Topic: Headlight conversion confusion - educate me

[Chachi]

First off, I've PM'd some other members... so if you're one of them don't think I don't appreciate or agree with what you've told me, I just want to open this up so I can fully understand my options. Second, if there are some existing threads on this, feel free to point me there. I've probably read them, but I will again if needed.

I have a 750 K3 with sealed beam (high beam not working). I want to 'upgrade' to something brighter. May eventually do Hondaman relays, but I think I'm going to start with converting (H4?). Debating Hella vs. Bosch vs. Candlepower. All three have 7" replacements with H4 bulb (60/55 I guess) which I think all fit/work? Is the Candlepower the only moto-specific of those three? Is H4 the bulb type to go for or something else? Anything to note with charging system? I will be adding LED taillight and turn signal bulbs with updated flasher. Other than that everything else is stock (using Hondaman blade fuse kit).

Maybe I fully understand the conversion already, but I'm throwing this out for feedback in case I don't. And I guess I'm looking for brand recommendations (experience) of the three - Hella, Bosch, Candlepower. Thanks.

[70CB750]

I dont think you will find a big difference between those headlights.

On the other hand, H4 bulb can and will make a difference in light and longevity.

I am very happy with Philips MotoVision bulb.

[flybox1]

I did this conversion last year. lamp mfr will not matter although beam pattern might differ between brands.
Its a 20 minute job to disassemble the headlight housing, and install the new lamp.
I found and use a 35/35w H4 bulb.  Low wattage, and still brighter than sealed OEM.

This is what I ordered. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Round-Motorcycle-Headlight-with-Free-H4-LED-Bulb-/161649694534?hash=item25a3129746&vxp=mtr

[Bodi]

Car lamp H4 beam patterns go up on the "shoulder" side, so if you are in the USA and get one made for UK riders it will be blinding oncoming traffic. Bike specific units have different patterns but the ones I've used also rise on one side.
A 750 should have enough alternator power for a standard 55/60W H4 lamp. The 35/35W scooter lamp is an option, it will still give much better road illumination than the OEM sealed beam.

[Duke McDukiedook]

I did this conversion last year. lamp mfr will not matter although beam pattern might differ between brands.
Its a 20 minute job to disassemble the headlight housing, and install the new lamp.
I found and use a 35/35w H4 bulb.  Low wattage, and still brighter than sealed OEM.

What Flybox said and get the US model.

[Grinnin]

I have the reflector by Candlepower in my 750 K5.  I put it there because it works so well in my CX500D.

The stock headlight on the CX500D in particular had a gap between low beam and high beam. If I adjusted the high beam to barely skim the road in the distance then the low beam showed a spot not far in front of the bike.  If I had the low beam lighting farther ahead then the high beam lit the trees and no road at all.

The Candlepower reflector closed the gap.  The low beam and high beam are certainly different, but they're both useful.

I don't recall if I had the same trouble with the 750 K5, but I wanted the H4 bulb for touring.

[Muckinfuss]

I don't use H4 halogens at all any longer.  I've switched to the LED H4 and use a P115W-LED daytime modulator from Kisan.  The LED is 6Kelvin bright white, lasts forever and easier on the wallet than HID.  Halogen looks yellow after using the LED.  The daytime modulator is just good sense in my mind.  Cars actually pay attention.  EDIT:  I forgot to mention the LED conversion bulb is the Speedmetal from Cycle Gear.

[Duanob]

Car lamp H4 beam patterns go up on the "shoulder" side, so if you are in the USA and get one made for UK riders it will be blinding oncoming traffic. Bike specific units have different patterns but the ones I've used also rise on one side.
A 750 should have enough alternator power for a standard 55/60W H4 lamp. The 35/35W scooter lamp is an option, it will still give much better road illumination than the OEM sealed beam.

I did the same as Flybox, the 35W/35 H4. They do make a motorcycle specific lamp housing. Just make sure that's what you are buying. If you want more light then it takes 5 minutes to swap in a bigger bulb.

[Chachi]

Thanks for replies. So if I'm debating the three brands (Hella, Bosch, Candlepower)... not a huge difference, but the Candlepower is the only one labeled moto-specific of the three? But lots of folks use the others with no issues?

[flybox1]

yes, they are installed with no problems.  just pay attention to beam direction.

[Gman]

I just bought a reflector w/glass lens that takes H4 bulbs on Amazon - nice quality.  $18. 

http://www.amazon.com/Round-Motorcycle-Headlights-Semi-Sealed-H6014/dp/B00HK0SRWG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1429151954&sr=8-4&keywords=7+inch+headlight+genssi

Found an LED bulb from China that is 18W/24W (6000K/white) - $24 and I probably could have found it for $5 less.   

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6552782889.html?orderId=66343352358791

Looks same as the one on Cognito Moto, but slightly lower lumen output (they charge $65).   

http://cognitomoto.com/collections/lighting/products/h7-led

So, I have an LED conversion for $40 with lower power draw and better lighting.  Shouldn't need to replace the bulb for a looooooong time, and if I ever do, it's a 5 minute unplug and replug affair.   

