Topic: any tips on cold starting a 550 with kicker?

[CapeCafe]

I have a 76 550k that is a bear to start with the kicker when cold.  Once warmed up it purrs like a kitten and restarts with a single gentle push on the kicker.  It will fire right up on the starter button . when cold.  Now the starter button finally cracked and needs replacement, so I have to kick the bike to start.  Were these bike hard to kick start cold when new?  I like the simplicity of the points, but am guessing an electronic ignitiin make solve the hassle of 10 min of kicking to fire the bike when it's cold.  BTW, the points, plugs, condensors, wires are all new, gapped correctly, timing set right, carbs completley rebuilt as new and synched.  Basically wverything is new and the bike runs perfect when warm.  Any tips to solve cold starting would be appreciated.  Thanks

[eigenvector]

I used to think they were.  Since my rebuild, mine starts cold first time I kick it.

My personal opinion is that engine compression is critical here - assuming of course the bike is tuned well.

[bender01]

I kickstart my 75 550k because my battery is dead or dying. It usually takes 3 kicks to go off. Battery is from 09 but once running its good to go!

[rocs]

Well, you could insert a screw inside the broken start button or use a screw driver on the starter solenoid...

[CoachDoc]

Are you using full choke when starting cold? These engines are very cold blooded. My '74 will start first kick every time unless it's been sitting for a very long time, like weeks or more, but I always close the choke completely. As soon as it fires I open it a bit, and then over a few minutes gradually open it all the way. When you kick it, be sure to give a good fast hard kick.

[strynboen]

no trottel and full choke..and 2 kick...and it runs...Work same vay on my 400 and 550 four

[mihai.i]

 I used to have a problem with my starter so, the only way to start was by kick. Real pain in the butt! Especially with my low compsression in the real cold wheather:(
First of all,
- check to be sure that you have a good charged baterry.
- check that the idle screw is set properly
- check for the choke cable to work properly.
- the fuel is on;
Next:
1.with the contact of and the choke closed give a few slow kicks...maybe 10
2.contact on, pull the choke, an star kicking hard and fast...i need almost 5-15 kicks
3. if it dont starts and smell like gasoline, close the contact, close the choke, open full throthlle and start kicking a few times, then repeat procedure at point 2.

As for my starter problem:
When i press the start buton i only could hear click click from my solenoid but the starter wont spin.
So..my solution to the problem:
- remove the plastic cover from the solenoid part
- make a direct connection between solenoid conectors with a scredriver. Got some sparks in the air but the starter spins.
- remove solenoid from his housing
- dismantle the solenoid..remove the 2 small screws and the 2 big bolts
- inside the solenoid there is a copper plate with a spring, but it was cover with some deposit. Clean the plate, clean all the surface inside and outside solenoid and the connector surface. Put back togehter.
- press the start button! All is good! Now the starter is spining
I thought it could be helpfull!

P.S. Sorry for my english

[BobbyR]

I have a 76 550k that is a bear to start with the kicker when cold.  Once warmed up it purrs like a kitten and restarts with a single gentle push on the kicker.  It will fire right up on the starter button . when cold.  Now the starter button finally cracked and needs replacement, so I have to kick the bike to start.  Were these bike hard to kick start cold when new?  I like the simplicity of the points, but am guessing an electronic ignitiin make solve the hassle of 10 min of kicking to fire the bike when it's cold.  BTW, the points, plugs, condensors, wires are all new, gapped correctly, timing set right, carbs completley rebuilt as new and synched.  Basically wverything is new and the bike runs perfect when warm.  Any tips to solve cold starting would be appreciated.  Thanks

The buttons were generic across all Jap bikes. They are easy to get and very easy to install. Try one or two slow kicks to charge the cylinders first, then kick it.

[CapeCafe]

You

I used to think they were.  Since my rebuild, mine starts cold first time I kick it.

My personal opinion is that engine compression is critical here - assuming of course the bike is tuned well.

Thanks for all the tips and ideas.  It is tuned spot on and I only have the cold starting problem when it's actually cold out...like 30 - 45 degrees.  I do give it 5-6 prime kicks with the switch off, then turn switch on, open the choke fully and kick like hell.  The floats are working and the bike is getting fuel correctly.  I've been kick start only for the last couple summers and it's never a problem when it's above 50-60 degrees.  It fires right up on the first kick.  I do need to run a compression check though.  I'm noticing some oil coming out of the head gasket on the right side.  There's only 14k on the engine and it does not smoke, leak or use any oil to speak of, but I could be off spec with the head gasket leak.  I just rebuilt a KTM 300 EXC and it wouldn't start with the static compression off just 15psi.  Took a bore, new piston/rings and gaskets and fires right up.

The buttons were generic across all Jap bikes. They are easy to get and very easy to install. Try one or two slow kicks to charge the cylinders first, then kick it.
[/quote]

I didn't think I could just get the button and backing plate fore the RH control.  When I've searched on-line I only found the whole RH control.  It was only like $80 for new one, but I've run all my wires inside my clubman bars and pulling them out and running new ones through is a pain.  I could replace the button without removing the wires.  can you tell me where I might find the "starter button' parts?

