Topic: Logan's Reward - CB500 and CB550 Cafe Projects

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Shorai definitely.  That model is good or the LFX14A5-BS12 -- fits right into the existing holder. 

If size/concealment is your goal, you may go with the smaller A1 form factor (LFX18A1-BS12).  It is pricier, but smaller and has more cold cranking amps and amp hours.  Note: it is OVERKILL for the demands of the 550, but if you want something tiny, it's a great battery.

[Restoration Fan]

So I learned something today:
F model 550 frames are even better suited to make cafe bikes than the K model 500 frames.  The reason?  The F model 550 frame has an extra set of frame tubes that should make mounting the rearsets much easier.  It appears that I may not even have to weld anything onto the frame of the F550 frame to accommodate the rearsets when we get to building Logan's bike.  I'm sure we'll have to make some changes to accept the rear brake spindle, but I'm thinking that will be easier than welding the cross pieces and then fitting the rear brake spindle onto that.

500 K model frame


550 F model frame

[Tews19]

F models have the lower brace for the rear peg but no one makes a direct bolt on rear set for an F. The K model which you have on top has many direct bolt on options. Subscribed and a hell of a dad to do this for your kid!. Check both frames for trueness. Don't make a mistake like I did. Paid 300 to get it powder coated with a bunch of other parts only to find out the frame was garbage.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

1977-78 550K frames have the same mounts, too.

[Tews19]

Cb750 is correct about the 77-78 frames. Also as he said not much of a need to cut the frame.

[callmejarob]

You went all in did you!?  I think Bill is rubbing off on you!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

They definitely rolled in heavy.  Smart strategy though.

[Restoration Fan]

F models have the lower brace for the rear peg but no one makes a direct bolt on rear set for an F. The K model which you have on top has many direct bolt on options. Subscribed and a hell of a dad to do this for your kid!. Check both frames for trueness. Don't make a mistake like I did. Paid 300 to get it powder coated with a bunch of other parts only to find out the frame was garbage.

Thanks for the advice.  And I figure it's the least I can do for him after all the time he put into my bike.
When you say check for trueness, do you mean alignment or rust or something else? 

[AintNoEasyWay]

You may have mentioned it, but I didn't see it. What shocks do you plan to use?

[Restoration Fan]

On Stella, I'm running the original shocks that were on it.  I've yet to bottom it out so I don't know if they're crap or not. 

On the 500, I'm also going back with the shocks that were on the 550 frame after soaking them in Metal Rescue to clean off the little bit of surface rust that's on them.  That's just purely from a money standpoint though since I intend to flip that bike.

On Logan's 550, I will probably put a good set on it.  Possibly Fox or Ohlins...some of it will be determined by the look as well as the ride quality.

[Restoration Fan]

Hagons, Ikons or Fox. He's got a long way to go before he can ride the difference to warrant a pair of Ohlins... YSS also makes a very good shock/value. Me, I'd go Fox or YSS on a custom sporty ride.

I saw Fox shocks on Devin's sites but I haven't seen YSS ones that I can remember.  Where do you get those?

[oldhatt45]

Ron,

I just got my brandy new Ikon shocks today.  I don't know what your price range is, but, if these Ikon's are as good as my OLD Koni shocks, and you are looking in the $400 - $500 range then Ikon's should be on your list.

Check my build thread for some info on the new Ikon's. 

Charlie

[Restoration Fan]

Charlie,
Thanks for the tip.  I already saw those in your build thread!

I'm willing to spend cash if I need to for the shocks.  I want to keep it less than 4 digits but I'm willing to spend for quality but I also want it to look good.  I was looking at the YSS shocks earlier with the gas reservoirs.  I think that look will fit in well with what we're wanting to do on Logan's bike.  And since I didn't skimp on purchasing stuff for my bike, I'm going to spend some on his as well. 

Besides, I think I got enough parts that I'll be able to sell a fair amount and recoup some of my investment. 

[oldhatt45]

Ron,

Cool!  Just don't skimp on keeping the rubber on the road.   

As Hondaman said in his book, the rake and trail on the SOHC 4's affected the handling a LOT, so I just wanted to make sure that Logan is safe!!! 

Oh, and is the number 99 going on Logan's bike somewhere???   

