Topic: Logan's Reward - CB500 and CB550 Cafe Projects

[Restoration Fan]

A Lorenzo fan?? A great rider but man that guy needs to loosen up!

If you're referring to the #99, he's getting that number because that was the grade he received on his senior project for Stella.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The Speedhut meter is nice looking, but I think you might want the predominant meter to be the tachometer rather than the speedo -- which can be on the digital readout. 

Here's another option from Koso.

http://kosonorthamerica.com/product/tnt-01-multifunctions-bf-bc/

[calj737]

For Logan's bike, I'm thinking M-Unit and M-Button with the triple tree that Cal linked before in the thread.

Ron - I'd skip the m-button if he's going to run clip-ons. The button is well suited to collect all the signal wires from bars but when you pull signal wires from clip-ons, you have to do a fair amount of crossover wiring, which defeats the tidy nature of the m-button. Instead, with clip-ons I just run all input wires directly into the m-unit.

Spend your money on M-Switches and perhaps an M-Lock. The 3-button M-switches are very nice, compact, and allow infinite flexibility in their "programming". The M-Lock is an RFID keyless system from MotoGadget and alleviates a key. A discreetly placed sensor allows unlocking and locking of the bikes electrical system.

Here's a few snapshots of recently installed MotoGadget items on some of Devin's bikes I did for him.

Last thing I'd offer, is the M-Blaze discs for bar end indicators. They're wicked bright, super clean, but pricey  And, you'd need to heavily consider that if Logan were to drop the bike or it be knocked over, the light would suffer instantly... I run these on 2 of my bikes, and with them, I've eliminated rear indicators as they are outside my body line, and visible from front and rear.

[Restoration Fan]

cal,
Thank you.  I'm glad you posted this before I started buying these things because that's information I didn't know.

Have you tried the mBlaze Ice before?  If so, are they as bright as the mBlaze units you show?  I like the look of them and they're about half the cost of the mBlaze Cones and mBlaze Discs as well?



For his senior trip, Kelli's taking Logan with her on one of her openings in Europe and they're planning to hit Germany.  I'm wondering if it's worth purchasing the motoGadget stuff directly from them in Germany and having it delivered to the hotel there in Germany?  Then Logan could bring the stuff home with him in his suitcase.

[calj737]

I've not used those, but I'd suspect they would be even more susceptible to damage from a fall. As for price, you'd have to consider exchange rates on the euro as well. In Germany, they might add a VAT for local purchase too?

A word about the triple tree from Cognito with the integrated instrumentation lights: each of the idiot indicators is an LED with 2 wires per light, 10 wires total. It's a heap of wiring to arrange. Add to that, the gauge itself has wiring for: power, ground, speed, revs, and menu. Fortunately, all these wires are very small gauge (26awg) so they can be cleanly shrouded in a single sleeve.

The gauge has a bar scale tach at the top of the display that's always on and is easily calibrated. The speed uses a magnetic sensor that I locate opposite the front sprocket and install a magnetic-headed bolt on the sprocket. Makes for a super clean and accurate read/install. Then the speedo wiring joins the Neutral and Oil wires to run up to the top clamp (separated from stator plug).

[Maurice]

For Logan's bike, I'm thinking M-Unit and M-Button with the triple tree that Cal linked before in the thread.

Ron - I'd skip the m-button if he's going to run clip-ons. The button is well suited to collect all the signal wires from bars but when you pull signal wires from clip-ons, you have to do a fair amount of crossover wiring, which defeats the tidy nature of the m-button. Instead, with clip-ons I just run all input wires directly into the m-unit.

Spend your money on M-Switches and perhaps an M-Lock. The 3-button M-switches are very nice, compact, and allow infinite flexibility in their "programming". The M-Lock is an RFID keyless system from MotoGadget and alleviates a key. A discreetly placed sensor allows unlocking and locking of the bikes electrical system.

Here's a few snapshots of recently installed MotoGadget items on some of Devin's bikes I did for him.

