Author Topic: Interesting article about Yoshimura 750 - Tuning CB750, std rods Ok max 9000rpm  (Read 3503 times)

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Offline PeWe

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I found an interesting article when reading this thread: http://hondachopper.yuku.com/topic/36093#.VUfVLpP5P7A
Downloaded the prints and transformed to PDF attached below.
OK, max 9000rpms for CB750 std rods. :(
-Possible to change rods without pulling the head? From beneath, pistons still in bore....

« Last Edit: May 04, 2015, 10:16:25 pm by PeWe »
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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I had the 812 Yoshi in for quite a few years with the stock rods and I've seen 10,000+ MANY times, thousands perhaps. As they said the Daytona cam makes full power at 9500 and up to 10,000. I did not have the full pop Yoshi, just the 812, Daytona cam with their S & W springs and no head work. IMO stock rods are fine until you go above 836. 
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline 754

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I shifted between 10K and 11K. A thousand times or more..
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
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Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline Badluckhonda

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Offline Retro Rocket

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
750 K2 1000cc
750 F1 970cc
750 Bitsa 900cc
If You can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

Offline PeWe

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Retro Rocket

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?

Think of it as insurance mate, I've had a stock rod come straight through the block, its not pretty.... :o  F2 rod bolts are bigger and stronger, its a start... ;)
750 K2 1000cc
750 F1 970cc
750 Bitsa 900cc
If You can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

Offline PeWe

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?

Think of it as insurance mate, I've had a stock rod come straight through the block, its not pretty.... :o  F2 rod bolts are bigger and stronger, its a start... ;)
Yes, I'm thinking about reinforce my engine with better rods.
I'm thinking about possiblity to replace rods by opening the lower case only. I hope that is possible. Remove cam to get more cam chain slack

The more expensive but maybe easier in the end is to replace the entire crank with a lightened one, rods mounted with correct bearings, correctly torqued and balanced. Perfect if crank will match my cases with B all the way and today not much used green bearings.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Badluckhonda

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We'll after cryro treatment I plan on running either later style bolts or ford 289 bolts

Offline HondaMan

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?

Think of it as insurance mate, I've had a stock rod come straight through the block, its not pretty.... :o  F2 rod bolts are bigger and stronger, its a start... ;)
Yes, I'm thinking about reinforce my engine with better rods.
I'm thinking about possiblity to replace rods by opening the lower case only. I hope that is possible. Remove cam to get more cam chain slack

The more expensive but maybe easier in the end is to replace the entire crank with a lightened one, rods mounted with correct bearings, correctly torqued and balanced. Perfect if crank will match my cases with B all the way and today not much used green bearings.


PeWe: the pistons will not slide down far enough to allow access to the wristpins if the cylinders are still on the upper case. They get stopped by the upper case. At the least, the cylinders must be slid upward about 1" (2.5cm for your metric guys...), but this will possibly break the cylinder base gasket?
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline PeWe

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PeWe: the pistons will not slide down far enough to allow access to the wristpins if the cylinders are still on the upper case. They get stopped by the upper case. At the least, the cylinders must be slid upward about 1" (2.5cm for your metric guys...), but this will possibly break the cylinder base gasket?

I hoped to avoid lifting head and cyl block again, only remove cam to get cam chain slack. Open bottom case, lift and remove the entire crank with rods, pistons will follow. maybe remove piston pins before pistons coming out of the bores completely.
It will probably be a mess with the chains. I have all gaskets, only oil seal kit missing. I might be curious how the head look like after +3000kms use after restore ;D
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline MCRider

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?
Back in the day...
I roadraced (briefly) a bastardization of parts: Yosh 2 ring slipper pistons, whatever size makes a true 750CC as that was the class limit, yosh head, stock size valves, RC big bump cam and springs, Weber carbs and a RD Racing Bol d'or replica pipe.  Stock rods.

I bent a rod into a pretty S curve. With a 750. So yes you can run stock rods, but there will always be that little devil on your shoulder saying, go ahead, wring it out.   ;D
Ride Safe:
Ron
1988 NT650 HawkGT;  1978 CB400 Hawk;  1975 CB750F -Free Bird; 1968 CB77 Super Hawk -Ticker;  Phaedrus 1972 CB750K2- Build Thread
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Offline livefast_dieold

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Adding my 2 cents here.