[wjustinleigh]

I have a drawer with a couple that aren't being used.  I think I have may even have a half a control with the button still in it.  PM me with your address and I'll mail you the button / control piece.  You don't need to pull out the wires, you can just unscrew it and hold it off the bar while you replace the button.  Holding the control, connecting plate, button and screw all in place while you insert it takes a bit of patience but isn't hard.

[Henning]

I use the kickstarter to get mine (750 K1) going in the morning, also when it's under 40-45 F. Full choke and a bit of throttle as you kick. Usually it starts first or second kick, but if it doesn't, it gets fiddly.  Then it's choke off and a handful of throttle in case it got flooded, then half choke and a bit of throttle, then full choke and a bit of throttle until it wants to fire on one or two cylinders. Ten minutes to get it started - if I understood that right - is nuts, I would have torched the bike by then. You don't need to kick it over to prime it - that's for pre- war bikes.

[CapeCafe]

48 F in my shed this afternoon and after 4 kicks with choke on the bike roared to life.  I closed the choke after 10 seconds and had to stay on the throttle for another 30 seconds and then it settled into a smooth 1,250 rpm idle.  The colder weather sure affects how this bike starts.  It's my only street bike with a kick starter, and it's one of the things I like about the little Honda.

Again, thanks for all the tips and offer of the starter button pieces.

[Rgconner]

Look at the HondaMan ignition, it will make starting a lot easier and keeps the points. Minimal cost and effort for maximum results.
http://sohc4shop.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=12

Designed and sold by a fellow inmate. $77 for now? What a steal!


Do remember that this is an energized alternator, so if the battery is dead, it won't run, and probably won't charge if the battery is lower than 10v
 

[Whaleman]

Back in 1972 when my 750 was new I won some bar bets that I could start it first time only using 1 finger. I never lost. Dan

[reddyvv]

I didn't think I could just get the button and backing plate fore the RH control.  When I've searched on-line I only found the whole RH control.  It was only like $80 for new one, but I've run all my wires inside my clubman bars and pulling them out and running new ones through is a pain.  I could replace the button without removing the wires.  can you tell me where I might find the "starter button' parts?

Here you go. It's a bit of a fiddle to get it in there as the wires in the switch are really tight so don't go yanking too hard or you'll be in for some soldering.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-STARTER-HORN-BUTTON-CB750-CB550-CB500-CB350-ETC-NEW-CB-CL-SL-/221235512245?hash=item3382aa03b5&vxp=mtr

[Gene]

I've always kicked mine, usually starts w/the first kick (full choke), sometimes 2. Thanx reddyvv for the button link.  I haven't been looking real hard for that, but I've *never* had a starter button.  PO lost it, I continue to kick.  Thank you!

CapeCafe, glad to hear all is well.

[CapeCafe]

Member WjustinLeigh hooked me up with a spare lower right control he had in his shop.  I always appreciate the help and effort SOHC members will extend to others.  It's a pay if forward group.  Thanks all

[bill44]

I thought my 78 550 was a hard starter until I realized that my choke was not fully closed. When I would pull the choke it would not catch at the fully closed position; it would back up 1/4 inch or so. I assumed that it was fully closed, but it wasn't. If I kick while holding the cable fully out (sometimes it catches in the fully closed position) it starts immediately on 1 kick after sitting for weeks. So check that your choke is fully closed!
Bill

[Duanob]

You could try richening the idle mix screws a 1/4 turn, I know mine got a lot easier to start after that.

[magnashopper]

Try kicking 3 or 4 times with the key off first. Then key on, choke and kick.

[CapeCafe]

I rebuilt the carbs as new and made sure the chokes were all fully closed and functioning as designed.  I did have to bend the choke lever out a bit to clear the K&N pod filter, but they all close fully.  I do typically give it 3-4 kicks with the key off before turning on.  The funny thing is now the temp is consistently above 50, it fires up on the first or second kick every time.  Even after it sits for a few days without starting.  It seems to just be a bear to start when it's 45 or below out.  I'll try and move the idle screw out a 1/4 turn and see what happens.  Hopefully the temp here on Cape will stay above 50 until next October, so I'll never really know until then if it helps   Thanks again for all the tips

[Dunk]

My 750 usually starts first kick hot or cold. When cold I use full choke and 1/8 to 1/4 throttle opening. More or less throttle than that and it won't start. I do open fuel petcock, on reserve if tank is low, and lean it a bit towards petcock side for a second before starting cold. Once it fires hold throttle to maintain 1000-2000 RPM and back choke off a hair, after a few seconds choke fully open. Mine has honed cylinders, new rings, valve job, Dyna-S and higher output coils along with iridium plugs and rebuilt carbs within past 1200 miles or so... Ignition upgrades were the biggest thing on any of my high mile bikes to make them a one kick start, so I'd say check your ignition system.