Last thing I'd offer, is the M-Blaze discs for bar end indicators. They're wicked bright, super clean, but pricey  And, you'd need to heavily consider that if Logan were to drop the bike or it be knocked over, the light would suffer instantly... I run these on 2 of my bikes, and with them, I've eliminated rear indicators as they are outside my body line, and visible from front and rear.

Just want to say, the finish on that frame looks phenomenal.

[AintNoEasyWay]

Tons of awesome info, calj!!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

cal,
Thank you.  I'm glad you posted this before I started buying these things because that's information I didn't know.

Have you tried the mBlaze Ice before?  If so, are they as bright as the mBlaze units you show?  I like the look of them and they're about half the cost of the mBlaze Cones and mBlaze Discs as well?



For his senior trip, Kelli's taking Logan with her on one of her openings in Europe and they're planning to hit Germany.  I'm wondering if it's worth purchasing the motoGadget stuff directly from them in Germany and having it delivered to the hotel there in Germany?  Then Logan could bring the stuff home with him in his suitcase.

I'd go with the Blaze discs if you are thinking of bar-end units.  The idea of the blinkers sticking out a few inches beyond the bars makes me think they will be prone to breakage if the bike is dropped or you are lane-splitting too close to a vehicle.  Dropping a bike is one of those embarrassing things that happens to many many junior riders (and some experienced ones, too). 

[callmejarob]

+1 on the Blaze Discs, thats what Ill be using too!  My electronic setup is pretty much identical to what cal posted above.

[Maurice]

What about mirrors? Can you still use bar-end mirrors with this type of blinker?

IMO under-bar mirrors do not cut it at all, I've tried.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I bought a pair of the Blaze discs but I'm not sure if I will use them on my 750 or another project, since I already have some Joker signals and Rizoma bar-ends for the 750.  And, I do not think you can use bar-end mirrors with the Blaze signals.

[Maurice]

What kind of mirrors do you use? This is for my SR500 that currently has some antlers on it, and I'm sure at some point Ron will be looking for some too.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

What kind of mirrors do you use? This is for my SR500 that currently has some antlers on it, and I'm sure at some point Ron will be looking for some too.

Assuming your questions was to me, I am using Rizoma Reverse Retro mirrors and bar-ends.

[Maurice]

What kind of mirrors do you use? This is for my SR500 that currently has some antlers on it, and I'm sure at some point Ron will be looking for some too.

Assuming your questions was to me, I am using Rizoma Reverse Retro mirrors and bar-ends.

Yes the question was for you.

What's a good mirror solution for Ron should he go with the blaze discs?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

What kind of mirrors do you use? This is for my SR500 that currently has some antlers on it, and I'm sure at some point Ron will be looking for some too.

Assuming your questions was to me, I am using Rizoma Reverse Retro mirrors and bar-ends.

Yes the question was for you.

What's a good mirror solution for Ron should he go with the blaze discs?

I think he will need to go with something that attaches to the bar or clip-on (versus the bar end).  I just replaced my stock clutch lever with a Pro-Taper (with ball bearing hinge) for smoother pull.  To fit the new clutch perch, I had to cut the mirror mount point off the left switchblock. 



I just ordered an Emgo mount for my mirror.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CKFKI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am installing the new stand-alone mount at the inner side of the bars.  The mirror is offset to the outside, hopefully enough see past my shoulder.

[calj737]

you can use a bar-end style of mirror, but you'll need one that clamps to the threaded rod. Instead, clamp the mirror to the end of the bar, then install the m-blaze. (Install grips before mirror and Blaze units).

I detest under bar mirrors as they pick up too much light from following cars at night. Better to see the top of the following car than the bumper... Of course, a quality bar mount/perch type mirror is a great choice too. A super bike or streetifighter look  I've got a set of Rizomas picked out for my BMW that will use a traditional perch mount.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

you can use a bar-end style of mirror, but you'll need one that clamps to the threaded rod. Instead, clamp the mirror to the end of the bar, then install the m-blaze. (Install grips before mirror and Blaze units).