I'm racing with stock rods, DP62R pistons, DP315 cams and CR carburators. I had a word with Crispi, a long time mechanic of the vintage scene in Italy (http://www.crispicorse.com/), he told me not to worry about stock rods, as long as the bushings are ok! Rods break down when the bushing seize: the head of the rod sticks to the crankshaft and the rotation of the latter rip the rod apart

Offline HondaMan

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The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?
Back in the day...
I roadraced (briefly) a bastardization of parts: Yosh 2 ring slipper pistons, whatever size makes a true 750CC as that was the class limit, yosh head, stock size valves, RC big bump cam and springs, Weber carbs and a RD Racing Bol d'or replica pipe.  Stock rods.

The 2nd oversize (0.5mm) makes it 749.5cc, I think? That was the Yosh kit of the days when I was in "production" racing, which could not exceed that 750cc limit.

Generally, what we noticed was this: if the compression (dynamic, for the most part) got past 10.25:1 at high RPM, the rods got into troubles. Often, the cams wound to 11k, which put it past the stock rods. BUT...the midget-car guys ran steady 12K RPM with stock rods, using the stock cams and modified pistons with (much) deeper valve pocket recesses and little welded-in ridges across the center of the piston top to both raise compression (to offset those deep pockets) and to control the overlap burn rate. I never saw a midget-car guy ever bend a stock rod. That led me to believe that it was the meeting of valves and pistons that were overloading the rods at real high RPM, except in the cases where guys had the Powroll 11:1 CR forged pistons (heavy!) and were just pounding them into the bottom of the stroke - they DID do some things to stock rods...!
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline PeWe

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  • Bike almost back to the 70's 2015
The stock rods you guys are running im sure are not modified at all. I wonder if cryro treated polished rods can handle higher rpms

Bigger rod bolts are  a must...
Even with 836 10.5:1 and daily 9500 rpm?
Back in the day...
I roadraced (briefly) a bastardization of parts: Yosh 2 ring slipper pistons, whatever size makes a true 750CC as that was the class limit, yosh head, stock size valves, RC big bump cam and springs, Weber carbs and a RD Racing Bol d'or replica pipe.  Stock rods.

The 2nd oversize (0.5mm) makes it 749.5cc, I think? That was the Yosh kit of the days when I was in "production" racing, which could not exceed that 750cc limit.

Generally, what we noticed was this: if the compression (dynamic, for the most part) got past 10.25:1 at high RPM, the rods got into troubles. Often, the cams wound to 11k, which put it past the stock rods. BUT...the midget-car guys ran steady 12K RPM with stock rods, using the stock cams and modified pistons with (much) deeper valve pocket recesses and little welded-in ridges across the center of the piston top to both raise compression (to offset those deep pockets) and to control the overlap burn rate. I never saw a midget-car guy ever bend a stock rod. That led me to believe that it was the meeting of valves and pistons that were overloading the rods at real high RPM, except in the cases where guys had the Powroll 11:1 CR forged pistons (heavy!) and were just pounding them into the bottom of the stroke - they DID do some things to stock rods...!

I have often seen that bad things happen me often bring something very good in the end,  better than before. It can sometimes take years to fully realise it.
My first set of 836 pistons, forged RC with good CR adapted for the head with opened chambers.  Bad luck first year melting 2 of them. I replaced them with cast Action Fours that got lower CR with the head which I noticed when accelerating plus different and tamer sound.
I understand now that this was pure luck. I used the bike mostly on holidays with tours of 5000-6000kms in total during 3 weeks. Mostly high speed on Autobahn, Italian or French highways. I'm now convinced that the OEM rods did not fail due to the lower CR with Action Fours pistons with the heads opened chambers, more like the CB750 std CR.
(It must have been horrible to get a rod thru the case in high speed on a crowded highway or curved road in the Alps were speed was not low either. Overloaded bike with 2 persons + luggage)

The top speed however, did not suffer and the bike worked really well. I had no tachometer, top speed 210km/h with 17:48 gearing (about 8700rpms). I remember I often shifted to 4:th gear at 160km/h (100mph) which is about 9500rpms.  see excel chart.
Using OEM rods + high rpms can be OK with lower CR, right? I have higher CR now and got need of better rods in my mind.
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967