Peace,
G

[Lostboy Steve]

I just bought a reflector w/glass lens that takes H4 bulbs on Amazon - nice quality.  $18. 

http://www.amazon.com/Round-Motorcycle-Headlights-Semi-Sealed-H6014/dp/B00HK0SRWG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1429151954&sr=8-4&keywords=7+inch+headlight+genssi

Found an LED bulb from China that is 18W/24W (6000K/white) - $24 and I probably could have found it for $5 less.   

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6552782889.html?orderId=66343352358791

Looks same as the one on Cognito Moto, but slightly lower lumen output (they charge $65).   

http://cognitomoto.com/collections/lighting/products/h7-led

So, I have an LED conversion for $40 with lower power draw and better lighting.  Shouldn't need to replace the bulb for a looooooong time, and if I ever do, it's a 5 minute unplug and replug affair.   

Peace,
G

lol this is exactly what I was planning months ago but I had my doubts so I never did it.  I was looking at the same lense and everything. Does it really work well at night? And No problems with the little heatsink on the bulb and all the wiring in the bucket?

[Gman]

Ironically, I don't know how well it works.  All the individual components work well and they all fit together perfectly.  However, b/c I am doing a few other things (new rear fender w/brakelight and signals) and don't have the battery in my bike for the season yet, I haven't fired it up and can't honestly say how it will work in the real world.  The only possible issue is the back of the LED in the headlight bucket, but if CognitoMoto's will work, I can't imagine any different outcome.  Once I field test, I can fill people in.  Hopefully soon!

G

[Lostboy Steve]

Cool let us know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Powderman]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the pattern/distance of light caused by the lens backing and not the bulb itself?
Wouldn't a 35/35 H4 bulb have the same brightness for high beam and low beam? A 60/55H4 puts out 60 watts on high and 55 on low.
Actually I think the low beam is 60 watts and the high beam adds another 55 watts.

[Bodi]

The pattern is produced by the reflector and lens in an H4 unit. The lamp filaments' sizes and positions relative to the bulb base are critical to the beam pattern and tightly specified: that's why using an LED or HID replacement lamp module make any H4 headlight "illegal" - no longer DOT certified and thus not acceptable on public US highways.
The distance illuminated depend on the housing and lamp. The housing projects a pattern that should put low beam light out to the horizon. The bulb provides the light and a brighter bulb will do better.
The wattage numbers are low beam/high beam.
They are not designed to have low and high beam filaments on together, they will overheat. The halide cycle that replates evaporated filament metal back onto the filament only works over a certain temperature range.

[Powderman]

The pattern is produced by the reflector and lens in an H4 unit. The lamp filaments' sizes and positions relative to the bulb base are critical to the beam pattern and tightly specified: that's why using an LED or HID replacement lamp module make any H4 headlight "illegal" - no longer DOT certified and thus not acceptable on public US highways.
The distance illuminated depend on the housing and lamp. The housing projects a pattern that should put low beam light out to the horizon. The bulb provides the light and a brighter bulb will do better.
The wattage numbers are low beam/high beam.
They are not designed to have low and high beam filaments on together, they will overheat. The halide cycle that replates evaporated filament metal back onto the filament only works over a certain temperature range.

It stumps me then why the low beam would draw more wattage than the high beam. The article I read from Eiko says the primary filament (60) should last 150hrs and the secondary filament (55) should last 300hrs. And what difference on hi or low does a 35/35 make?

[flybox1]

The pattern is produced by the reflector and lens in an H4 unit. The lamp filaments' sizes and positions relative to the bulb base are critical to the beam pattern and tightly specified: that's why using an LED or HID replacement lamp module make any H4 headlight "illegal" - no longer DOT certified and thus not acceptable on public US highways.

Choose an H4 HID bulb with a built-in shield to maintain the lower light spread. 

[Chachi]

I've still been on the fence with what to order. Been debating the Candlepower H4 vs. Hella H4. I think I may go Hella. I spoke with them today to get clarification as they have two to choose from -- 002395301 and 002395991. The 301 is SAE/DOT and the 991 is ECE. The rep I talked to said both are fine -- and they are universal left or right lights -- but go ECE for motorcycle application as it has better dispersion than the SAE/DOT.

http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/products/auxiliary-lamps/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/

http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/products/auxiliary-lamps/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/vision-plus-7in-conversion-headlamp/

[Bodi]

The primary beam is the high beam. The higher wattage filament is the high beam.

[Powderman]

The primary beam is the high beam. The higher wattage filament is the high beam.

On the Eiko bulbs why would the primary last twice as long as the secondary if it is used only half the time if it is the high beam?

[Rgconner]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the pattern/distance of light caused by the lens backing and not the bulb itself?
Wouldn't a 35/35 H4 bulb have the same brightness for high beam and low beam? A 60/55H4 puts out 60 watts on high and 55 on low.
Actually I think the low beam is 60 watts and the high beam adds another 55 watts.

Not exactly wrong but...

with LEDs, there is more than one light emitter, and it is not giving a full 360 globe of light like a filament will.

So the light gets scattered by the reflector because it is coming from a different points inside the headlamp.

Here is my 75 550K with a 3800 lumen H4 bulb from Cyclops Adventure.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1156/52044/Cyclops-Adventure-Sports-LED-Headlight-Bulb-H4