I detest under bar mirrors as they pick up too much light from following cars at night. Better to see the top of the following car than the bumper... Of course, a quality bar mount/perch type mirror is a great choice too. A super bike or streetifighter look  I've got a set of Rizomas picked out for my BMW that will use a traditional perch mount.

My Black 750 has the Rizoma Reverse Retro style mirrors mounted at the end of the bar with the mirrors on the top.  They work ok, but tend to get moved inadvertently.  I personally prefer a perch mount so your hands do not bump the mirror.

[Restoration Fan]

Logan graduates next week and between preparing for that, work and various other projects, I haven't had a lot of time to put on the 500 yet.  I do have the frame stripped down and ready for the engine...which I've been slowly but steadily prepping for paint.  I probably have another 5 or 6 hours of sanding and prepping to have it ready for painting.

But today I spent the afternoon helping Bill Benton unload his truckload-o-750's from his California trip.  Three drag bikes, 11 750's (with at least 3 K0's that I counted but I was too busy helping unload stuff to notice exactly how many were in there).

[AintNoEasyWay]

Haha must have been quite a trip! 11 750's. That's crazy.

[Tews19]

Lol, 11 is greedy! Bill shame on you! 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Bill must have a compound!

[Restoration Fan]

Lol, 11 is greedy! Bill shame on you! 

Well, truth be told, he left 3 frames with engines in them in Arizona with a buddy because he didn't have room for them once he put the 3 drag bikes on the truck as well. 

Altogether now?  I'd say he probably has 30 or more 750's around and that's just ones with frames.  If you count engines as well, he's got way more.  Great dude and an incredible resource for these SOHC's.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Damn!!  Too bad he's not on my side of the country!

[Stev-o]

Lol, 11 is greedy! Bill shame on you! 

Shame?  No.   We are just jealous. 

[calj737]

Ron - since you've been so tolerant of others opining about how you should build Logan's Reward, I'd offer this advice:

I don't like clip-on bars for new riders. I love inverted forks, and there's not a reason in the world I wouldn't use them on his bike, especially since he wants something a tad custom and modern with vintage soul. Instead, I would use Superbike Bars installed on rises in the top clamp. You can choose from a variety of lift heights to accommodate the exact posture and clearance of the tank too.

The reason I am strong on SBB for new riders is the "posture" advantages. Bars above the clamp position the riders eyes and shoulders more upright, weight into his hips. This is critical for best handling and control, and visibility. He can still collapse his elbows and lean forward without moving the weight to his wrists.

It is also a huge advantage in control to move his feet back a bit. Picture this geometry:
Spine angle and shin angle being parallel.
Ankle positioned midway between knee and hip.
Shoulders positioned directly above ankle.

If you can achieve this ergonomic fit, Logan (or you) will find his thighs in near perfect contact with the tank, sitting comfortably in his hips, and neutral weight on his wrists. Eyes are up, and high, and his shoulders are relaxed. There's been heaps of recent development into the advantages of this posture which is why, so many new, modern Streetfighter/Naked/Hooligan bikes use this seating geometry. It does make a significant difference in control and comfort.

We all like the look and notion of crouched over, hugging a tank, sliding around corners on our knees like Rossi, but really, it's not happening on the street, so why use that geometry when riding? Plus, it limits his perception and visibility in traffic.

Ive been working over my 20/21 year old to adopt this exact change to his planned 500 bike (the motor that came home to roost project). I'm making headway, but miles to go before I sleep... And he has almost 5 years of riding experience in short stints, but not nearly enough to pilot a supersport on the street.

(Okay confession time: another reason for urging the change to my sons bike is, I can't rider a 500 with clip-ons beyond the corner. I've got ortho damage to my wrist and it causes me tremendous discomfort quickly. And I'd really like to ride his bike some too. But the above reasons are the legitimate force behind my urgings).

If you do go that route, there's still a great potion from MotoGadget for a combo cluster with instrumentation. This a brand new unit and is worth consideration for the ultra clean and tidy look, without sacrificing features or functions.