Topic: Indicators

[fodzilla]

Hi,

First post so sorry for anything that been stickied already on this topic!  I had a look about and couldn't find anything. 

I'm new to bike building so still learning the terminology as I go as well as the bike itself! 

As you'll read now...

I have a cb500 '75.   Managed to get it running at the weekend and built myself (well half) a new wiring loom for it.  It runs and starts off a starter button when the ignition is in position 1.   Next job is wiring the indicators / front & back lights and horn for the MOT.

However, I'm a little lost as to how the indicators will flash.  I have a  new switch gear (eBay) and wanted to keep the electrics that don't start the bike on a seconds loom.  (First build and in a rush to get it on the road before it'll be rebuilt fully over the next winter)

Is there a kit I can use or something I need to make them flash?  Or will the switch play a part in it.  I used the wiring diagram and a couple of simpler ones I found on line to get it running, they mention a "Winker" and wasn't sure if that's a part I'm missing. I have boxes of spare parts that came with the bike!

This might be a simple question but one I can't seem to find an answer too....sorry

[FunJimmy]

You will need a flasher unit (winker) to provide power pulses to the signal lights.
There are flashers for standard incandescent lights and special flashers for LED lights.
Consult you wiring diagram (or download one from the manuals section of this site) for wiring specifics.

[calj737]

A little expansion on FunJimmy's reply-

The stock Winker relay is electromechanical and relies on good voltage, either form the battery, or the stator when the motor is running. Modern Winker relays are electronic, and thus rely on lower voltages and can interact with LED winners by using an inline resistor, or diode, or other 3 prong relays.

Power to the stock relay is handled through the loom and you'll find it located under left side cover, round body device with little discernible info on it.

As for "separating the looms" this is actually done already for you somewhat by virtue of the fuse panel. The Main fuse powers the ignition, starter solenoid, and background circuits. The other circuits supply power to the headlights and Taillights (some difference in Euro spec models we didn't get here in the States).

You will also find the stock indicator and switch housings ground to the frame so bare metal is essential for proper operation.

There's a member, Deltarider, who's in Netherlands and has I believe a late model 500 (may be a 550) and is quite familiar with the idiosyncrasies of the Euro spec diagram changes. Hopefully, he will pop along, else you could send him a Pesonal Message thru the forum.

Cheers-

[fodzilla]

Thanks for the responses, it's opened up a new area of topic that I have now realised I need to understand! Makes perfect sense what both of you have mentioned! 

Grabbed myself a few LED bulbs, inline resistors and a flasher from eBay today!  Should have the electrics up and running this weekend when they arrive!  Final pieces to complete to get this thing on the road!

Will keep you updated with my progress!  I think for the front and brake, I will wire a standard on off switch and avoid the ignition completely! Should speed up the progress until the Winter when I fully powder coat and re-build.

[martin99]

You mentioned the MOT so I assume you're UK based.

Winker is a colloquial term for indicator, more commonly called a turn signal in the US. Most indicator relays are listed as 'flasher unit' if you search for one. Do not confuse this relay with those used with led bulbs.

The Honda stock flasher unit will have the capacity to manage 2 x 18-23v bulbs plus a 3.4w warning light. These values are usually printed on the side of the flasher unit. Some may state 4 x 18-23v. These are for the operation of hazard warning lights (ie all four indicators flashing at the same time) and are not usually found on these old bikes.

Regarding the MOT - if you have indicators fitted they have to be operational, as does the warning light. If you bypass the switch on the handlebar controls you may be on a sticky wicket MOT wise. To be on the safe side, I would use the proper switch.

[333]

There is a 3 prong flasher(winker) that doesn't rely on current, so you could get away without using resistors. I always thought that the reason to go LEDs was to save watts so you can use a decent size headlight, and still at least come closer to charging at speed. In other words, if you bump up the headlight from the dismal 35 watt bulb to a 55/60 halogen, the alternator doesn't put out enough to charge the battery when the headlight is on.

But then there's this. Who needs indicators?  It's nobody's business where you're going.

[fodzilla]

Thanks for the updates.  I wasn't aware that I needed the warning light working for the MOT.  Is this the indicator warning light you're referring to?

I found a wiring diagram that shows everything I needed and made sure I got a LED flasher relay and lights in a kit together so they are compatible.  I have a couple of resistors in case the lights are flashing to quickly for the MOT test should I need them at the last minute.

[evanphi]

Thanks for the updates.  I wasn't aware that I needed the warning light working for the MOT.  Is this the indicator warning light you're referring to?

I found a wiring diagram that shows everything I needed and made sure I got a LED flasher relay and lights in a kit together so they are compatible.  I have a couple of resistors in case the lights are flashing to quickly for the MOT test should I need them at the last minute.

The LED lights with an LED rated flasher should wink at the normal rate. It would be if you used LEDs on a standard flasher they would go fast, or not at all!

[martin99]

Thanks for the updates.  I wasn't aware that I needed the warning light working for the MOT.  Is this the indicator warning light you're referring to?

That's the one. Basically if it's fitted it should be working. But a lot depends on the discretion of the tester. If you remove the indicators, switch, and tape over the warning light then it should pass, with no indicators at all. We used to remove the horn button and clamp a bicycle-style bulb horn to the handlebar (you could fart louder) to save on wiring and that used to pass too. But like I say, a lot depends on the tester and that's why I'm suggesting caution. Hopefully you will get a sympathetic one. Good luck for the MOT!