Topic: Clutch options for a streetable dragbike

[gschuld]

This is for a 1000cc diecast K0 engine(so early basket design).  What's the hot setup?  I should be under 600lb all up: bike, fuel, and rider.  Using wide 180 series DOT legal tire. It seems that using factory friction discs along with Barnet springs is a popular setup.

An extra disc is sometimes used as well right?

Basically what makes up an ideal streetable clutch for the strip?

And always bring a complete extra identical clutch setup to the track for big meets right?


I'm always interested in learning.

George

[dragracer]

This is for a 1000cc diecast K0 engine(so early basket design).  What's the hot setup?  I should be under 600lb all up: bike, fuel, and rider.  Using wide 180 series DOT legal tire. It seems that using factory friction discs along with Barnet springs is a popular setup.

An extra disc is sometimes used as well right?

Basically what makes up an ideal streetable clutch for the strip?

And always bring a complete extra identical clutch setup to the track for big meets right?


I'm always interested in learning.

George

I stand by stock steels and fibers in all of my dragbikes. Street tire and slick and bars. I do use HD clutch springs in the no bar F model.

[Retro Rocket]

Big Jay at APE has a beefed up street clutch that will suit your purpose....
Scroll down near the bottom...

http://cbrzone.com/sohc.html

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Yeah, an extra complete clutch pack might come in handy, (huh Bill LOL  )

[NalleyRacing]

APE extra plate clutch all day 

[TurboD]

What Frank said again... You cannot beat a good set of stock clutches and steels. Can't do it.. 

[dragracer]

Well, like they always tell me "i can show you better than i can tell you".

The attached is a time slip from my F model. Note the 60 foot time on the bike and ET. This is a full factory clutch pack in the bike. Later F model with the special steel plate and special outer fiber plate. I only have the heavier clutch springs. Motor is a 1030cc set up and the rear tire is a 180/17 Shinko Hookup. I'm running a fully functioning rear suspension with stock length Cycle Ex shocks set on the stiffest position.

All i can say is "judge for yourself" on the practicality of "stock" versus aftermarket clutches.

[gschuld]

Nice 60ft Frank  ...1.45   

Working with an 11/69 K0 motor (at 1000cc), I would be able to run the extra steel and fiber plate in the K0 clutch basket right?  And the stiffer Barnett springs are preferable?

Is that what you would use in a 1000cc K0 motor Frank?

George

[dragracer]

Nice 60ft Frank  ...1.45   

Working with an 11/69 K0 motor (at 1000cc), I would be able to run the extra steel and fiber plate in the K0 clutch basket right?  And the stiffer Barnett springs are preferable?

Is that what you would use in a 1000cc K0 motor Frank?

George

The APE extra clutch plate set up should work in that basket just fine. Please stay away from the Barnett kevlars for any type high performance riding/racing- ask Bill.  All i was trying to show was, don't get caught up in aftermarket parts being better than OEM parts.

I do have an F2 basket in my bike and use the full, OEM Honda clutch pack with Heavy duty clutch springs.

I have used the APE clutch pack/extra plate in my small tire Kaw dragbike when i had the hand clutch in there. I eventually went back to OEM plates and haven't used anything else since then in any of my bike from KAw to Honda to Zuk.

I'm no expert, all i can do is share my experience in hopes it will help another forum member not make some of the mistakes i've made.

[gschuld]

Please stay away from the Barnett kevlars for any type high performance riding/racing- ask Bill.

I got that message loud and clear .  I have a second big bore motor waiting behind the current one, so it would be nice to get a handle on these details so I won't end up chasing too many unnecessary squirrels...

George