Author Topic: Ape clutch (Read 7879 times)

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #25 on:** May 09, 2015, 12:41:24 pm »

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #26 on:** May 09, 2015, 03:10:18 pm »

Make sure the steel plates are not warped any, Bill

teebee67 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 10, 2015, 01:27:19 am »

Cheers Bill, I am going to strip it tomorrow and will check for warped plates and also change the springs. Racing Saturday so I will see how it is then.

PeWe · « **Reply #28 on:** May 10, 2015, 09:22:34 am »

This reminds med about my clutch. CycleX fiber plates (6+1 plates). Good grip (no slip +80whp) but sticking and jerky starts. I replaced them today, no road test yet but clutch felt much smoother engagement in garage test, revs, and pulls, close to burnout. I need smooth clutch for street use.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,121490.msg1680822.html#msg1680822

MCRider · « **Reply #29 on:** May 10, 2015, 12:40:26 pm »

Quote from: PeWe on May 10, 2015, 09:22:34 am

This reminds med about my clutch. CycleX fiber plates (6+1 plates). Good grip (no slip +80whp) but sticking and jerky starts. I replaced them today, no road test yet but clutch felt much smoother engagement in garage test, revs, and pulls, close to burnout. I need smooth clutch for street use.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,121490.msg1680822.html#msg1680822

Yeah, from many threads, seems the best set up is new OEM plates, slightly heavier springs (we used to use CB77 springs, shorter and stouter).

Unless you really need more sticky. I' d try to burn up a set of stockers first, if twere me, next time around.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #30 on:** May 12, 2015, 12:21:47 am »

Yo Bear, what do you guys use? Thanks, Bill

bear · « **Reply #31 on:** May 12, 2015, 03:08:56 am »

I reckon I've used them all over the years Billy.

My humble opinion,
you just can't go past the OEM units for competition.

The good quality after market plates, APE, Barnett and the like are tougher.
They wear well and they can certainly take a beating, but you pay for that with a harsher and slightly erratic action.

"Good feel" is a must for repeatable fast starts.

Cheers,
Brian

teebee67 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 12, 2015, 09:15:43 am »

Seems a lot of you guys prefer stock plates. I'm stuck with what I've got for this Saturday's race meeting so will just make sure it is set up as good as I can get it then maybe order new plates. Are you guys saying use stock steels and stock frictions or just stock steels? Reason for asking is I raced 350 Honda K4 s for many years and best set up I found on that was stock steels with Barnet friction plates.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #33 on:** May 12, 2015, 05:21:04 pm »

Not sure what the stock friction's can take. Will keep you posted once back racing, Bill

MRieck · « **Reply #34 on:** May 12, 2015, 07:16:11 pm »

Quote from: teebee67 on May 12, 2015, 09:15:43 am

Seems a lot of you guys prefer stock plates. I'm stuck with what I've got for this Saturday's race meeting so will just make sure it is set up as good as I can get it then maybe order new plates. Are you guys saying use stock steels and stock frictions or just stock steels? Reason for asking is I raced 350 Honda K4 s for many years and best set up I found on that was stock steels with Barnet friction plates.

I have said it before I like the stock plates with Barnett springs......but that's just me.....and a few other guys on the forum.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #35 on:** May 12, 2015, 07:20:43 pm »

Well, I'll just try that setup, Bill

Don R · « **Reply #36 on:** May 12, 2015, 11:05:39 pm »

I wonder if hondamans clutch oiling modification would help? I did the grooves and holes on my 76ss but it was all stock except I shimmed the springs.

PeWe · « **Reply #37 on:** May 13, 2015, 01:02:42 am »

I drilled extra holes in my clutch hub. I think it was 4, one hole in each quarter. Hole only, no additional grooves that Hondaman show in his thread and book. I was worried about too good oil flow. CycleX clutch sticked and was problematic during starts. Last drive with new clutch really relaxing. I hope it will last.

teebee67 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 17, 2015, 12:15:52 pm »

UPDATE:
Fitted a standard clutch on Friday for the race meeting on Saturday (pleased to see Sam Green at the meeting). "Grabbing" problems gone and the clutch behaved well, unfortunately the motor threw a rod through the front of the crankcase - dreading stripping it down. It was fitted with a trick crank and rods so could be an expensive blow up.