Charlie

[Stev-o]

F models have the lower brace for the rear peg but no one makes a direct bolt on rear set for an F. The K model which you have on top has many direct bolt on options. Subscribed and a hell of a dad to do this for your kid!. Check both frames for trueness. Don't make a mistake like I did. Paid 300 to get it powder coated with a bunch of other parts only to find out the frame was garbage.

When you say check for trueness, do you mean alignment or rust or something else? 

Checking for trueness means checking that the frame is not bent [from a possible accident]

[AintNoEasyWay]

Ron, sounds good on the shocks. You planning on using an M unit? Lots of question because I'm just curious how far you plan to go in customizing/upgrading.

[Restoration Fan]

Oh, and is the number 99 going on Logan's bike somewhere???   

You figured out the surprise!  It is indeed going to have #99 on it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

A Lorenzo fan?? A great rider but man that guy needs to loosen up!

[Restoration Fan]

Ron, sounds good on the shocks. You planning on using an M unit? Lots of question because I'm just curious how far you plan to go in customizing/upgrading.

For Logan's bike, I'm thinking M-Unit and M-Button with the triple tree that Cal linked before in the thread.


My only concern is that I REALLY like the CognitoMoto speedometer with integrated tach.  But since it's going to be his bike, I'm going to let him choose the gauge setup.

[Restoration Fan]

A Lorenzo fan?? A great rider but man that guy needs to loosen up!

If you're referring to the #99, he's getting that number because that was the grade he received on his senior project for Stella.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The Speedhut meter is nice looking, but I think you might want the predominant meter to be the tachometer rather than the speedo -- which can be on the digital readout. 

Here's another option from Koso.

http://kosonorthamerica.com/product/tnt-01-multifunctions-bf-bc/

[Restoration Fan]

cal,
Thank you.  I'm glad you posted this before I started buying these things because that's information I didn't know.

Have you tried the mBlaze Ice before?  If so, are they as bright as the mBlaze units you show?  I like the look of them and they're about half the cost of the mBlaze Cones and mBlaze Discs as well?



For his senior trip, Kelli's taking Logan with her on one of her openings in Europe and they're planning to hit Germany.  I'm wondering if it's worth purchasing the motoGadget stuff directly from them in Germany and having it delivered to the hotel there in Germany?  Then Logan could bring the stuff home with him in his suitcase.

[Maurice]

For Logan's bike, I'm thinking M-Unit and M-Button with the triple tree that Cal linked before in the thread.

Ron - I'd skip the m-button if he's going to run clip-ons. The button is well suited to collect all the signal wires from bars but when you pull signal wires from clip-ons, you have to do a fair amount of crossover wiring, which defeats the tidy nature of the m-button. Instead, with clip-ons I just run all input wires directly into the m-unit.

Spend your money on M-Switches and perhaps an M-Lock. The 3-button M-switches are very nice, compact, and allow infinite flexibility in their "programming". The M-Lock is an RFID keyless system from MotoGadget and alleviates a key. A discreetly placed sensor allows unlocking and locking of the bikes electrical system.

Here's a few snapshots of recently installed MotoGadget items on some of Devin's bikes I did for him.

Last thing I'd offer, is the M-Blaze discs for bar end indicators. They're wicked bright, super clean, but pricey  And, you'd need to heavily consider that if Logan were to drop the bike or it be knocked over, the light would suffer instantly... I run these on 2 of my bikes, and with them, I've eliminated rear indicators as they are outside my body line, and visible from front and rear.

Just want to say, the finish on that frame looks phenomenal.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Tons of awesome info, calj!!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

cal,
Thank you.  I'm glad you posted this before I started buying these things because that's information I didn't know.

Have you tried the mBlaze Ice before?  If so, are they as bright as the mBlaze units you show?  I like the look of them and they're about half the cost of the mBlaze Cones and mBlaze Discs as well?



For his senior trip, Kelli's taking Logan with her on one of her openings in Europe and they're planning to hit Germany.  I'm wondering if it's worth purchasing the motoGadget stuff directly from them in Germany and having it delivered to the hotel there in Germany?  Then Logan could bring the stuff home with him in his suitcase.

I'd go with the Blaze discs if you are thinking of bar-end units.  The idea of the blinkers sticking out a few inches beyond the bars makes me think they will be prone to breakage if the bike is dropped or you are lane-splitting too close to a vehicle.  Dropping a bike is one of those embarrassing things that happens to many many junior riders (and some experienced ones, too).