Author Topic: Slow crank. (Read 10349 times)

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #25 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:52:11 PM »

Still can jump sol and get great spark

calj737 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:56:43 PM »

Look at a stock wiring diagram:
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CB550.jpg

The colored wires are NOT 12v. Don't hook them to anything other a ground.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #27 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:58:07 PM »

How does the sol get power then shouldn't it in theory work then with IGNITION off?

calj737 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 07, 2015, 07:59:14 PM »

I give up...

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #29 on:** May 07, 2015, 08:03:05 PM »

No look. Where the second wire (not yellow red) is out of the Sol goes to power. Right?

Btw that was for a 550

Stev-o · « **Reply #30 on:** May 07, 2015, 08:06:40 PM »

Here's a stupid idea: get the correct starter switch.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #31 on:** May 07, 2015, 09:37:36 PM »

Im just thinking i have a solenoid problem and i want to know how to hook this up correctly. Got a button with two wires. Just want to know which wire i need to hook my button up to, and where to put the other wire up from the button. It should work, but if it doesn't i have a deeper problem than me button

Badluckhonda · « **Reply #32 on:** May 08, 2015, 12:31:49 AM »

Give power to yellow red and ground green red to frame

calj737 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 08, 2015, 02:22:07 AM »

Quote from: Badluckhonda on May 08, 2015, 12:31:49 AM

Give power to yellow red and ground green red to frame

Exactly.

If your aftermarket button has 2 wires, connect one of them to Yellow/Red and connect the other wire from your aftermarket button to ground.

Your solenoid should have the Yellow/red connected to it, plus the Green/Red stock wire or, install a ground wire to the solenoid if your stock wire is missing.

The two large studs on your solenoid need to be connected 1-battery POS and 1-starter motor. This has been answered repeatedly and correctly numerous times. If none of this makes sense, take a picture of your solenoid and post it. Same with your button.

If after that happens and you still can't make sense of it, give me your address and I'll drive from VA and connect the wires for you. I can probably do it in less time than it took to type this post.

PeWe · « **Reply #34 on:** May 08, 2015, 02:41:36 AM »

I had a slow/weak electric starter due to wrong connected ground cable from battery to frrame. (CB750).

I understood and verified it 25-30 years later when I read a thread on this forum. I had connected the ground wire close to the battery, same bolts holding the tool box tray. It was easy to do it.
At last restore I connected it with the rear engine bolt, scratched paint to ensure good contact with frame and engine cases. No weak starter when engine is warm anymore.
I had to use the kick starter and plenty of throttle when engine was hot back in the days scaring the hell out of people at gas stations when the loud 4-1 suddenly screamed as a F1 car. I remember a woman at a gas station in Italy that got here ice cream in her face, a real facial

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #35 on:** May 08, 2015, 04:15:10 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 08, 2015, 02:22:07 AM

Quote from: Badluckhonda on May 08, 2015, 12:31:49 AM
Give power to yellow red and ground green red to frame
Exactly.

If your aftermarket button has 2 wires, connect one of them to Yellow/Red and connect the other wire from your aftermarket button to ground.

Your solenoid should have the Yellow/red connected to it, plus the Green/Red stock wire or, install a ground wire to the solenoid if your stock wire is missing.

The two large studs on your solenoid need to be connected 1-battery POS and 1-starter motor. This has been answered repeatedly and correctly numerous times. If none of this makes sense, take a picture of your solenoid and post it. Same with your button.

If after that happens and you still can't make sense of it, give me your address and I'll drive from VA and connect the wires for you. I can probably do it in less time than it took to type this post.

Dude. The two big posts weren't the issue, it was the little ones. You can stay in Virginia, but i appreciate all the help!

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #36 on:** May 08, 2015, 05:21:19 AM »

So this morning before work I hooked it up and described from above and still nothing. I also hooked jumper wires from yellow/red to the positive on batter, and a jumper from green/red and touched several spots on the frame. Still nothing.

Guessing this may be a bad solenoid

Bodi · « **Reply #37 on:** May 08, 2015, 06:04:04 AM »

You started out with:

"After market start button, fresh battery.
Slow crank with the button. Fast as hell when i jump solenoid.
Button or solenoid?"

Which would be, almost unquestionably, a failing solenoid. Spinning fast with the posts jumpered says your battery and the starter cabling is OK. Some problem in the wiring harness leaving very low voltage at the solenoid wires might result in a poor, and arcing, contact inside the solenoid and slow cranking. Corroded and burned contacts would do the same with proper voltage.