PeWe · « **Reply #39 on:** May 17, 2015, 01:05:14 pm »

Really boring with the rod thru the crank case. Crank and cylinder might be damaged too?
Stronger rod that broke?
I take this an encouragement for me to replace my heavy crank and OEM rods with better. Not racing, street use only and most often within 100mph.

My clutch behaves very well, smooth starts (uphills too) and really easy to find neutral hot as cold.

gschuld · « **Reply #40 on:** May 17, 2015, 02:06:12 pm »

Quote from: teebee67 on May 17, 2015, 12:15:52 pm

UPDATE:
"Grabbing" problems gone and the clutch behaved well, unfortunately the motor threw a rod through the front of the crankcase

I'm very sorry to hear that.

Hope you are able to save as much as possible. Good luck with the post mortem teardown.

George

bear · « **Reply #41 on:** May 17, 2015, 04:11:59 pm »

Bugger

Good to here Sammy is out and about though.

Cheers,
Brian

teebee67 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 18, 2015, 12:52:52 am »

PeWe - please be aware that I had a lightened and balanced crankshaft with Super rods fitted but it still went bang!

MRieck · « **Reply #43 on:** May 18, 2015, 04:02:57 am »

Did a rod bolt break?

gschuld · « **Reply #44 on:** May 18, 2015, 04:21:23 am »

Quote from: teebee67 on May 18, 2015, 12:52:52 am

PeWe - please be aware that I had a lightened and balanced crankshaft with Super rods fitted but it still went bang!

These rods right?

http://cbrzone.com/resources/sohc/superrods.jpg
Super Rod heavy duty rods for the Honda sohc 750.

Based on the oem design, they are beefier everywhere. We have seen every attempt to make a stronger oem style rod ever done, and the Super Rod is the best. Perfectly sized big end bores and bronze bushed pin holes. Brightly polished to help prevent oil cling. The strength comes from their bulk. At 372 grams, they are 70 grams heavier than Carrillos, but at a very attractive price.

Now with Super Rods, there is no reason for modified street bikes to chance using stock rods any longer.

#SRH750 $599.00

PeWe · « **Reply #45 on:** May 18, 2015, 05:17:31 am »

Super rod and only 850cc....
OK, Carillo or Falicon Knife rods are stronger, right?
Broken rod will cost much more than 4 new Carillos.

gschuld · « **Reply #46 on:** May 18, 2015, 05:57:21 am »

Keep in mind that a broken rod is not automatically the fault of the rod itself as the cause of failure. For example, a loss or serious restriction of lubrication for a short time will heat up massively and kill about any rod.

George

teebee67 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 18, 2015, 05:58:03 am »

It could've been a rod bolt but I haven't stripped it yet -if it's really bad I might never know what caused the "event" just what the resultant damage is. They were Cycle X Super rods fitted by Cycle X onto a crank which they had lightened and balanced. To be honest I have as yet no idea what actually let go in the 1st instance but, up until now, I can see a snapped rod and have found a piece from the bottom of one of the liners (sleeves).
Your probably right about the Corillos PeWe but I read the description on the Cycle X website and thought they would be ok. It's also very easy to be wise AFTER the event.
I haven't scrimped on anything in this motor, only buying what I thought was good quality parts (remember this is my 1st CB750 and I have not got the experience I have on CB350 K4's). Most of the parts were sourced from the USA which made it harder for me to decide which parts were best suited and, at the end of the day, it may have been something else "letting go" that has damaged the rod. I may know more after the strip down and inspection. I'll keep you all posted.

teebee67 · « **Reply #48 on:** May 18, 2015, 06:03:40 am »

You are right George - I am keeping an open mind on what caused it and, as I said, I may never know the actual cause.

Going in the garage now to get the engine ready for removal by my son (I am too old and knackered to try to lug one of those big heavy lumps out

)

bwaller · « **Reply #49 on:** May 18, 2015, 06:06:35 am »

Regardless, this sucks teebee.

Chin up...Better days ahead.

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Author Topic: Ape clutch (Read 7879 times)