If this is your first time splittng the 400 cases. Remember to take the Primary shaft out.

It makes splitting the cases much easier when the primary chain isn't attached to both the primary shaft and the crank shaft. The tensioner that's attached to the top case loops around the crank and holds the cases pretty much together while the primary chain is still on the primary shaft..... You might already be aware of it. Just thought I would give you a heads-up. This was my biggest Noob learning curve when I split my 400. 

Good luck. 

[Jore]

Thanks Straat, i think I managed to ride it for about 300 km before taking it apart, it's been about 2 years now since I've ridden it.

[strynboen]

on mine first 400 f..i had big problems..to get the crankshaft ,and that horseshue tensioner..to free
..think i vill cut the cam chain..on my NeXT procjekt..think it vill free it up.
.hope to get on the 400.. this Winter..have only have one ride 150 km..on the bike..the rattel vas to hard..so put it avay for better times...riding the 550 ..last seson..

[Jore]

I haven't played around much with the chain, but a few days back I could slide some parts around without to much trouble, hope it's the same deal with the chain.

Also being that I now have an electric impact wrench disassembly is going so much smoother I had been having trouble removing the front chain sprocket because it would spin on it's every time I tried using a spanner or socket on it, with the impact it was less than a minute!

[Jore]

By the way after removing the sprocket I found this:



Besides being really grimey, it appears to have a wad of human hair  no idea on how that got there, either way I'm cleaning that up and replacing the oil seal.

[Jore]

THE CASES ARE SPLIT!!!!!!!!!

I've split them today, surprisingly the most complicated part was removing a snap ring, the cheapo pliers I had bent, so I had to get new ones, everything else was pretty straight forward.

I first moved the housing to a work bench.



Then I drilled the bench so I could pass the stud through



And that was the setup


I marked a piece of cardboard to place all the bolts and split the cases, it was really easy (you can see the cardboard in the back there) I also found out that I could run my impact driver with the old battery.


The trans looks good and the shift forks are thick and don't seem to be worn out


It started to get dark so I just wrapped the trans in some cling film and called it a day.


I'll continue tomorrow.

[Jore]

Today I changed the drain plug on the oil pan. The original one was pretty mangled up and almost round, the PO appears to only have worked on the bike using vice grips and a hammer.

This is the original one:


A side to side on both of them, the new one is stainless steel slightly thicker and has a magnet on it, I got it at a local parts store It's an M14 size.



I drilled the original threads since some of those where also messed up and tapped the new ones, from the inside clearance seems to be good also.



I also gave the oil pan a coat of bed lining, originally I had painted it silver like the  breather cover, but It didn't look the way I wanted so it ended up being black.



Later today I'll head down to the machine shop and figure out a solution to the cam adjuster, I'm leaning towards something like this:

[Redline it]

Today I changed the drain plug on the oil pan. The original one was pretty mangled up and almost round, the PO appears to only have worked on the bike using vice grips and a hammer.

This is the original one:


A side to side on both of them, the new one is stainless steel slightly thicker and has a magnet on it, I got it at a local parts store It's an M14 size.



I drilled the original threads since some of those where also messed up and tapped the new ones, from the inside clearance seems to be good also.



I also gave the oil pan a coat of bed lining, originally I had painted it silver like the  breather cover, but It didn't look the way I wanted so it ended up being black.



Later today I'll head down to the machine shop and figure out a solution to the cam adjuster, I'm leaning towards something like this:

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

[strynboen]

uou need a o ring to make it leak free..that oil vill kreep through the threddet part..or give it some thik lockteit..
i have made one like yours..but it still rattel..so think my thain are gone to far..
have to make a better tensioner bolt. this one is a test. think it vill leak..need to make a cylendric part the o ring rest against,,and a groove it can seat in

[Jore]

Thanks for the o-ring idea, hadn't thought of that.

[Restoration Fan]

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

LOL, I saw that episode.  The first couple of videos of his that I watched, I was like WTF?  Then I realized I was being stupid because he was just spoofing stuff.  At that point, I started enjoying his videos again...they're 'badass". 

[Jore]

I'll have to start watching those then lol.

[thirsty 1]

Today I changed the drain plug on the oil pan. The original one was pretty mangled up and almost round, the PO appears to only have worked on the bike using vice grips and a hammer.

This is the original one:


A side to side on both of them, the new one is stainless steel slightly thicker and has a magnet on it, I got it at a local parts store It's an M14 size.



I drilled the original threads since some of those where also messed up and tapped the new ones, from the inside clearance seems to be good also.



I also gave the oil pan a coat of bed lining, originally I had painted it silver like the  breather cover, but It didn't look the way I wanted so it ended up being black.



Later today I'll head down to the machine shop and figure out a solution to the cam adjuster, I'm leaning towards something like this:

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

Put the lower locking nut in a vice. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill a chamfer into the nut. Install a oring the size of the adjuster stud and Voila' ! Oring on your adjuster.

[thirsty 1]

uou need a o ring to make it leak free..that oil vill kreep through the threddet part..or give it some thik lockteit..
i have made one like yours..but it still rattel..so think my thain are gone to far..
have to make a better tensioner bolt. this one is a test. think it vill leak..need to make a cylendric part the o ring rest against,,and a groove it can seat in

sorry I missed this up above. Take the nut off and do the chamfer (counter sink) the o-ring.

[Redline it]

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

LOL, I saw that episode.  The first couple of videos of his that I watched, I was like WTF?  Then I realized I was being stupid because he was just spoofing stuff.  At that point, I started enjoying his videos again...they're 'badass". 

What? Spoofing stuff? His tin snips are some bad ass cutters.

[Jore]

Sorry for not updating anything but the holidays got in the way, I've got a new petcock for the tanks, it's a harley unit instead of something from honda, I'm using an adapter to mount it. Check out this post If you want further info:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,154341.msg1765195.html#msg1765195

And this is how the part looks:

[Jore]

I got the cases painted and cured now, the turned out really well, now it's just a matter of putting the innards back in the correct order. So here are the pics of it.

Lower case, with oil filter adapter, also the oil pan and filter are painted truck bed lining.


Upper case


Lower case mounted in the frame to get an idea about fitting and clearance for the new filter. I got really exited when I saw this in place.


And finally the painted parts and the new seat


Now I need to get the innards back in to the cases, is there a more detailed manual on how to put that back? I have the service manual for the bike, but the instructions are kinda vague to my understanding. All the tips are welcome.