Now you say the solenoid doesn't even work when you connect battery "+" to one of the two control wires and battery "-" to the other. That's now a failed solenoid.
The story has gotten rather complicated now though, so I'm not sure you did that test.

Don't waste time rewiring the start button if 12V battery voltage across the solenoid wires does not result in a strong click from it - polarity does not matter. Until you have a solenoid that works reliably, testing the button wiring will be near impossible. I would disconnect the starter motor cable from the solenoid post so the starter doesn't run - when doing tests or wiring the button so it works, there's no need to drain the battery that way.

The original problem was probably a gummed up solenoid mechanism and/or corroded solenoid contacts. Properly servicing the thing may bring it back to life: used ones can be good after servicing, usable new replacements can be found at any lawn machinery shop, and new OEM ones are available (crazy expensive compared to a John Deere one though).

Once you have a working solenoid, proceed to wiring the switch.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #38 on:** May 08, 2015, 06:45:50 AM »

Quote from: Bodi on May 08, 2015, 06:04:04 AM

Now you say the solenoid doesn't even work when you connect battery "+" to one of the two control wires and battery "-" to the other. That's now a failed solenoid.
The story has gotten rather complicated now though, so I'm not sure you did that test.

This is the test i did this morning trying to pump 12 volts in directly into those two wires. Guessing the PO hooked up the SOL that way just to get by. I will check my battery once more, but it appears as though my SOL it toasted.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #39 on:** May 08, 2015, 08:44:27 AM »

Anyone tried an aftermarket replacement?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Ship-Starter-Relay-Solenoid-Motorcycle-For-Honda-CB750-1969-1978-/171530031528?fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3ACB750&hash=item27effc91a8&vxp=mtr

ekpent · « **Reply #40 on:** May 08, 2015, 09:08:48 AM »

Quote from: Sdsbassist on May 08, 2015, 08:44:27 AM

Anyone tried an aftermarket replacement?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Ship-Starter-Relay-Solenoid-Motorcycle-For-Honda-CB750-1969-1978-/171530031528?fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3ACB750&hash=item27effc91a8&vxp=mtr

Member Don showed you one on post #20 that he has used if you wanted to rig up a non stock. They easily can be purchased at most hardware and home center stores.

Badluckhonda · « **Reply #41 on:** May 08, 2015, 10:14:44 AM »

The reason I said to ground to frame was to elimanate the button. If your absolutely sure your getting 12v to one of the control wires (e.a using a voltmeter) Then are applying ground to the other you solenoid is no good. Try taking it apart and cleaning it up inside then can get a replacement.

Oh wait another option is just start kicking the darn thing

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #42 on:** May 09, 2015, 04:06:13 AM »

New one on the way.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #43 on:** May 13, 2015, 08:08:38 PM »

Got another one, same thing. Tried hooking right to power again and nothing. Here is what I did:

It should be that simple to hear the thing crank

Badluckhonda · « **Reply #44 on:** May 14, 2015, 01:15:34 AM »

Make sure that red yellow has power

calj737 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 14, 2015, 03:14:25 AM »

the thin black wire on the solenoid carries 12v to it. If you are running it to ground, the solenoid gets no power.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #46 on:** May 14, 2015, 04:13:10 AM »

Bad luck and cali...do you see now how you are contradictory here? One of them has got to be a ground right

calj737 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 14, 2015, 05:02:49 AM »

the Yellow/Red wire coming from the START button is a GROUND. The stock BLACK carries 12v. If you have it isolated from the harness, then connect either to GROUND, not, NEG, and the other to POS.

The only "bad luck or call" is your failure to understand the solenoid is a relay and thus needs polarity to activate the pass-thru of DC current to the motor.

Sdsbassist · « **Reply #48 on:** May 14, 2015, 05:26:46 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on May 14, 2015, 05:02:49 AM

The only "bad luck or call" is your failure to understand the solenoid is a relay and thus needs polarity to activate the pass-thru of DC current to the motor.

If you actually read the post its referring to "bad luck" (the other guy responding to my post) and "cali" (YOU) who are telling me to do two separate things. I understand the purpose of the solenoid as a relay, and am trying to get it to click. I'm just trying to unhack this so I can run the bike, so when I am getting two different pieces of advice from two different people, it's always good to explore the merits of both arguments.

Does that help you understand?

calj737 · « **Reply #49 on:** May 14, 2015, 05:59:49 AM »

and your battery is grounded?

News:

Author Topic: Slow crank. (Read 10349 times)